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📹 L. Reuteri Yogurt | Best Kefir Alternative for Gut Health
Disclaimer: I am not a doctor or dietician. The information in this video is based on my personal experiences and independent …
📹 The Secret to Getting a Perfect Paint Finish with no Brush Marks
*Register ASAP! Spots limited Leah demonstrates how to use oil paint in combination with a a paint conditioner to get a smooth, …
As many people have asked: What yogurt maker is that? What type of milk are you using? Raw, A2, ??? I have watched many of your other articles and your were using raw milk. Also, can goat milk be used? Does it make a difference when fermenting for 36 hours which type of milk to use. Please let all of us know who have posed these questions. Thank you for all your “free” information. So many people suffer from IBD and dont have the income to hire a private coach and pour over articles to get the information that will heal us.
I’ve been making this yogurt for more than a year and it’s great. Very good health benefits. I had a few failed batches recently which had almost no taste after using my well practised method that worked great before. Eventually I worked out the quantity of L Reuteri in the BIOGAIA tablets varies a lot with some of them having almost no L Reuteri so it did not matter how much I tried these batches would not work. Fortunately I had some nice tart L Reuteri yogurt in my fridge from earlier batches which I then used as seed for more yummy tart yogurt. It appears that the manufacturing process of the tablets is inconsistent with some tablets having such a low culture count the result after 36 or even 42 hours was just tasteless and flat.
Love your website, thanking you for your info as IBD is quite alienating to deal with. After fiddling with all kinds of makers and methods, I finally broke down and ordered a yogurt maker from Luvele which was around $100 but worth every penny. I use ultra pasteurized half and half and potato starch and set it to 100 degrees. Got info from Donna Schwenk cultured food life.
Thanks for the article! You will get no separation when you use some of that first batch to make the second. With subsequent batches the microbe count can go down so I make a batch from the tablets and freeze multiple 2 TBS amounts as starter for next batches. When I am out of that, I begin again with tablets!
I have suffered this disease from 2019 when I have my endoscopy but from last year the condition was worse I had frequently diarrhea and bloody stool,I lost weight but since I started cabbage juice in August and cutting all fatty foods am now free, I went to check H-pylori it’s now negative the only thing I want is how to maintain the weight cz to find these kefir and some yoghurt ingredients in my country it’s not easy.Thanks so much Kenny for all your vedios now I have started exercises and I feel much relief,Rice and chicken in a small portion has been a best meal for two months now I have added banana and avocado smoothies and plain yoghurt
Thank you for this, I’m currently recovering from severe ulcerative colitis, I’m on the cortisteroid prednisone and through the worst of the flare up. This disease dropped me from 150lbs to 95 in less than two months and most of the loss was muscle mass, turned me into a skeleton and I’m working to build myself back up. Getting probiotics has been a challenge for me so far as in my area shopping options are limited and nowhere at all seems to have kefir, making this a great option. I think I’ll be buying a yogurt maker!
ive tried 10 attempts at making dr davis yoghurt so far, im scalding the milk at 180,im using at a instant pot on 100 for 36 hours, problem is im getting 50% whey,ive tried everything, cannot get any more than 50% whey,ive order all his exact strains,i found a recipee that said use 2 tables spoons of inulium per litre,so im trying that as well .ive tryed everything .only thing different is, i put my 6 litres back in freezer and bring it back to 100 farenheight quicker. any one that has any tips please help, im out of ideas, ive tried adding inulium to the 50% whey and put that on for 36 hours but that doesnt work as well
This is basically making sour cream. There’s barely any milk in it. That’s a lot of cream to eat in one sitting if you’re using 1/2 cup or more at a time. But if it fixes your gut issues it would be worth it. I tried making l reuteri 3 tomes. It’s so inconsistent and picky that I gave up. The first batch with the tablets was the only one that worked. When I tried to use some as starter for the next batch, it was watery and separated. The tablets are too expensive to have to use 10 for each batch. Glad it’s working for you though!😊
🎯Awesome! Way to keep it simple, heck even I can do this. THANK YOU=) ?Question? (if you have a minute)~Any chance I can get the brand name of that handy dandy little yogurt maker? We’re fulltime in our tiny RV, so space is premium~ that guy looks perfect. *If no mortar & pestle, tablets crush nicely in a zip lock freezer bag w/a rolling pin. =)🎯
Is it supposed to taste fermented? I did this exact method, except a friend gave me some of their already made yogurt as a starter. It seperated out in nice thick layers with whey in between. I could actually see air bubbles coming from the bottom of the glass and moving up from whatever the bacteria was doing. It has a strong smell, not bad, just strong, and a /strong/ tangy taste. It tingles on the tongue, and has notes of bread/cheese. It’s oddly addicting actually, but I’m afraid to eat it as I’ve never made it before and don’t want to poison myself. (You know, the whole dying = bad and living = not as bad thing). Hoping someone could help me figure out if it’s safe to eat or not. It has a thick, almost cheesecake like texture.
