Modern routers like Eero’s mesh routers and Google’s Nest Wifi Pro are known for their band steering feature, which automatically picks the best option for your home Wi-Fi network. To set up a home Wi-Fi network, you need a wireless router. The choice of router can be challenging due to hundreds of models offering different features. To make an informed choice, read about types, features, and other must-know topics in our wireless router buying guide.
When selling used smartphones and computers, it is important to wipe the router before selling. The best Wi-Fi 6e and 7 router specs, testing results, when to update your router, how to choose, and how we test are also essential.
To build a snappy home Wi-Fi network, you need to consider factors such as the Rite Aid Fast Wireless USB Type-c Charging Stand, NETGEAR Orbi WiFi 6 Router with DOCSIS 3.1 Built-in Cable Modem (CBR750), Skullcandy Dime 2 True Wireless – Black 604, and more.
To provide a more personalized digital experience, Rite Aid does share some information with third parties, who may have a secondary use of this information. The Total Managed Wi-Fi system offers wireless routers that can handle whatever you’re doing wirelessly.
Using wireless routers is prohibited on our network, but you can access the Internet through WWU WiFi using your universal login. Rite Aid offers a wide selection of home essentials, including batteries, hooks, hardware, antivirus software, crypto wallets, password managers, wireless routers, home security cameras, and home security systems.
📹 The routers worth buying in 2022
With new, affordable mesh systems and the arrival of faster Wi-Fi 6 speeds, now’s a great time to upgrade your router. You can …
Does Rite Aid sell car chargers?
The Rite Aid car charger with a 6ft USB-C to Lightning cable is a compact and lightweight device that can charge iPhone and iPad lightning devices. It features built-in protection systems to prevent overcharging, overcurrent, and overvoltage, ensuring the safety of both users and their devices. The charger has been tested to stand 20, 000+ bends and is compatible with all new iPhone devices with lightning ports, including 14/13/12/SE 2020/ 11/11 Pro/11 Pro Max / XS / XS Max / XR / X and more.
The charger is MFI certified and built with Apple’s original chip, ensuring safe and fast charging of lightning devices. The package includes a USB C power car charger adapter and a 6ft Lightning cable.
How can I charge my phone in my car without USB?
A car charger with a USB port that can be plugged into a cigarette lighter can easily charge a smartphone, but it requires a current of at least 2 amperes. It’s important to check the packaging when buying a car charger. Some cars may have built-in USB ports for charging smartphones, but the current may be too limited for quick charging due to heavy apps or using the phone as a sat nav.
The latest car models now include wireless charging technology, which can be placed in a tray, drawer, central console, or under the armrest. This eliminates the need for cables and allows the smartphone to be charged without the need for cables. All car manufacturers meet the Qi standard, so if your smartphone is compatible, it can be charged without issue.
Why did Rite Aid collapse?
Rite Aid, the third-largest drugstore chain in the United States, has encountered considerable difficulties as a consequence of prolonged mismanagement and misguided decision-making. The company’s decision to file for bankruptcy in October was precipitated by the accumulation of liabilities associated with lawsuits pertaining to the distribution of opioids and the prevailing challenges within the retail pharmacy sector. In an article published by The Wall Street Journal, the company’s unfortunate history was detailed, with particular emphasis placed on the significant losses incurred over an extended period of time.
How can I charge my car without a charger?
Jump starting is a method to recharge a dead car battery by connecting jumper cables between two charged batteries. This process transfers energy from the charged battery to the dead one, allowing the vehicle to start. The alternator continues charging the battery while the car is running. To jump-start a car, you need a functioning vehicle with a charged battery, jumper cables, protective gloves, and safety goggles.
Is Rite Aid doing bad?
Rite Aid, a retail pharmacy chain, has been closing stores since filing for bankruptcy, resulting in a drop from 2, 500 to 1, 554 stores as of early August 2024. This is nearly 1, 000 fewer than the company operated three years ago. The downsizing coincides with a broader shift in retail pharmacy, with CVS and Walgreens also reducing their store count. The company’s downsizing has had ripple effects, with GoodRx estimating that Rite Aid’s closures would reduce its profits by at least $5 million. The company has not provided a target number of locations as part of its bankruptcy plan.
