Rite Aid is a leading drug store chain in Massachusetts, offering products and services to help people lead a healthy, happy life. They provide online refills, pharmacy, beauty, and more. To find your local Rite Aid, search by city and state or zip code, or browse the Store Directory.
Rite Aid is located at 1-5 St. James Ave., Chicopee, Massachusetts 01020. Their hours are from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm on Sundays, 8:00 am to 8:00 pm on Mondays, and 8:00 am to 8:00 pm on Tuesdays. They are closed now.
You can also find other Drug stores on MapQuest and find directions, reviews, and information for Rite Aid in Chicopee, MA. You can also find other Variety Stores on YP.com.
Rite Aid Pharmacy is open Monday through Friday from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm. They are closed on Labor Day, which falls on the third Monday of each month.
To find a nearby Rite Aid pharmacy, visit their website or call their phone number. Rite Aid is a leading drug store chain that offers superior pharmacies, health and wellness products, and services.
For those wondering what stores are open today, check out Labor Day 2018 in Massachusetts. Rite Aid is now closed in Chicopee, MA, but you can still find them on their website.
📹 Plant Trees Like An Arborist- Avoid This Common BIG MISTAKE!
All right last step is mulch. Now mulch is really good and the trees there’s a ton of benefits to mulch they are an insulator against …
Who is buying Rite Aid?
Rite Aid, a pharmacy chain, has faced several merger attempts in recent years. In 2015, Walgreens Boots Alliance planned to buy Rite Aid for $17. 2 billion, but abandoned the deal in 2017 due to antitrust concerns. In 2018, Albertsons and Rite Aid announced a $24 billion merger, but both were scrapped. In 2022, Rite Aid partnered with Google Cloud for a multiyear technology partnership to enhance its digital and data capabilities. The company also revamped its brand to compete with CVS Health and Walgreens.
What is the difference between CVS and Rite Aid?
Both Rite Aid and CVS offer similar products, yet Rite Aid distinguishes itself with a brighter, more welcoming atmosphere and rewards programs that include discounts and savings. CVS has a greater number of locations than Rite Aid, which has a smaller number.
Is Rite Aid doing bad?
Rite Aid, a Philadelphia-based food chain, has announced plans to close over 520 locations since filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy seven months ago. The closures have occurred in a number of states, including Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, California, Massachusetts, Michigan, Virginia, and Maryland. A representative of Rite Aid declined to comment on the closures.
Which is better CVS or Walgreens?
Both Walgreens and CVS represent optimal choices for the fulfillment of prescriptions, offering competitive pricing and a combination of convenient factors, including location, availability, and supplementary services. However, individual shopping habits may render a particular store more preferable than others. It is recommended that consumers compare prices and evaluate the savings offered by different stores before making a decision about purchasing pharmaceuticals.
What was CVS previously called?
Melville Corporation, previously known as CVS Health, was a managed healthcare pharmacy company specialising in the provision of insurance for pharmaceuticals, established in 1963 in Lowell, Massachusetts. The company was listed on the New York Stock Exchange under the ticker symbols “CVS S” and “P 100 component” and “S and P 500 component.” Previously, the company was known as CVS Caremark Corporation.
What is the Rite Aid scandal?
Rite Aid, founded in 1962 as Thrift D Discount Center, faced an accounting scandal in 1999 when it began restating earnings due to accounting irregularities. Six former Rite Aid senior executives were convicted of conspiracy in 2003 for accounting fraud and false filings with the SEC. The company changed its name to Rite Aid Corporation in 1968 and moved its stock to the New York Stock Exchange in 1970.
Rite Aid’s growth was marked by acquisitions like Envision Pharmaceutical Services in 2015 and two merger deals with Walgreens and Albertsons. Former Rite Aid executives admitted to overstating net income between 1997 and 2000.
What went wrong at Rite Aid?
Rite Aid, the third-largest drugstore chain in the United States, has encountered considerable difficulties as a consequence of prolonged mismanagement and misguided decision-making. The company’s decision to file for bankruptcy in October was precipitated by the accumulation of liabilities associated with lawsuits pertaining to the distribution of opioids and the prevailing challenges within the retail pharmacy sector. In an article published by The Wall Street Journal, the company’s unfortunate history was detailed, with particular emphasis placed on the significant losses incurred over an extended period of time.