I got IBS from a doctor!!! – an integrative doctor who treated Lymes disease with antibiotics long term until I got diarrhea from antibiotics, about 3 months later. Then she tried to treat IBS with one after another expensive “supplements” that she sold … none of which did anything but make things worse. (The supplements were all based on plants and fiber.)Then I started losing more and more foods due to having attacks of 911 emergencies to the bathroom within 30-45 minutes after eating and became very restricted. (If I needed to leave the house, I just wouldn’t eat until I got home. Thank goodness I work from home!) She told me to use Imodium. 😢 Stopped paying out of pocket to her after thousands of dollars… Now I’m searching here for help – and without extra funds (spent it all on that doctor) Tried 30 day strict Carnivore and that stopped the pain and cramping (which was daily 7/10) and I’m super grateful for that. After 3 weeks of carnivore, frequency of BMs returned to my normal of once daily in the morning, but still not formed stools, but improving. Don’t need Imodium any more. I added rice and then potatoes after 5 weeks and still doing ok. Getting formed stools some times, but not all the way back to normal. Still restricted diet – still not eating fruit or veg yet. “Super Gut” by Dr. Davis is looking like the next good place to go. Going to try that L. Reuteri superbiotic yogurt to repopulate my gut with healthy bacteria. Got the book and the probiotic tablets.
Folks. I’m going to make a article for a much easier method of making L. reuteri yogurt. The easiest way to make L. reuteri yogurt is to purchase the BioGaia Osfortis Capsules, and/or the BioGaia ProDentis Drops. These two products contain different strains, but it’s way easier than crushing up capsules. After you pasteurize your milk, and let it cool, you simply add one osfortis capsule, or about half a bottle of prodentis. Put this into your yogurt maker for 24 hours at 100 degrees. The final product will be a cheese like material, and whey. Eat the cheese, and save the whey for the next step. Again pasteurize your milk, and let it cool. This time add yogurt starter containing S. thermophilus. I use GI Prohealth yogurt starter. In addition, add about a teaspoon of L. reuteri whey from the first step. Put this into your yogurt maker for 24 hours at 100 degrees. You end up with the most amazing yogurt completely full of L. reuteri. The S. thermophilus also provides health benefits. This stuff makes my skin super smooth, and almost totally normalizes my gut. If you read the research on L. reuteri you will see why. The one main drawback I get from L. reuteri yogurt is it causes me to get pretty bad headaches. The L. reuteri creates loads of histamine in your gut, which is anti-inflammatory in your gut, but leads to vasodilation, and headaches. The headaches mean the L. reuteri is working.
Question: I have been making this yogurt for the last few months and I enjoyed it a lot. But I have noticed my recent patches getting more sour and sour! Not sure if this is normal or a problem. Anyone had this issue? Every time I make a new yogurt, I use a spoon or two from the previous patch. If it keeps getting more sour, I may start from the beginning using the pills for starters instead of yogurt from previous patches.