How do you charge an electric car when there is no power?
Standby generators are automatic generators that automatically start during power outages, allowing you to charge your electric car without the need for manual setup. They can be installed for fast charging during blackouts. Solar energy is another option for charging your electric car during a power outage, which is a larger investment but may be suitable for those who care about the environment. Solar panels on your roof collect the sun’s energy all day and convert it into electricity, which can be used to charge your vehicle at night.
Did Walgreens buy out Rite Aid?
In 2015, Walgreens attempted to buy Rite Aid for $17. 2 billion, but the deal fell through due to the Federal Trade Commission’s refusal to approve it. In June 2017, Walgreens canceled the merger and bought 42 of Rite Aid’s stores for $4. 38 billion. A recent lawsuit accuses Walgreens Boots Alliance of downplaying antitrust regulator scrutiny, with the settlement still requiring approval from a federal judge in Pennsylvania.
Can fake chargers damage your phone?
Fake chargers can cause irreversible damage to smartphones and other devices, causing lagging, stuck, and decreased performance. These chargers can also significantly impact gaming performance when used while playing games. Real-life examples and cautionary tales are shared, with consumers reporting life-threatening situations due to the use of low-quality capacitors that fail to manage current flow and stop working. It is crucial to be cautious when using fake chargers, as they can lead to serious consequences and require replacement or repair by the manufacturer.
Why does Rite Aid lose so much money?
The decline of Rite Aid can be attributed to its 2007 acquisition of the Brooks and Eckerd chains, which entailed the assumption of debt and the borrowing of funds from Jean Coutu Group, the former parent company of Brooks and Eckerd. Despite efforts to acquire Walgreens, the transaction was unsuccessful, resulting in the divestiture of nearly 2, 000 stores and the assumption of a long-term debt of $3. 3 billion as of June 3.
Are cheap chargers worth it?
Chargers and batteries should be prioritized, even if you shop around for quality items. Many cheap knock-off chargers found on eBay and Amazon are sub-par. Saving $20 on a generic charger can potentially kill a laptop or cell phone, as most people feel the $10 or $20 saved isn’t worth the cost. It’s also not worth investing in a high-quality smartphone charger to risk destroying it. Furthermore, the risk of the charger or battery catching fire is also increased. Therefore, it’s crucial to choose quality products over cheap knock-off chargers.
What is the Rite Aid scandal?
Rite Aid, founded in 1962 as Thrift D Discount Center, faced an accounting scandal in 1999 when it began restating earnings due to accounting irregularities. Six former Rite Aid senior executives were convicted of conspiracy in 2003 for accounting fraud and false filings with the SEC. The company changed its name to Rite Aid Corporation in 1968 and moved its stock to the New York Stock Exchange in 1970.
Rite Aid’s growth was marked by acquisitions like Envision Pharmaceutical Services in 2015 and two merger deals with Walgreens and Albertsons. Former Rite Aid executives admitted to overstating net income between 1997 and 2000.
📹 Routers Suck. Build Your Own Instead!
Did you know that you can build your own router that’ll perform a lot better than off-the-shelf products? It’s easier than you think!
You can see the products featured in this article here 👇 TP-Link Archer AX21: bit.ly/3kHmYfr NETGEAR Orbi RBK13: bit.ly/3orjRJI Asus RT-AX86U: bit.ly/3ClvDub TP-Link Deco W7200: bit.ly/3wN9hAo Linksys Hydra Pro 6E: bit.ly/3Hk0Rpf Netgear Orbi AX6000: bit.ly/3HsqQLh *CNET may get a commission from these offers.
Be sure to check Black Friday sales – I got an Orbi tri-band a few years ago November, which would have been too expensive for my budget but it was $150 off during Black Friday. Made a huge difference in my internet and local file sharing speeds; the old router still worked, but was way overdue for replacement.