Why are Rite Aid shelves so empty?
The store’s shelves are not considered the most profitable in the Pittsburg area. However, customers have observed that the appearance of the shelves is a cause for concern.
Did Walgreens buy out Rite Aid?
In 2015, Walgreens attempted to buy Rite Aid for $17. 2 billion, but the deal fell through due to the Federal Trade Commission’s refusal to approve it. In June 2017, Walgreens canceled the merger and bought 42 of Rite Aid’s stores for $4. 38 billion. A recent lawsuit accuses Walgreens Boots Alliance of downplaying antitrust regulator scrutiny, with the settlement still requiring approval from a federal judge in Pennsylvania.
Why is Rite Aid losing so much money?
The drugstore has been experiencing a decline in sales, accumulating long-term debt, and facing litigation alleging that it supplied an excess of painkillers, thereby contributing to the opioid epidemic.
Why does Rite Aid lose so much money?
The decline of Rite Aid can be attributed to its 2007 acquisition of the Brooks and Eckerd chains, which entailed the assumption of debt and the borrowing of funds from Jean Coutu Group, the former parent company of Brooks and Eckerd. Despite efforts to acquire Walgreens, the transaction was unsuccessful, resulting in the divestiture of nearly 2, 000 stores and the assumption of a long-term debt of $3. 3 billion as of June 3.
📹 SNEAK PETS Into a Costume Party! Party Costume Ideas & Sneaking Hacks by Kaboom!
Trick or treat! Are you ready for Halloween? We bet your pets want to go to a Halloween party too… Did you know you can sneak …
This is EXCELLENT advice. I planted a tree about 25 years ago whose roots were encircling the trunk and literally strangling it. An arborist advised corrective action to preserve the beautiful, but declining, live oak tree about five years. Believe me, it’s much, much cheaper to take corrective action when planting. Also, it’s far less traumatic to the tree, though my tree is once again looking great.
One of the things that my Dad taught me is that once you have dug the hole, 3 x the size of the root ball, and before you put the tree, shrub or plant in the hole, fill it with water, let it drain away and then do this two or three times. That way, the roots stay moist and have access to water for the first few days. We also put a handful of appropriate fertilizer in the bottom of the hole. Using this method, we have NEVER lost a plant and they have always got off to a good start. Even planting in Summer here in Australia.
My mother (may she rest in peace), whenever she bought new plants for the yard, or ones to put in her flowerpots, she’d tell us every time to loosen up the dirt, so that the root would be able to grow into the ground/new dirt in the pot that they were being transplanted into. If she was re-potting them, the new pot’s would be at least 3 times larger than the ones the plants were previously in. I always wished I was as good at taking care of plants as she was, but mine never last as long as hers did.
Water is fine instead of air spade. Less shock to tree. Nursery industry should offer discounts to root bound trees. Planting smaller trees that are not root bound is way to go, but is not part of commercial nursery industry. I have planted 3’ trees that were equal to or bigger than 8’ ers after 3 years because they did not shock out.
We have a 12-year-old Maple that really never took off like we thought it should have, but it wasn’t doing bad enough to replace. My husband saw this article and dug around the top of our tree and found that a big root was girdling the trunk just like this guy was talking about. Hubby removed that root last Fall and it’s now June and the tree is actually looking like it’s doing a bit better. We’ll know if it’s going to really take off by this time next year. BTW, Maples LOVE pine needle mulch.
Preach man, this problem is pervasive. It’s a self induced tree epidemic. Find the flare is what I tell people. There are hundreds if not thousands of trees planted too deeply in my town and the surrounding towns. It’s not just the girdling roots that kill the tree, it’s the fact that trees breathe through their root collar, and when it’s covered they suffocate. Also, the trunk rots when in contact with soil.