Are use 2 tablespoons of my already made L. Reuteri 1/2&1/2 and I too like mine think real thick so I use 3/4 1/2&1/2 1/4 heavy cream. I make popsicle with this and kombucha I make for some grandkids I’ll use blueberry other’s strawberry and one loves it mixed with cocoa powder & another prefers it with peanut butter powder. Im w carnivore so I love mine plain. On occasion I’ll add a little vanilla bean. Oh I garden and ferment any veggies I eat occasionally. When I run out of my own strawberries or blueberries I go yo my local farmers market. For my firs I’ve used potato starch. Im trying to research to see is I can use Cassava or banana flower for inulin prebiotic
We use our dehydrator to make homemade yoghurt, as it keeps the temperature perfect. Set if for 110F. I always use full fat raw A2 milk and some organic live yogurt mixed in. But I learned it that yogurt bacteria will not manage to settle and colonise in our gut, so I make sure to use homemade full fat raw A2 kefir as well. The kefir’s bacterias will settle and spread. But it is important to start with yoghurt first, as the die off reactions can be crazy from kefir to start with, if you are not used to it. If you have terrible die off reactions even from yoghurt, try only a very small amount, like a drop a day only, mixed in some cool chicken stock.
Hey Kenny, I’m 21 years old and was sadly diagnosed with colitis. I at first thought it was a hernia due to a bump on my stomach forming but when they did a CT scan they found colitis in my colon. I have a rare heart disease and lots of stomach issues. I’ve been in and out of hospitals my whole life. They put me on a antibiotic called Levofloxacin 500mg. Do you have any experience with this medication and if so I’d like to hear back from you? I’ve heard it could cause many issues as well as other types of colitis. Why would they proscribe that to me if that’s a possibility?
Hi Honnas, i am UC patient for 2 years and i started going to gym but I am quite hesitant of taking protein powders. Can you tell me if it’s fine to take and which brand should I trust? The reason why I want to take protein powder is because I don’t eat red meat and follow very restricted diet which makes very difficult for me to eat and get protein from food.
Please can you tell us what are the benefits or why you changed these ingredients from Dr Davis’ The reason I’m asking is because he says that if one uses milk the bacteria in the regular milk will compete with l reuteri and it won’t multiply as much as if it is with ultra pasteurized cream. I have been following your kefir instructions and I had started dr Davis’ yogurt but i just found this article. Please reply. thanks
:face-fuchsia-tongue-out:you can eat DAIRY! i have ulcerative colitis since 2014 went in remission in 2018 and had a recent flare in april 2023 what are the tables? i never heard of them before i am on mesalamine 1.2g and coming off prednisone finally!!!:face-fuchsia-poop-shape: thanks for your post and website :face-red-heart-shape:
First time i made it i even sanitized everything and ended up yellow and smelled like cheese. Had to boil everything, keep things covered, pasturize milk and inuline, constantly spray things down with alcohol, avoid breathing over it ect. People online say the yellow is the fat. But the 2nd time in much more sterile conditions, there was no yellow and it tasted delicious with no cheese smell or taste. Imo, this process needs to be much tighter controlled. I even equalized all temps to 100 before combining, and use waterbath
I have tried making it twice & had it not turn out both times. My chooks got it the first time. The second failed batch I’m pressing into cheese. I am in Australia so, cannot source ultra pasteurised milk but I heated my milk to 180 f then cooled it down to 100 f before adding to inulin & crushed tablets. I used my sous vide set to 100 f for 36 hours. I have 10 more tablets left so, I will try again. Frustrating when it appears easy to make but I can’t seem to make it…
I’d be very cautious with this. I got food poisoning in 2015 after eating locally fermented yogurt I purchased from Whole Foods. They told me it was the best they had, everyone was raving about it, definitely the way to go. Thank goodness I only ate about an inch of it from the jar. I began to get ill within the first day. I made the connection with the yogurt and stopped eating it immediately. Had I eaten the whole container, I most assuredly would have died. Here I am 9 years later struggling to live a normal life. I feel sick almost everyday. Guard your health closely. It is your most valuable possession. I would suggest not playing around with with fermented foods. They are touted as the holy grail, they were the Holy Grail to illness for me. I hope this helps someone💖
After perusal the article advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans youtube.com/post/UgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the article. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
I was scared of using oil, but I had a project so I did it. I was AMAZED at how easy it was to clean my brushes! Latex takes forever to clean up and uses tons of water. The oil came right out with a small amount of mineral spirits. Latex is marketed for easier clean up, but my own experience was different. You do a wonderful job explaining the details. Thank you.
