Does Rti Carry Moroccan Oil?

This is really helpful! Thanks! Avon has one in the next campaign book (#3 for 2023) and since I try to support a friend’s small business, I was looking for some info about how to use them. Your article is great. When the lavender oil that comes with the diffuser is used up, can I reuse the diffuser by putting more scented oil in it? Will I need to find more reeds? What to do with the original reeds — can they continue to be used with the same or a similar fragrance. Any help you can give will be so appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, thanks for sharing this article! I’ve bought many a diffuser but not really known how to get them to smell. Usually I pop the sticks in a hope for the best! I never knew you had to rotate them 😊 I bought three yesterday and have them in different rooms, same scent too. I thought the scent would come through straight away and now thanks to you and this wonderful informative article I’ve finally learned how they work lol. Thank you once again ❤ sending you hugs from London UK ❤👍🏻

omg the little top thing was so hard to get out i had to use the long end of a nail clipper to get it out and pull it with all my might lol. i bought a reed diffuser from target, the scent is fig and bergamot and it looks like a new item. can we throw the plastic top or keep it ? i got this on my birthday xD

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A year ago I took my 2017 Camry SE to a Best Auto, who told me I had a lot of carbon buildup, so he did an “air induction service” for $250. Right after, I realized my gas mileage wasn’t any better, so took it for an oil change at Grease Monkey, who told me I had a lot of carbon buildup. They did an IV drip thing while my engine ran, and I’ll bet I still have a lot of carbon buildup. I only get 15 miles to the gallon, and have to fill up every 4 days. I’ve done STP, Gum Out, Sea foam, Lucas, changed the spark plugs, NOTHING HELPS. I’m going to trade it in on a hybrid.

I remember as a kid,dad and mom blowing out our Oldsmobile 98,after driving all winter,those engines used leaded gasoline,they would carbon up so bad,it was almost unreal Scotty!!. Dad would wait for a real clear day with no snow on the roads,on the weekend of coarse,and open up the double-pumper 4-bbl.carb.,that car looked like a semi-truck with all the black smoke pouring out of the dual-exhaust system,after about 2-3 miles,the black smoke was completely gone,that V-8 had tons of power and better fuel mileage too.(fuel mileage wasn’t an issue in 1955)

I have always been very picky about my engines. And, I clean the crap out of them inside and out. I have a BMW 525i so, It has A LOT of plastic in the engine compartment. I clean the engine compartment so well, you can eat off the engine. And, I treat the plastic with Armor All and let it sit for several hours after before I start it back up. With 191K miles, we’re still going strong.

Thanks for the article as always! 1). As someone mentioned, I would send a camera down the intake manifold if you can to see the TOP of the valves…that’s where the most carbon build up seems to happen in GDIs (or you’ll see more clearly how seriously it is). 2). Question: I’ve used the CRC GDI intake cleaner but like Scotty, some say chunks could come off, hurt the cylinder, turbo, or CAT. Any opinions or experience?

I have a 2013 Kia Optima EX with GDI 2.4L engine with127,000 miles on it. I’m the original owner and I’ve always been diligent about its maintenance. I’ve never had the carbon cleaned. I saw your other article on cleaning the carbon from a GDI engine. Should I have it done per the machine you recommend in this article, or should I get a can of Lucas GDI Deep Clean like you did in the other article?

— Well the majority of my vehicles are ported. Just a half can of Seafoam in the tank, keep up on the maintenance and clear their throats every once in awhile. I run catch cans on the dirty side, and breathers on the clean side of most of my vehicles. In the rust belt. Rust is the thing, but humidity will get you too.

As I moved back to the UK I bought from a friend a 149000 mile 1.5dci Nissan Qashqai (so diesel), I’ve been perusal a hell of a lot of articles related to doing such preventative maintenance because I’ll need this car for the next 2 years without anything major breaking (poor student life) and quite a few miles to do during this interval. I’d rather spend on prevention what I can, instead of paying more for God knows what repairs and have downtime with the car that I require a car to commute to

South koreans love carbon cleaning. Not because we are stupid but because 80% of the cars on the road is hyundai or kia and almost all of those hyundais and kias have gdi engines. It is such a common maintenece that carbon cleaning is bulit into the regular maintanence routine of a lot of mechanic shops.

I brought a 2008 van in 2014.. Drove it round town mostly with a few 20mile trips doing 50-70mph mostly due to speed restrictions.. my friend drove it on a 100mile trip doing mostly 80mph.. when I got back behind the wheel the next day it felt like it had an overhaul.. Was so much more responsive on the throttle so a good run can do wonders for vehicles that has just been driven round town slowly

Thanks for your information . I was thinking of taking my 2016 Mahindra KUV100 CRDI, Diesel powered car for carbon cleaning . I Drop that plan now !!! But recent days in my country (India) many small mechanics have starting making a business of doing carbon cleaning by promising lot of things. anyways.. u r doing good job for the Global people thru your articles. kudos.

I love your articles and advise but I don’t agree with letting the outside of the engine get dirty. My step father taught me how to fix cars as soon as I could reach into the engine bay, every inch of his engine bay was clean enough to eat off. He said dirt and dust around the belts and everything else was bad, and with a clean engine you can spot a leak easier. 35 years later I still clean my engine bay every 2nd to 3rd car wash, though it’s not as easy anymore with everything jammed in so tight now days. It also means you inspect everything else as well and stay on top of any potential problems.

Scotty, I have to wonder how you were able to look at the back side of the valves from the spark plug hole. This would only reveal if there is carbon buildup on your piston head or cylinder walls. I suspect going through the intake manifold would allow me to see the backside of my valves of my 08 VW BPY FSI engine.