I like to auger out a two foot deep by one foot wide hole. Then use half compost,half black soil to fill in the bottom half. With any conifer,since I am out on the prairie loam clay soil,I add gallon of iron Swarf (cuttings from a lathe or milling machine) from my Machinist friend and two gallons ash to the hole mix. The spruce trees in my yard point their branches at the perfect upward angle and are beautiful. The one I didn’t add Iron or Ash to is arthritic looking and lacking the proper posture. You see spruce like that all the time out here. The deep hole allows the roots to penetrate deeper and easier for water. Cheers from Sunny Alberta!
I learned the folly of buying saplings 50 years ago from a good friend who owned a nursery he sold when he learned trees grow BEST from seed planted directly in their permanent home. Also, he shielded the sprout with a clear mylar cone, hole at the top, watered once. The seed caught up with a 3-year nursery tree in one year. And no root to untangle, no special hole, no fertilizer. I add heavy wood mulch to avoid bare ground eco-system, hold in moisture, encourage fungi. Some trees have tap roots, some trees have roots that grow laterally, spreading out near the surface. This calls for watering that meets their uniqueness.
I just blast all of the soil away with the hose next to the hole. And I only use the soil that I dug out of the hole to backfill with. I also found that if I have some stubborn soil or mulch that won’t easily come off with the hose will come out if I dip the entire root ball into a large bucket and swish it around. I am essentially planting a bare root tree by the time I’m done.
excellent article. I’ve planted about 60 fruit/nut trees in southern Arizona and have had so many arguments with people about whether or not to amend the soil around the root ball. Our soil is compacted and devoid of organic matter so its hydrophobic, but also fast draining. Adding some manure and compost to the soil has made a huge difference in the results I’ve seen so far.
Great article. My soil here in Oklahoma looks exactly like that… compacted clay. It seems like the clay would cause problems because it drains so slowly. The hole could fill up with water like a giant bowl. And in the spring, it could rain every other day filling the bowl back up before it could drain. Wouldn’t it drown the roots? I thought about getting a trencher and cutting a trench from the hole to downhill somewhere, then back-filling with gravel to give the bowl a place to drain.
When I move a tree I like to stand it up by the bottom, yes and at the same time support the top. It’s all about avoiding extremes. Slits with a knife is a good one, as is the airspade trick. It was difficult to tell how much you took off the top of that tree to make it to the flare? How much did you take off? Occasionally I’ve taken off 6 inches. Much of the time I cut the small fiber roots that are above the flare off prior to digging the hole, then i’m not digging too deep.
Newly planted trees and shrubs need continued watering throughout the first year. Obviously you would taper down the watering during winter months, but even then, during periods of time when there hasn’t been adequate rainfall or precipitation, you need to water them. Those fine roots hairs need constant moisture. As a Landscape Designer, I maintain the logic that, we don’t stop drinking water during the winter, and nor do our plants! There’s a saying in the industry, “Sleep, Creep and Leap” which refers to trees and shrubs sleeping the first year as they acclimate, creeping the second year as far as growth goes, and leaping (forward) their third year and beyond. In essence, it takes several years for trees and shrubs to strengthen and establish themselves. Proper planting and water management throughout the first year will ensure beautiful plants for years to come. Great instructional article!
I love being able to see all the roots in the root ball- so rad! I’m an arborist as well- but I work in a different region with a different type of clay soil. According to ISA materials I was always told that gravel being added to the hole doesn’t benefit drainage. Now I heard you say that the gravel was to reduce compaction…I sorta get that, but also I’m in the midwest so I’m not sure if this varies from region to region.
So informative 🙏 So living in a tourist town, coffee grounds are ever available and their process of growing the right fungi underground seems to a rate these clay soils so well. We have very little soil covering volcanic rock here, so feeding and adding earth that washes through with the rains and drought irrigation seems to bring it further into the volcanic gravel beneath. The tight clay that exists in between though is where the coffee helps so much. Your articles are very educating and I try to share them from my ♻️ Forests 🌳 playlist, but don’t always get to YouTube. Certainly worth the sharing and thank you.
One question, I planted an apricot tree in March of 2011, but this tree has never fruited. And to make things worse, this January 2024 someone decided that they were going to cut off the grafted part of the apricot tree… and now the tree looks like it has some sort of disease going on… glue like substance is coming out from the branches. Can you please help resolve or restore this tree and so that it will produce fruit and thrive. Thank you!