Leah You are correct bout flood product. I used to work in a paint store 30 yrs ago as mechanic repairing spray paint equip, had to learn bout paint ( Benjamin Moore) & ( Morewear ) learned alot. Painters gave lots of tips . Oil is the best Brush choice is very important . Great article. Great explanation
Great article, had new windows placed about a year ago with a new sill. Wood has split, but have repaired, bare wood and now I will be using Oil Based paint, this article is spot on, and just have to pick up Penetrol Paint Conditioner. The outcome is fantastic. Thank you for sharing your knowledge & experience. Ernest
On Nantucket, with harsh weather of salty air and wind with extremely cold temperatures in the winter, I have used oil base paint with Penetrol for consistent durability when I used to paint my Mom’s trim. For staining I like the Australian Timber Oil that Cabot sells for an exterior deck. However they have different stain products depending on your wood situation. And thank you for a very thorough presentation.
Back in the olden days we used oil-based primers mostly and when we used them we added almost a one-to-one ratio of penetrol to primer to allow the primer to soak deep into the grain of the wood giving a very long-lasting paint job one of the reasons why paint feels off a house is because it’s not sitting into the wood it’s sitting on the wood
when I first saw the thumbnail for this article I thought “here we go again” but this was great advice, I spent many years painting in the Royal palaces in London and we only ever used oil based paint, I have never heard of paint conditioner, we use white spirit that does the same job (I presume) we also use a spirit/oil based undercoat, instead of a tack cloth we use a lint free rag with white spirit and like you a 240 or 220 grit paper which is sometimes called “inbetween coats” I started out many years ago with pure bristle brushes but synthetic brushes have come a long way, I no longer waste money on Purdey brushes as they have been left behind and no longer represent goood value, I also use a dewalt blower to remove the bulk of the dust before I wipe down as it saves so much time especially with sash windows, we also use an oil based primer before the undercoat and generally do two top or finish coats, the only real difference is that I would not put so much paint on in one go as oil tends to run or vertical surfaces if you are not careful so prefer two top coats. our big box stores here in the UK no longer sell oli based paints but they are still available from proper paint suppliers, also in the UK we do not call water-based paints “latex” though they may be latex paints, I do not like them as they ruin my brushes, but great article with real advice for a change.
I love the finish you get with oil-based paints. And honestly, the VOC (smell) is something that let’s me know that the project finish will last for a long time. Originally growing up and living in California, it was disappointing to see oil-based paint get some stigmatized. But now living elsewhere in the country over the last 25 years, I’ve been free to use oil-based paints for specific jobs and not worry about its quality or availability. Great article!
This was by far the best tutorial I have seen on YouTube in recent memory! I have several doors I need to repaint and I was nervous because I never used oil based paint before. After perusal this article am now confident to tackle this project. Thank you so much!! BTW- I am now your newest subscriber to your website 😉
Since owning my own home, I’ve truly missed the high gloss trim of my childhood. I never knew oil paint was proper way to achieve that amazing finish. Glad I’m only one room into redoing the flooring and trim of my house…will switch up the trim paint to oil! Thank you for the detailed process! Much appreciated!
With nearly 40yrs of being a journeyman painter craftsman, now retired, the best product that you can use for wood trim without using Flood Penetrol, is Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo oil based paint. It does not pull and lays down easy and leaves no brush marks at all. The only time I used Flood’s Penetrol, along with a little mineral spirits, was when I sprayed the wood instead of brushing. Enjoy your vids.