Asus routers come with the added bonus of functioning in a wifi mesh system. For example if you have an asus router and upgrade to a newer one. Chances are the old you one you have can support the aimesh node features. In which case you can take your old router and set it up as an access point only, then take the new router and set it up as a router. Then do the aimesh thing in the Asus router app and BAM you got a mesh system going. Honestly if it’s worth it to you then you could get 1 really good asus router and a couple cheaper ok decent asus routers and set up a whole mesh system in your house and if you do it just right you could have a super powerful Wi-Fi mesh system in your home for far cheaper than buying a whole kit with that many nodes at that strength and offering the same amount of security 🤷♂️
Very nice article, with a good breakdown of which router is best for your situation. Right up there with the old Dong Ngo router articles, with a nice flow. I’m in IT, 20+ years experience. Your article is my new go to article for anyone wanting a WiFi 6 router. My only nitpick is the article is a little long at 9 minutes, but informative so it’s worth it.
Just bought the Linksys Hydra Pro and couldn’t be happier. One of the things I like about it, other than it offering 6E, is that it doesn’t look like a space ship from some tiny planet just landed on my desk. I also purchased a Linksys 7350 router to use as a mesh node at the other end of the house. Both were discounted for the holidays.
I get really annoyed that modern routers (mesh especially) don’t list what features they have. Same goes for this article. Basic features like static IP leasing, viewing connected hosts, traffic monitor, enabling/disabling NAT, DHCP, or UPnP, adjusting wireless websites, signal strength, and viewing a system log. I see these as basic features yet they are so frequently ignored. It seems that speed is the only thing marketed. But good luck setting up a network printer.
I got the Orbi AC3000 (RBK50) with a satellite for $230 with a 15% military discount. It’s coming today. I’m so stoked. My old wireless router is garbage, I believe it was made before the Internet was invented, possibly in 1863. It’s so old that when my 97 year old great aunt saw it she reminisced, “Oh, I remember those from when I was a small child. We would kick them into the mud and stomp on them at our Kansas wheat farm while shouting, ‘You’re all hat and no cattle!'”
Great article. I live in an apartment. I’ve never had issues with range. But I suspect I have bad Internet because of the amount of devices I have on my network. Anywhere from 15 to 20 devices. I have one computer hooked up through ethernet and it always has a solid connection. I’ve been told to get a mesh system but I figured those were just for people who needed more range. Any recommendations on routers? For my specific need?
This article could not show up at a better time for me. I have been wanting to purchase my own router finally but I have no idea which one to get. My Wi-Fi is at the top tier as far as speed and I’m tired of “renting” my router from my cable provider 🙁 I am a newbie to this topic so please understand that-Who here can recommend a router for my small home with a few laptops and a few iPhones used daily? Thank you!
What I would wish that people would talk about more in wifi routers is “changing websites.” We all know the common problems with wifi and having no signal or signal dropping out. But I do not see anyone talking about changing your wifi website. In certain ways it can prevent you from buying a new router. And you hear about wifi 6 routers are a waste of money unless you have alot of devies. So i bought a gaming asus wifi router and something that i discovered that our current wifi eero routers could not do, was changing the wifi website because we had a neighbor that was on the same website as ours. And we would have little drops outs and we normally did not have this problem but recently we had a new neighbor that moved in. And I used a wifi analyzer app and sure enough I was right. But unfortunately eero will not allow you to change websites. Sure enough the asus gaming wifi router actually auto switches between websites if a website becomes clogged. We do not have wifi 6 speeds but it supported the devices that we currently own. And through the desktop software, I could not believe how much control asus gives to the consumer. But to me having a router that auto changes websites is smart if your neighborhood is busy.
I see a lot of articles like this from CNET and others poo-poohing Wi-Fi 6E’s 6 GHz range compared to 5 GHz or 2.4 GHz. But that’s not a weakness; it’s a strength. That means in the near future, when all your neighbors are running over 6 GHz, their signal won’t bleed into your space as much and cause interference that degrades your wireless performance. If you need stronger signal in the 6 GHz band, just add more APs. In some sense, I kinda wish that WiGig took off in the home more than it did because 60 GHz definitely can’t penetrate walls and would be the perfect solution for interference-free Wi-Fi.