Bang on concerning root collar and planting depth. If only there was ANSI 60.1 to tell us how we shall plant so us arborists didn’t have to go around Siri g RCE’s amd similar. Curious why you added amendments? I like that you mixed them instead of just filling with them, but couldn’t that still create an interface of desired soil and cause potential girdling in the future?
this’s great! two questions #1 what’s your favorite, fastest, most affordable way to wrap those suckers so everything on the planet doesn’t try to eat them down to a stump, or ring them, or both #2 can you use an air compressor, the way you got the dirt out of the roots looks like that’d save an insane amount of time and safer for it too. #3 does anyone ever try to ask you to try to ‘heal’ the ring? some people say its possible as long as there’s a quarter left, some say it’s not. it’s frustrating because once the grass has grown up over it, it’s so hard to spot. anyway dealing with a lot of this now . thanks!
Interesting planting. I am a pro tree fruit hort and past arborist. Temperate fruit trees respond differently to depth of planting. Most are grafted on rootstocks. Deep planting does not damage these trees as long as the soil is well drained. Trunk planted below soil level will quickly produce roots. If the graft union is below ground, the dwarfing and disease resistance of the rootstock will be lost. For proof, reaserch stoolbed propagation of fruit tree rootstocks
i dont use the airhose i wash the roots out with a normal garden hose trying not to expose them too much because wet roots get sunburnt really quickly. then i just water them really good when they are planted (15 min full flooding) to wash them in. for clay soil add a mix of gravel and compost first so the bottom roots can find nutrients therefore the tree is rooting down faster, if you put the good soil atop like you did it will grow more roots at the top first which is unnecessary. and last build them a framework if they are the size of the tree you planted or a staff if they are smaller and tie them so the roots are not disturbed by wind. the tieups should be from 3 sides and not choke the tree. after 1-3 years the framework can be removed since the roots are now thick enough to hold the tree even in wind. no ties too tight ties are the most common errors i encounter at work. all in all good work. i hope that will help you out growing trees even faster and more consistent. keep it up, god bless you.
Ive always pruned off about a 1/3 of the roots when i put in a fruit tree thats been in a pot to long.i dig a larger circle than a deeper hole,and always put a can of sardines in water underneath. The only fruit trees that ive ever lost were i believe because it rained nonstop for over a week right after i planted….lost a nectarine and a plum.
Nice to hear someone talk about not compacting the soil so the roots have an easy time growing. The air thing kind of blew me away but it looked to me like this tree should have been planted a year or two earlier. {edit} I rewatched and also appreciate his attention to the root flair (“Crown” in my world) and keeping that point level with the existing grade.
So many people are looking for older trees to plant, when in reality, a tree should be transplanted within just a year or two – the longer it stays in a nursery, the more ‘bad habits’ they pick up. Its FAR cheaper for us to ship younger trees, as well – a better deal all the way around! My 2 cents .. this customer needs to do a lot of work improving their soil before putting in trees (unless they are redbuds and black locusts .. trees that can manage that heavy soil .. we sell those, too!)
that soil backfill if I’m not mistaken looked very heavy with compost/organic material. This will be very problematic for most trees. You want native soil backfill. Add sand/DG to increase aeration. Gary Matsuoka has a large source of information on youtube regarding this. Mulch/organic material belongs on top of the soil.