Thank you. You’ve just made me look smart in under 5 minutes. Flipping houses, which after being a operations director in the food service industry went south because of Covid should tell you I’m terrible at it. However, I am a perfectionist at heart, so I don’t do anything half assed. This is huge and is an inexpensive way to take a 💩 an flip it into something beautiful
Thx Leah, my mom is a professional artist. I grew up with turpentine as a condiment. Lol, my late father in law was a professional decorator in London. His painting was art . His house interior painting was repainted frequently. IT LOOK LIKE CLASS OR SPRAYED ON. Quality brushes along with the sanding and chemistry are IMPERATIVE! Excellent article ( again) ❤️
Thank you sooo much! I am buying an old farmhouse that hast panel doors. I wanted to paint them with a beautiful glossy finish. I have use latex enamel finish ( which is not very easy to use. Requires some effort). But still knew I would not quite get the finish I wanted. Never knew OIL paint is the exact finish I was looking for. So thank you. Am also going to paint the old kitchen cabinets. I think oil paint is the ticket for them too. To get a durable and scrubable finish that will last. Again- THANK- YOU!
years ago I helped someone paint a commercial building that had a lot of flat metal doors, We used oil paint, and added Penetrol to it. We rolled the doors to get the paint on fast, then brushed those doors out to get rid of the nap marks roller leave behind. Brushing helped smooth out the paint, but that Penetrol allowed the oil paint to flow like glass, and it did.You could almost see up your nose. It was great. Oil is great for smooth glass like surfaces like woodwork. Just remember to stroke out your last brush marks with long strokes to even it out.
Hi Leah, I’m so happy I found your website. I’m not working anymore but I like perusal you. I can just tell that you are a beautiful soul! I once had to paint an entire house with oil paint. I was alone so it took me a week. I had to wear a mask with air filters on each.side. Bynthe.time I was done my nose.was bruised so bad and I had 2 black eyes. Oh… The memories! I was so proud of how awesome it looked but I’ll never forget the smell. 😂
Having painted for a number of years, remember, that preparation is the most important aspect of any paint job. You are building on a good base if a properly prepared surface is available. Use quality paint too ( cheap paint will not last as long as a quality paint will) – spend the extra buck$ to purchase the best paint with. Work your paint into your wood – it requires time but the finish job will last a long time. Be patient and watch the weather for rain ( goes bad when you use Latex-based paints ). Never apply your paint when the ambient temperature is cold ( 50 degrees F” or more is the best ). Hot surfaces from the sun will effect the paint too.
Lol I’m perusal this on my bed and my husband is sleeping right beside me. So, when you started the sanding machine, my instinc was to quicly lower the volume… Then, I realised that I have my headsets on with already very low volume 😄😄😄… Thanks for the demystification of the oil paint. It seemps the best option for the wood (interior) surounding the windows.
The VOC is the solvent liquid that evaporates in order for the paint to dry, leaving the solid pigment behind. Like dissolves like so oil based paints require some kind of petroleum liquid that is volatile enough that it will evaporate, like how gasoline evaporates, or acetone, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc. Whereas water based paints require far less solvent and one that mixes with water, which alcohol does very well (alcohol is interesting as it mixes with both water and oil) and evaporates quickly with very low odor and can be thinned with water.
When I was a little girl my Father allowed me to paint my bedroom every year. Coral one year, eggshell another year, even battleship gray when my brother enlisted… it was always oil paint. My Dad was big on preparation so everything turned out perfectly. This is so cool. (Seems to me we called it enamel)
thank you so much! I have to paint a 3/4 thick plywood, and want it to be able to take a light shower outside, but would keep indoors and would dry off it outside (its a wood telescope cart). I want to paint it shiny black, with a red compass design over it. I love oil paint. Should I prime with Zissner cover up oil base primer and what should I use for the glossy black and colors on top? I would let each layer dry, and then want to varnish. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you so much, love your website.
The oil also lasts a hell of lot longer, and therefore less repaints. Particularly in trim but painting walls and walls of that inside is not healthy without significant ventilation and breaks. Sticks to doors, cabinets, trim. Paint outside if you cant without dust around. And just put floetrol in latex to get the oil like finish if you’re sensitive or in canada where oil is pretty much banned. (If you’re in canada, you probably are sensitive).
Leah I just discovered you. I live in a fancy new apt ppl move out out and leave awesome TVs. So I learned wiring stuff. Fyi I am a trained in art but never got to do oils. They work in reverse that watercolor does and they frustrate me. Landlord maintenance guys do a crap job painting trim boards. Also they ditched the tanning bed, made it into a package room. Grrr.