Hey Scotty, Tremendous knowledge in your articles. I live in Australia and it’s been a while since I haven’t seen and met my dad for a while. He’s overseas and don’t think we can meet anytime near. But every time I see your articles, it reminds me of my dad. He worked so hard and has tremendous knowledge of cars. He lived through when the internet was not there so he isn’t social media savvy but just a shout out to you for making the articles fun and engaging. My father will always put a smile on his face and do all fixes like it’s good food. Keep helping and have fun !!!

After some research – and a little experience – my conclusion is that the best approach to a dirty engine is to do nothing out of the ordinary. If an engine has sludge in the valve cover area, accelerate the oil change interval. If an engine has carbon, run some premium gas and drive it somewhere. The Alamo. Key West. The coast. The mountains. Wrigley Field. Anywhere. The carbon will burn out. That’s what carbon does. It’s carbon. Back in the 70s, I had a 390 Ford which smoked. I did the old backyard ring and valve job on it. Totally unnecessary. If I had gone on a long trip, it would have burned the carbon out of the stuck rings and I would have been just as well off. Maybe better. Fast forward to recent years. I bought a 2000 4cyl Camry. I found out the valve cover area was loaded with some kind of mysterious grit. Not exactly sludge and not metal either. I figured out eventually that it was crystallized synthetic oil. Synthetic oil crystallization is a not very common condition which occurs when a vehicle is using synthetic oil and never is driven far enough to get warmed up. Over a period of time, the crystallization dissolved out. I removed some of it but decided that it was best to not stir it up and perhaps end up with clogged oil passages. The vehicle had been owned by an elderly man who for years probably drove it only 15 miles a week. I think his son put Mobil 1 or some such in there and left it in for years. Yuck.

In the 1950’s and 60’s American made cars had a ‘dump tube’… allowing the bottom of the crank case to ‘vent’ to atmosphere. By adding a PCV and “VACUUM” to that system, you are effective creating a ‘mist’ from the oil in your engine… That misted oil then is introduced to your engine, intake. The bottom end of your crank case only produces about 2 pounds of pressure… Your vacuum system produces up to 10-15 pounds at times… So.. you’re ‘sucking 6-8 times the volume of what is necessary to simply “VENT” your lower crank case. Plug, by pass your PCV system and just leave a ‘vent’ tube for your lower crank case to equalize that pressure. once you STOP introducing oily sludge into your intake system the problem will go away.

I had my dealership clean the valves cleaned with walnut shells. My car is a 2010 VW CC with 103K miles. My car had so much carbon build up it was misfiring and the opening at the intake was closed by about 50%. After it was cleaned and the oil changed. My car is easily getting 11 to12 mpg more than before. It really works.

Hey Scotty, I watched your throttle and IAC cleaning article this week. So I decided to clean my throttle on my 1999 Solara V6. I sprayed the crap out of the throttle and the IAC and got it clean as a bone. Turn the engine over, and it stopped turning. I Hydro locked the engine with cleaning solvent. I pulled the front three spark plugs, and sucked out about 80 mL of fluid with a syringe and tube. I was then able to get the engine to crank. I threw the spark plugs back in and now it runs fine. I guess I didn’t follow your directions very well ha ha.

Scotty, love the articles. What about adding seafoam through the brake booster vacuum intake, won’t it help remove carbon? It seemed to work on my lawn mower and chevrolet pretty well. It wasnt really bad buildup, but it definately seemed to do the trick. I checked with an endoscope it looked a lot better and it was a pretty cheap fix. Am I mistaken, could I have done damage?

Another great article!! I always enjoy them and learn something. I have question; With the way the new diesel engines in trucks and heavy duty trucks are made/setup with all the emission stuff on them I’ve seen that after about 5,000 miles or so they start too loose fuel mileage because the exhaust is ran through the intact before it is finally let out of the vehicle and it causes a lot of carbon build up. Is having the engine cleaned with one of those water carbon cleaning machines a good idea? If not, what do you recommend to maintain fuel mileage?

So Scotty, I own a 2017 GMC GDI 6.2 engine . I see alot of guys adding a catch can to help and apparently they do get a lot of oil trapped before it goes into the intake to help carbon build up . What would you recommend ? is it better to do that then continue operating without a catch can as the engineers made this engine ?

SIMPLER FIX…. wait until car can sit 3 days unused……when hot DRAIN SUMP, FILL TO TOP OF ROCKER COVER WITH DIESEL, take out plugs and fill cylinders with diesel. fit plugs, DISCONNECT BATTERY…… fill manifold / air intake with diesel— LEAVE 3 DAYS…. then drain sump, take plugs out and turn engine over with spanner….. THEN ON STARTER….. FIT PLUGS, REFILL OIL….. you’ve cleared more crap with 3 gallons diesel than taking head off….. and if you leave diesel to settle 2 months in a can you can syphon off and use it in older engine

Hey hey now, a shout out to New Mexico. But at least they worked on something good. Most people figure there’s nothing better to do then they steal someone’s ride. Never park your car in an unsecure area in ABQ, NEVER. Even then you rarely want to leave it parked where it’s secure too. They’ll steal it from in front of the PD here.

More and more cars are direct injection as fuel economy and emissions requirements get tighter…Letting the carbon buildup on the valves where it would normally be washed off by the gasoline and blown out the exhaust is kind of like a way to cheat the emissions test. I say it’s cheating because while it lowers emissions on a new engine (like what is used to get the emissions rating) it actually increases emissions over the long term.

I bought a 1986 Nissan Maxima from a couple so old, they bought their sandals with Jesus. The car coughed like it had asthma when I took it above 65MPH. Got a carbon cleaning and 2 years later, she still purrs like a kitten. The age of car and previous speed driven made the decision easy. Well done, Scotty.