Yeah, Nice Information! I never had this in sight! Since one year i usually make the rootball free from most of the soil and try to make long roots a bit more lose. A nice and easy method to get rid of the soil is to raise the whole bag as high as possible and just push and drop it on a flat surface. Maybe you wont need even cut the bag apart! U can stomp on it and roll it a little.. Its fast, easy and effektive… Well, but if the Roots Are too much there are just some options like ur method from this article! Simple Watering and weaging in a big bucket or water pressure and after that cutting out for some Airholes
I’m so glad to see this on youtube, it took me a long time to hear this information and I was a landscape gardener for many years before I did. Burying the crown can also cause crown rot. Always check for the crown on potted tree. Nursery’s don’t always lift and add soil mostly just raise the soil level by throwing dirt on the top
What do you think about stomping dirt to make it firm? A famous extension agent wrote a book saying, plants dont need AIR around roots, they need soil… There”s air around every grain of dirt, he said. Well, i started transplanting everything like he said. I water at trandplant time, but that is usually it. I even transplant tiny flowers, using my little finger like a foot, to “stump” dirt in! I planted six 7-8 foot trees like that back in spring, half gal. of water. They had leaves in no time. I expected them to die when we had a mini drought in July, but all six are fine!! Ed Faulkner…he didn’t water large tomato transplants, to prove this works. He lay them flat in a trench and stomped dirt on top of them. Didnt even water them for the demonstration. I am convinced this works. Every one of my fancy flowers survived transplant. Now I aim to plant pecan and shellbark hickory trees like this. Nut trees have tap roots, so it probably is harder to get dirt firmly around the tap root to get rid of air. So I plan to use my fist to pound dirt up along the tap root. If anybody else grows nut trees successfully, tell us how!
I live in Moldova where I volunteer with Foster families and refugees. I live at the main Foster center where there are 12 homes on a large piece of land. There are hundreds of trees here. Almost every single one of the trees is bare root and planted about a foot too deep for ‘support’. Oh, it is so aggravating. When I was explaining how to plant a tree properly, there response was, “Maybe that is the American way.”
Where I live, there is a hard pan clay about 18″ to 2′ down. I dig below it, which none of the commercial planters seem to do. It’s hard to get through by hand. I suspect a hydraulic auger could get thru fairly easly. That way the tree can root deep. Most of our trees fall over even after 30 or 40 years because the roots spread wide not deep.
What’s the harm in planting deep? Town has been planting shade trees between curb & sidewalk, a mere 2’ distance. Surprise… sidewalks lifted, busted, curbs displaced, not to mention damage to planting beds and lawns. Thinking extra deep properly amended soil, adequately drained may allow root growth without this surface damage. Thoughts?
I have a newly planted pomegranate tree that was planted about a week ago. I know for sure the roots were extremely healthy but definitely spiral from its nursery container, the guy didn’t pull them apart. Do you think i should gently dig it up and break the roots apart since it just got planted? I would hate to have future problems. After perusal this article the hole should have been wider too.
The only thing to put in the tree hole is the tree and the soil that came out of the hole. The tree will be in 99.9% original soil very soon as the roots expand so trying to amend the soil is useless and a waste of money not to mention creating a barrier to root growth as they try to grow out of the amended soil and creating a water filled sump hole when the soil is clay. Never dig deeper than the pot is tall, a bit less is best so the tree wont sink. Turn the replaced soil into mud and jiggle the soil and tree a little (a little got it) to get the soil to settle into the roots. Yes loosen the roots and cut circling roots, blasting with hose can help. Yes mulch, fertilize with water soluble 1 Tbs in 5 gallons, first day 2 buckets after that one bucket after rains or occasionally after watering. Never fertilize after the 4 th of JUly.
You said your soil is very compact. I hate to tell you ☹. If you don’t dig it, the roots won’t be able to go there and prefer to stay in the loose, fertilized soil where they will start spinning in the hole you made. It is recommended to make bigger hole especially in your case. Wide and also to dig deep to make sure that there are no stones and too dense soil because some roots may want to go deep for stability and water, even if most don’t want to go down, but so be it it is possible – I dug up a 27-year-old cherry 2 months ago, so I know and am sure of how cherry roots grow and some grow downwards – mix the original soil with the improved one in a wider circle than just for a few years and also importent in the shape of a star to prevent the roots from growing into a circle.
I did not understand why it is good to plant a tree so shallow, especially one that will be big with a wide trunk and in time, when it is still young, the roots will stick out of the ground, the trunk near the ground will soon begin to spread, the ground within a radius of two or three meters will rise due to thickening root. Instead, I would recommend planting large trees more than 30 cm (1 foot) deeper than originally. I mean to create an artificial depression in which the tree is planted and over the years the terrain will gradually level out, the roots will eventually stick out less and you will not dig yourself into the terrain or the roots, it will also not harm the tree in any way, rather it will better resist its own leverage, which increases over time. Well, just my opinion.