I wished I saw this article before I bought a ton of paint for my trim. They really mark up the gloss on water based paint, when I could have just bought oil. The concern is painting over old paint though, if they used water based paint before, I don’t think I can use oil unless I completely sand it off.
Left out one critical step, straining the paint, there are little particles showing up in the reflection. However, I do not or have not used a tack cloth and I always have a nice smooth surface after sanding but spray over again to cover up bare timber, will try not to reseal after sanding, dunno, maybe try on a small section of house, never seen oil paint cover unsealed timber.
I was hoping it would be a article about how to remove brush marks in latex paints. I just painted a floating desk in clear gloss and honestly, I’m going to have to sand it and try again because you can clearly see brush marks and it’s not very glossy even if you look at it at an angle. I’ve used marine varnishes on timber before and it looked like wood under glass. this just looks like textured wood.
Since maybe 1970 I have been listening to paint salesmen tell me that latex paint has improved since I last used it. It has, but it still has serious shortcomings when it comes to fine finishing. Beyond what is mentioned in the article, oil (or alkyd) paint sets hard. It doesn’t stay soft like latex. Also, once it has dried, it doesn’t stick to other plastic or painted surfaces like latex does, and you won’t be able to peel it off the previous coating with your fingernail. The one that surprised me about this article is that it omitted anything about brush cleanup. Partly because of its slower set time, oil paint can be more completely removed from brushes than can latex. It may require two or three rinses with mineral spirits, but my bristle brushes used with oil last until they are actually worn out. My brushes used with latex accumulate paint that will not dissolve with warm soapy water or mineral spirits even with working, agitating, and combing them repeatedly. It clogs the intentionally frayed ends of synthetic bristles reducing the ability of the brush to hold and smoothly spread paint. There may be times when you can’t avoid using latex paint on trim work, and it is fine for many other applications. But I say buy more alkyd! Use it as Leah recommends for all trims and doors, lest manufacturers make it even less available and more expensive. You will be pleased with the results despite the extra cost, smell, cleanup trouble, and drying time.
Oil base will yellow sooner than you think, there are oil resin hybrids that dry quick, flow smooth and dry very hard. Waterborne advanced tech waterborne paints have come a long way. The hybrids behave like oil base as they have better adhesion and a somewhat chemical adhesion, unlike a basic non hybrid water base. Waterbase can flow out very well depending on technique. Waterbase is way more flexible over trim board outside that expand and contract. Water base has better color retention with darker colors that are exposed to sunlight. Oil base paints will chalk over time. Ive seen waterbase enamels touch up easier over 43 years as a custom painting contractor.
I’m a painter and all I use is oil based paint for trim. However, I have to disagree with the type of brush she used. I use a white China Bristle brush when painting oil paint. I’ve had numerous people over the years ask if I sprayed my trim work because they couldn’t see any brush marks. When I tell them it’s brushed, they are amazed. The only thing I used Black China Bristle brushes for is staining, sealing and polyurethane.
Thank you for this! I have an Ikea gate-leg table that definitely needs repainting. I have the solid birch version of the table and had painted the surface and drawer fronts with acrylic paint and then coated it in several layers of poly because I’m sensitive to strong smells, but I see that going with oil is definitely worth it for the end results. Because, even though I had stripped the the factory poly off and prepped the entire table, over time chunks chipped out of the paint. I had hand painted a large mandala on the top of the table which took over a month of work. I’ve been hesitant to repaint because how upsetting it was that all my hard work had been ruined over time. I will definitely be using oil paint on the legs and the drawers. The top of the table is going to get an epoxy resin pour to look like the ocean.
The theory is sound, but in reality it takes years of practice to master oils on vertical, rather than horizontal surfaces. Besides, they are toxic and extremely messy. There are acrylic enamels out there these days that will do a similar job with only a slight reduction in gloss level. Also, AEs will not crack or yellow over time
I fell in love with oil paint last year. I acquired a quart for free at our industrial waste dump. They give so many items per month to use up what others don’t want..leftovers from projects. It’s “self leveling” so the brush marks disappear. I love the finish and its so easy to clean! Its perfect for kitchen cabinets, door and window trim as well as baseboards. If you are the one who cleans your home, you will appreciate the work saving properties. I will use latex/waterbase on ceilings but only semigloss or satin goes on the walls. Never flat. Oil paint repells dirt and grime but flat absorbs it ehisc makes it miserable for cleaning. I’ve never tried oil flat so I can’t speak to that.