Why cant we communicate with some sort of invisible light that passes through walls? A solar panel would be the recieving end of a nic. Or better yet, take control of individual electrons and send them through quantum wormholes to their destination, so that any wireless operation is instant. Best is all these and all others, except router chooses when to use what.
I purchased the Linksys Hydra Pro 6E last week at Best Buy for $350. Looks like the prices have gone even lower to $250 as of 11/19/21. Was in the market to upgrade from my old Netgear C7000 modem/router. This router is a beast and gives consistent speeds/signal for my home. Over 16 devices connected like smart TVs, cell phones, two PS5s with no problem. Very pleased considering I will get the price adjustment for $250 and future proof for the near future.
Hi. I really like your presentation, you did well explaining the routers. I’m looking at the Asus XT8, I got about 30 wifi devices that needs connection, but only 5 of those has wifi 6 capabilities the rest 2.4GHz. My home is around 1200 – 1400 sq ft. 50 Mbps upload and 10Mbps download is my internet provider’s router speed which I was told can only handle about 13 connected devices at the same time so, my hope is that Asus XT8 can handle more! Would this work?
Wifi6 makes very little difference unless you have a high # of concurrently streaming devices. Paying again/more for little to no difference (for the average user) is decidedly a downgrade. Besides, implying that all your gear is within 2 years old to support it? What a waste of resources that would be to replace all gear every couple years. Thanks for polluting the planet and trying to encourage others to do so too! On the other hand, if you live in a densely populated area like a condo or especially an apartment, it makes perfect sense to go 6GHz except again, have to have devices that support it. You cannot “future proof” your home based on which router you pick. You can future proof your home by installing ethernet cable (or optical) to every room when its built, but then a router is plug and play, not at all a permanent installation.
“Future proofing” your network doesn’t pan out in the end. The router goes out just when the “future” arrives. And then you gotta buy a new router anyway. I got one of those expensive netgear nighthawk routers years ago with 6 antennas tri band etc. now it’s going out on me and I heard the antennas go out over time due to age and use. Something I didn’t know happens. I’m sticking with least expensive routers from now on.
And what if I buy a internet router plus modem combo but it will die on me quick? That is what I am worried about. And what if the router has problems and my ISP cannot be able to fix the issue? What should I do or how do I fix this problem if I experience this problem if I buy my own internet modem plus router?
I just purchased a TP-Link AX4400, it seems to be the best bang for the buck and I live in a 1 bedroom apartment so mesh would be overkill since I’m only dealing with 877 sq ft of apartment. Also after checking into the tech specs, theoretically, my router can do 224 devices between the 2.4 and 5Ghz bands. I don’t have that many, but when it comes to smart home devices, having more breathing room is nice. For all serious devices, such as streamers, my iMac, etc, I use Ethernet. I’ve had the router for about a little over 2 weeks now, and it’s been rock solid.
Not a single word on how many wired outs the routers have…. I need a good router with at least 5 outs. 1 – for LG TV, 2 – surrond sound amp, 3 – pc, 4- pc, 5- Nvidia shield. This article was no help looking for a router. It should have been titled i an going to talk about wireless connection speed, but not mention any features of the router. Sad!!!
I would not recommend the zenwifi et8, which is WiFi 6e. The speeds are nice, when its working, but i had my first unit replaced because it would just drop connections with devices, forcing them to connect using the password again. This new unit doesnt do that, but it does have a shared issue with the first replaced unit (unit being a 2 pack) where it just stops serving internet sometimes, and might start again on its own in a minute or after being restarted. 500+ dollars, down the drain. Ill keep it though and try upgrading its software in about a year, hopefully they will have ironed out the issues.
But if I buy my own internet router & modem combo pack, how long will it last me? Is it possible for me to get a wi-fi router combo that will last me a long time? Or no routers last a long time? Because my internet service provider is Xfinity by Comcast. My internet speed is 200 MBPS. Any suggestions or still just stick with my ISP’S modem plus router combo??