I planted 5 trees in the back yard of my first house 22 years ago, in 2002. 3 maples, a birch, and an ash.It was a new build. The builder planted a maple in the front yard. Sold the house back in 2009, but still visit our old next door neighbors from time to time. All the trees I planted have survived and thrived to this day, except for when the emerald ash borer killed the ash tree. Meanwhile, the one maple in the front planted by the builder had to be ripped out after 20 years because the roots heaved up and wrecked the front yard and sidewalk. I now live in a condo complex. A tree management service planted some new black gum trees last fall, and the one outside my front door is dead, never leafed out. It’s amazing that a clueless schmuck like me could plant 5 trees, and all of them grow to 50 feet tall, and the so called professionals can’t plant them right.
A bigger hole. Water with a soluble Vitamin B mix and add a time release gradular in bottom of hole before planting. Than a good planting soil and some compost added around the tree to complete the job. Tamp soil down and add more water with a Vitamin B or rooting product, slowly where soil was added around the tree. I do not recommend sitting in dirt.
Plant in a square hole, especially when planting into heavy clay. If you dig a round hole the roots will return to encircling the tree, the hole will act like a pot. If you dig a square hole and roots return to an encircling behaviour they will break out of it when they hit the corner of were the hole was dug. The density and things of the ground won’t be the same where you dug the hole. This is in compacted ground so a good example, the round holes will just act like pots and redirect the roots.
In the south with compacted red clay there are millions of trees that never had a hole even dug for them much less amend the soil. I find it is perfectly fine to plant without adding anything at all to the hole. In fact, adding potting mix and or chips just causes the tree to sink in the hole after that stuff decomposes. I do not see a problem mixing in that fine gravel that he is using but it needs to be mixed in with all the dirt not just scattered on the bottom of the hole. That is a fallacy that the hole has to be double or triple the size of the hole, it goes back to what I said, the trees in nature send in a tiny root into the ground without any size hole being dug whatsoever. It is not necessary at all with these trees. It does need to be fairly wide so you can pack the dirt down the sides of the hole. When a large hole might be necessary is with small shrubs or flowers or small plants, those for sure can benefit with a bigger hole and a small amount of soil amendments. And the wood mulch does help prevent weeds and it breaks down and puts nutrients into the soil, but one big problem they act as a wick and will constantly pull the moisture out of the soil. If you have a slow drip on a timer this will not be a problem. The best mulch is pine straw. It will not pull the moisture out of the ground. It will prevent weeds, it will keep the soil damp and it will break down and put nutrients into the soil.
I’ve been seeing a lot of the mulch volcanoes, sponsored by Big Mulch, but sometimes they are planted a bit high, and do well, because they are above a troubled soil type, and the root collar isn’t actually buried, but just gives the look, of the mulch smothered technique. Some tree planting companies expect turnover, as some people change their tastes in short time, especially stores replace trees very quickly, in their parking lots. I plant trees for the long haul, and I prefer a strong leader, so I hate how some nurseries carelessly prune for a messy bushy short look. Leave the tree alone, and let the owner decide what shape.
I did something similar with one of my mom’s Japanese maples that i wanted to plant at my house. It had been in the pot for so long I laid it on it’s side and started whacking and stabbing the root ball with my shovel to try and break it apart. Probably not the right way to do it but it’s still alive for now.
I teach dendrology at a local university and am shocked at how many arborists do not adhere to the importance of root flare exposure. I was hired to speak at a seminar hosted by the city of Windsor Ontario because of low survival rates of trees planted in newly created parks. I investigated the trees and lo and behold…. root flares covered by almost 6-12 inches of soil. Almost every tree was suffering from rotten bark at the soil line. The city arborists said the trees were NOT planted too deep 😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅. We can all plant as many trees as we want to TRY and salvage environmental issues but until we all learn about doing it correctly we are all wasting our time.
In that kind of soil I would do much more for this tree. AT LEAST 3 or 4 FEET of nutrient stack under the tree. Remove that horrible soil and add a mix of sand, top soil, mushroom compost and triple 12. I also add starter fertilizer around the root ball. I put a 4 ft pvc pipe that water the trees from below, and as the tap root goes to the water source, it finds the nutrient stack and expands. I am getting massive growth on my trees.