Everyone who thinks the entire country is racist, sexist, and age(ist) should read all the comments about Leah!!! Respectful, complimentary, cheering, grateful, and the list goes on!! She’s brilliant and a gifted teacher and knows her trade — and that’s what people are seeing — and telling her!!! This just elevated my view of the world we live in … while improving my next paint job!!
I love using oil for woodwork. I’m using this article to explain this to homeowners. Oil paint lasts so much longer that it’s practical to buy it even though it’s more expensive. Oil paint protects woodwork from more than just moisture, etc, Oil paint is like putting armor on your woodwork. It will stand up in a battle with kids pets and time.
Very informative article and thanks for posting. I never knew about using oil paint conditioner to take out the drag. I had always added a little paint thinner and had good results. What turned me off to using oil based paints is the cleanup part. I used oil on our kitchen cabinets and although it was a major undertaking, it was worth it. Super durable, easy to keep clean. When I use latex paint for painting trim, I always add a little bit of water to thin it out so it gets rid of the drag. Is there something else that you use to thin out latex?
Love the way you explain things Leah, wish I was that engaging with my subscribers. 🙂 We used penetrol mostly to get enamels to flow better in very cold climates, other than that, we didn’t need it for a mirror finish. I might add, enamels (oil paints) don’t absorb into the wood at all. That’s a big no no and the very reason one must use an undercoat first, to allow the enamel to ‘flow’, it must be allowed to sit on the surface without absorbing into anything. The ability for enamels to flow is what allows the applicator to achieve a mirror (if one is using a gloss finish) like finish and for diys, is the reason why so many can’t use it and complain about runs and sags. In effect, enamels continue to move (flow) after one is finished but it’s why it produces such a nice finish. Keep up the great articles 🙂
I love your articles. I do maintenance for a nursing home and literally was handed the keys day one and said figure it out but every single time I’ve needed help you are always the one I can go to for help. Really wish I had someone like you to work with me to teach me the ropes vs me figuring out through trial and lots lots lots of error lol
For 35 years I’ve been a painting contractor on the Jersey shore and I’ve seen it all. Her article is spot on. What is missing are some tips to make your acrylic (We don’t call it latex anymore) trim enamels level out better is by adding a dry time extender such as Xim. The longer it stays wet the better it levels. Your other option is to use an oil modified acrylic enamel which when done looks just like it was done in oil. The Sherwin Wms, Cashmere is as good as it gets, expensive as hell but worth it. Soap and water clean up. Whatever paint you use always use the best grade brushes such as Purdy and Woosters as they will out last all the rest. You get what you pay for.
Does anyone know how to get rid of those “pimple like” bumps? Now what I do is use 400+ sandpaper over those spots (for example you can see them around 7:33 mark) and then repaint them. However sometimes it takes me 5-10 runs to get rid of all. It does take like 5 minutes after 3rd hand but it’s annoying having to wait for so many days to finish. When I use 2000 grit paper it has glass surface. However, it loses it’s shine. So is there maybe some polish that can return shine? I saw them polish certain tables but most of them were epoxy based and I have no idea whether it would work here. I would try it already but no idea what polish to get. People who sell it in my parts don’t use it like that and they are just saying put 2 coats and that’s it.
I loved your very informative article on “oil based paint”! Thank you. I do have a question for you. I recently cut out large, i.e. (7″ tall, 6″ wide, and 1-1/2″) thick Address numbers from plywood for our home. I wanted them to be very bright, so I painted them with door frame/trim paint which did not work, so I painted them with exterior grade paint (swiss coffee color). The end result was not what I wanted, and I am wondering if using an “Oil Based – (White Paint)” would make our “address numbers” shine bright, and make them pop? I would be extremely grateful for any, and all tips from you to get the desired result.