I finally upgraded my old Nighthawk R7000. I originally wanted the ASUS ZenWifi but missed the sale. So I went with orbi Tri-Band AX4200 on sale for $350. I wish I upgraded sooner because now I have full coverage in every corner of my house and even to the street. Setup was ridiculously easy and all 18 devices are working great. I also ordered a wifi 6 PCIe card with Bluetooth 5.0 for my PC and that should be here tomorrow. Now I need to figure out what xfinity compatible modem to buy and bump up my internet to 800-1000.
I have turned one of my old PCs into a router about a year ago and it is currently running adblock, intrusion detection and local VPN, so I can access my home network and NAS from anywhere. It’s pretty cool definitely recommend others to give it a try. Also learned a bunch of stuff of how networks work.
Nitpick from a networking professional at 3:13 – switching and bridging is not the same. It even says so in the highlighted text. A super short explanation would be: bridging means incoming traffic from one port is sent to all others. Switching means incoming traffic on one port is only sent to the port where the destination is. Bridging would congest the network card like immediately especially during high bandwidth traffic situations like network file transfer or streaming.
For my understanding you’re missing the “fourth” important part of an all-in-1router: The modem, which translates the DSL-Signal into an Ethernet-signal, which then can be routed to you internal network. At least in Europe (when using DSL) you need this…So you need one as well when putting together your DIY-stuff.
I used to run a DIY router back in the early dial-up DSL days here in Germany, but ever since I came across the first AVM Fritz!Box I never went back. These things are an absolute godsend. For the SoHo-environment at least. And for a German cable connection there aren’t any real alternatives either. Also, even though I’m an actual IT-Guy, I’m just getting too old and lazy for this $h!t…
I literally was reading this hackaday article a week ago lol I still love the one network Chuck made with a raspberry Pi and two USB Wi-Fi antennas. Like he said it makes a perfect travel router with built-in VPN that you can set up in seconds wherever you go knowing that you have nothing to worry about using a public Wi-Fi
One thing I will say, as someone who used to work as tech support for an ISP, is that one should take the time to get fully comfortable with PFSense before committing to switch over in lieu of a standard router. The amount of times I had customers call who had little to no idea how to do even simple things on the PFSense they installed (or, even worse, their tech savvy friend/family member installed for them), complaining of slow speeds or routing issues, or packet loss, or high pings, or intermittent dropping (especially on DSL), is just frightening. And unless you hit the jackpot, there’s basically zero chance that the tech support you get on the line will be able to help beyond making sure everything works plugged direct to the modem and sending you on your way to figure the rest out yourself, even if you are lucky enough to be with an ISP that is willing to support issues within the Local Network (mine initially didn’t but shifted towards doing so a year or so before I left). The standard branded routers are all encountered commonly enough that most ISPs will either have emulators or guides for them, but PFSense, to many ISP tech support agents, may as well be a totally different language. I know it should be common sense to make an effort to understand something that important before using it as the lynchpin of your internet access, but, unfortunately, there are a lot of people out there who don’t make that effort and then find themselves lost as soon as things go anything but smoothly.
This is a plan of mine whenever I can finally get a job. Redo the entire networking for the house, with a single network (stuck with 2 routers that don’t play nice to each other, so upstairs and downstairs are their own wifi networks- one of them doesn’t support the ability to just automagically switch over)
I’ve been running OPNSense for 2-3 years now, initially on a Dell SFF box with a i5-4590 and 8GB of RAM; currently, I have it on a “refreshed” mini-ITX build with the i5 and RAM scavenged from said Dell (screw Dell proprietary mobos and fans!) with a dual-port 2.5G NIC. I prefer bare metal, but IIRC it can be done on Proxmox or unRAID as well in docker containers.
If u only need wifi a good low budget option is a raspberry pi, it has integrated wifi which can be configured as an AP. I have done it on a Pi 1A and 3B, which only have 100mbit/s Ethernet ports. At those speeds the wifi could keep up and range was about equal to the router/AP provided by the ISP with a repeater
As someone who has spent most of the last 10 years working on enterprise hardware: I wish I could afford some of the dedicated solutions I’ve worked with. Nothing like having a dedicated fiber modem, dedicated router, dedicated switches and dedicated wireless access points. The only data center I’ve worked at that only ever had scheduled downtime was the only data center that had all single purpose dedicated hardware. Sure that made the scheduled downtime take longer, but resulted in longer overall uptime.