Just started the article, im gonna guess its either “find the flare” to make sure the nursery didnt burry it (as they always freaking do) OR to make sure that the roots aren’t going to choke-out the tree when it gets older Edit: omg lol, it was both! I guess i did learn something being a groundie for an arborist 😂😝
Lol, that gravel in clay soil will just make concrete. It will all bind together anyway & be a problem within the year. Everything else is great. I plant mine on top of a mound of a hardened clumps of clay so the roots have room to grow down initially, then I backfill with mostly clay & some compost + leaves & top it with wood chips to keep the temps & weeds down.
Can anyone please help me. So I put 3 ground anchors and 3 ratchet straps to upright a 5 year old maple tree that was recently uprooted last week in a storm. I’m guessing each ratchet strap has about 200 lbs or so of force on the main trunk so at least 600lbs minimum. How long should I keep that setup for without injuring or killing the tree?
Idk man, last year my neighbor planted his tree high as fuck like that and it looks like shit. I planted mine lower at about the same time and it’s thriving. I think people have taken this keep the root flare above the ground thing too far and are now leaving the actual roots above ground! I have never seen a tree in nature grow with it’s roots that high up in the soil except for old mature live oaks with massive root systems below ground. There are also a bunch of scabby looking oaks planted around my neighborhood that were planted high, they have tons of die back and all look like they are drying. I’m pretty sure tree roots are supposed to be in the ground…
Also remember when you prune roots don’t prune the shoots. Or you can stunt the whole tree. No more than 2 to 3 inches of mulch. If you have an established tree, and want to build up the soil around it 1/2 to 3/4 inch loose soil because adding to much per year will keep the roots burried to deep. The roots need air and water to penetrate into the ground for streess free growth, 1 year for stakes is enough for young trees like this one.
Definitely a few things wrong here. There really isn’t ever such a thing as too much mulch. That hole needs to be deeper especially in clay. It’s just going to be a bowl of water soup that will likely be the cause of rootrot to this tree. Also, all of those bags of material to help remedy the soil.. Should that have all be mixed up? And that soil you backfilled the tree with should be compacted atleast a bit! Completely loose soul like that will settle like crazy
Jeez, why didn’t I find this article when I needed to plant a tree earlier today? And why isn’t any of this advice – seemingly very important – included in any of the instructional information provided with the tree upon purchase??? It’s almost like the garden center wants your tree to die in a few years so you keep coming back. Now I have to go back to my parent’s house and inspect (possibly dig up and re-plant) the tree I just planted for them!
Applying air to roots, and cutting or slicing the soule by a knife are very bad idea. It is better to wash the soile away by water. Applying pressured air to the roots will dry the roots fast. and cutting through the soild will cut the rootd and both methods will add to the stress the plant will have because of relocation.
A few things to add to your article. I was talking by my granddaughter. Who has a very large apple orchard? In okinagan, Washington State. He says that you should dig your initial hole. The same diameter as the adult trees drip line. And go down about 6 feet, then you put A Standing drain pipe Close to the middle of the hole.and then fill the hole with a mixture of native soil,root tuner, Composed manure, Appropriate fertilizer for the type of tree you are planting. You’re gravell and gypsy. The gypsy ads calcium to the soil end also breaks up the soil, so it drains easier. Yeah, so you don’t end up with a rotten root system. And the grain pipe has got holes down. If they’re things, so when you water it, you wonder it by? Flood in the water goes down and draws a boost down into that super soil you just made. In later years, you can use that drain pipe to put fertilizer down at the bottom of the route system. I did this with a bear route. Bing cherry a few years ago. The first year that being cherry grew about 40 inches. My granddaughter because of the size of his orchard had a lot of heavy equipment. When I planned the cherry tree? I had to do it by hand and. Do you use later I had cherries on that tree. Hope this helps. Robert
The other detrimental trend running rampant are ‘mulch volcanoes’ instead of flat or ‘donut’ mulching…..landscapers make a killing on this slow grift business plan by selling excessive mulch every year, then later removing the tree they mulched to death, and lastly by selling a tree to replace the one they killed.
I don’t even claim to be an expert. But there is practically no topsoil left in the US. Especially in the Southeast where agriculture was the norm for a solid 300 years. Nothing but a few inches (at most) of top soil and then you run into the red clay. I can’t agree more that you want a wide hole when planting. Those roots just don’t like to fight that hard acidic red clay. They will take the path of least resistance and grow towards the surface. Something everybody wants to avoid. If you have dead patches around your trees, the likely result is that the tree roots are so close to the surface that they simply starve out everything else. And it is all because of that damn red clay forcing the root system upward. This article could practically be made in any state in the southeast. One thing that surprised me a bit though is that there is literally no top soil at that location. Which tells me the grass hasn’t even been growing long enough to build up topsoil. Grass isn’t great for this, but even it will eventually generate topsoil if left alone for years. Seeing nothing but red clay makes me think this location was either completely cleared during the landscaping phase of construction or it was overly used field not that long ago.
Your left with a pancake of roots. Thats why you have to stake the tree up. I hate when nurseries bury the root flare. Its out of laziness. They just fill the pot up as the soil sinks. Then the adventitious roots come up and girdle the trunk. STOP being lazy nurseries. I pull the plant out each year and put soil UNDER the tree, so the whole pot is rooted correctly. Yes its more work, but it avoids all this in the article
How to plants and grow trees:- Africans:-)we just use soil ball put seed inside and throw the ball on ground…🙂. USA:-) we need heavy duty dress like mercenary.. need industrial grade pressure washers/ digging equipment/day night vision cameras/sunglasses/ monster Ram trucks/ Guns and sounds of gunfire ..😁😉. Awesome planting. Thanks
We need to educate the client. If you want a tree to live for decades, it’s worth preparing the soil properly. I would have liked to see you mix the existing clay with the gravel and new soil, to create soil texture and not layering. And while that mix is in a pile, I would have further cracked open the clay, and created a radiating star pattern to the hole, incorporating gypsum to bind to the clay, creating drainage. Then continue, as you did, teasing the roots, incorporating the mix and then staking the tree with three stakes that loop to the tree (not tied around it) and tied to the stake, so the tree has a little sway in the breeze but remains supported. – Not being critical, I understand the restrictions of clients who don’t fully understand the ramifications of cost saving. Love the goggles, what’s the make/model? I’m in Australia (landscape gardener) and often get eye injury from our native plants, like Lomandra (spikey and sharp)
Believe it or Not, I found a Genuine T=ree Seed Germination Kit at Walmart ? (The Last one) for $5 I Love those trees GIANT Sequoia`s three seeds. I have a lot of work to do . I don`t think they can thieve, in Florida . so after they get growing at a certain I`ll take them to a Climate. I`ve watch article them,But this is a Dream Come True I have pure water I can ask the CO. The Jonsteen Company .The package was on the Discount Aisle,its like a gift from Father GOD.
Yes, if you have a badly root bound tree, this process is helpful. What would be far more helpful is to educate people on how to select a good quality tree that doesn’t have these problems to begin with. Here’s a article that shows you how to select a quality tree and a second article on how to plant it. youtu.be/05EEXRRxUZY youtu.be/PPfh9YgVpjs
Did you have a degree in that? This is the wildest assumption I have ever heard. I always just plant the entire root ball. Disturbing root system is not a good idea. Tree getting choked by its own root? That’s just garbage. When it’s in the container, it has no place to go. Once you plant it, it will spread out. I have planted plenty of trees, and everyone of them did very well.
its called “root bound” and it happens in all container grown plants. especially plants that have sat in their container for longer than they should have. Now yeah, you do have to break up root bound plants like that one if you want it to take well to a new transplant location, purely for O2 uptake pretty much as the old dead roots will attract anaerobic microbes and potentially suffocate your new transplant. TBH you sound like a noob. I was taught this when I was 10 years old by my grandma planting stuff we had gotten at the nursery for half off- BECAUSE- she had argued the plant was root bound and needed extra work to plant properly- and claimed their laziness in maintaining proper- transplantable- nursery plants was shady and thus received alota plants half off. This is not a common mistake tbh, its a common mistake by people who dont know anything about plants.