We definitely need an Anthony/Linus collab article for this. Anthony has an absolutely astonishing amount of technical know-how and is great at presenting those details, and there’s just something about the enthusiastic and “easy to understand” presentation style from Linus. Together, they make some of my favorite articles on the LTT website when technical detail and fun DIY vibes are the focus.
I run unraid on an old pc and run pfsense on a vm inside it. Makes it far more economical as far as power consumption goes. If you’re just going to install pfsense, I recommend using a low power system like a NUC or similar. Only issue there is it can be tricky to find one with 2 x LAN ports, and tricky to add a LAN port if you can only find a single NIC system.
Nah, the most OEM routers actually are 4 devices nowadays. You forgot the modem. I have tried self build routers from different embedded and full sized x86 for many years now – it always was total crap! Even when using Intel enterprise network adapters these systems all had way higher packet loss and where much less reliable than a standard OEM router, despite the high theoretical throughput! And hostap NEVER ran even closely as stable as an access point, as any cheap OEM-router did by default. Also they eat a LOT of power, and electricity costs you an arm and a leg here in Europe now. The best experiences I had with routers that I flashed custom firmware on, especially Tomato (or now: FreshTomato).
N00b tips – 1) use PFSense, it is secure by default EG everything is blocked and must be allowed. 2) Disable uPNP 3) Block all incoming connections that do not originate from the LAN (aka inside your network) 4) use a Layer3 (L3) smart switch as it can do some routing, which will save the actual router some overhead. 5) put all IoT and guest devices on a separate, firewalled vlan. 6) don’t use WiFi routers which have not had firmware updates in the last 18-24m .
Ha! Years ago, before consumer routers (and WiFi!) were available, I was buying old PCs from university labs, kitting them with a couple NICs, installing FreeBSD and selling them for home router/firewall systems. Everything old is new again. That said, modern routers are never CPU constrained as described and they use way less power than a PC. Don’t do this.
2:25 Pro tip(no kidding I actually work with networking with my ISP): don’t ever buy a cheap switch, it’s gonna cause you a lot of headaches, you don’t have to buy a really expensive one either, I’m not sure about the princing in dollars, but try out the ones from TP-Link, they’re the ones I use for my home networking and most of them are plug and play, so you won’t have to set up them(some even have a admin screen you can configure, but for most people it’s not really worth it)
Outside of a medium sized business, you’re never going to need the power of a full-blown pc for your routing. Unless you already have an old pc, you’re better off with anything in openwrt’s recommended routers section; cheaper, lower power and less work to maintain. When your existing router is failing you, it’s normally due to specific parts being cheaped out on to meet low price points, causing bufferbloat and other similar problems rather that the concept of a low power soc being a poor.
There is even better solution – use some kind PC with at least 2 LAN interfaces to run Proxmox and under that you can run VM of pfsense as well as NAS, OwnCloud, Plex of whatever you need and your hardware can handle. Theoretically you can run pfsense with Proxmox through only one LAN interface, but this way you will need L2 switch for tagging and untagging packts, which will cost you way more than LAN card 🙂 But if you are technologically crazy – I highly recommend to install at least 6U RACK Cabinet with 24 ports L2 switch, Patch and management panels, rackmount UPS and small rackmount server… and LTT could really do this project to show people how to set up strong home network infrastructure for reasonable price 🙂
This makes me really want to make a server rack containing my Plex server, a “cloud” backup drive, diy wifi router, MC server, and a bunch of other stuff. I have enough spare hardware lying around to do it, but it seems even the smaller server racks and cases are expensive if I can even get away with using traditional PC hardware. I’d be better off stacking all the towers I have sideways 🙁
“…will run circles around your old router, and will be a hack of al lot more reliable, and nicer to look at….” “AND consume a lot of more power 24/7”. I would argue that for most people a router (maybe not the ISP one, but a better after market one) is the better choice. If you like to tinker around and don’t care about downtimes because you missconfigured something than obviously building your own is a viable option 🙂