HI LEAH. I’M IN DESPERATE NEED OF HELP! 😭 I’m on my 3rd go round. I have flipped all the furniture in my lil sewing room. Finally a gift to myself right😃 However, I’ve painted n sanded repeatedly with a high gloss indoor outdoor. I realize after all the cost I was absolutely given bad advice 🥴 so I’m told use this triple thick polyethylene on top for that high gloss finish. This is a be a table with use. Well, I sanded before a coat n or was umm not what I wanted but this was the second can add id sanded back to paint after first can 2 applications ended up a mess. Ok, we learn the hard way sometimes. As i couldn’t resist touching in one spot to fix a lil issue yes yes all bad. So like I said I went back to the drawing board for second coat paid out. Next day to realize they’re are lil bumps poking up everywhere. I nearly cried n burned the hole table 😭 😢 but I only have a lil polyethylene left. I know God n well I’ll need to spend money on yet another can😳😱 i was on a budget but that’s destroyed at this point. So I’m standing here looking at this gorgeous white table that’s been sanded with a 1000 for a silky smooth finish BUT! DO I NEED TO ROUGH IT UP WITH 220 BEFORE APPLICATION OF TO COAT OR DO I .. NOPE YOU JUST SAID 220 OK I’LL GO GET MORE OF THAT BUT. WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND FOR THE GLASSY TO COAT. ( honestly this project is in my house I have no where else to do it but what ever it takes right! I heard someone say use the polyethylene /acrylic i believe it was.
Hi Jane, just a few things. You keep saying OIL PAINT, IT IS NOT OIL PAINT, it is oil based paint. Second you should never use an electric sander on anything but flat surfaces, You sanded the above profile slightly flat. Also with oil base paint you need A NATURAL BRISTLE BRUSH (China bristles) are best. And when using Flood paint addictives, pls point out there are 2 additives : Penetrol for oil base and Flotrol for water base. I really enjoy your website. Keep up your teaching.
Absolutely love your articles, straight to the meat and potatos. I finished a huge kitchen cabinet repaint project on a reno home. Your articles were the most helpful that I came across. I will say one thing, if you recommend something, that is exactly what I am going to do. You are truly an artist with your work. Thanks for the HPLV article, my cabinets came out looking perfect!!!!
It wasn’t until I’d watched this article a second time that I realized something. Leah (God bless her) isn’t just using oil paint. She’s using VERY NICE oil paint. Very expensive oil paint. Fine Paints of Europe, aka FPOE is freaking amazing paint, but just realize this stuff is like $250 a gallon. $75 a liter.
Leah, thanks for your great informative articles, and, your CAN DO attitude. I’ve had a few painters to do small jobs to see what their finished quality was like. I was not happy, with thend results and also their sloppy clean up. So I decided to paint my window areas myself. So far I love the results. It is an old house from the 1950’s, and new life is being put back into it.
Hi Jane, I saw this article years ago, but I was using latex then, and bought the Flood for Latex which also works well with Acrylic Paint. Zinsser Latex Extender did not work well with Acrylic Paint. The Zinsser kept separating and I had to keep mixing every 5 minutes. I can’t buy Penetrol Flood for oil paints anywhere. I was able to buy a little 2.5 oz bottle of Winsor Newton Artists’ painting medium for Oil Paint. I might have 200 feet of trim to paint. How far do you think my little bottle will get me.? I believe it is made of Linseed. What did we use in the good old days before Brand Names? Thanks so much!!! You are always an inspiration to me. Especially now that I am Widow. Hubby, “Sudden Cancer.” 3 Weeks and gone. Six months and I am still in shock.
Does anyone pre-wet or condition their natural bristle\\ox hair brush with anything before going into the oil paint? My brush is a Corona Ox slim which has the same natural bristle components as the article (hog and ox ear hair) but it doesn’t look as tidy hers! When dry, and before use, my bristles are more bushy and flare out. But once I get them into some oil or varnish, everything tidys up and the shape of the bristles come to a nice tapered edge. Also no issues during painting. I still get nice clean strokes. It just dries bushy -even though I hang dry, comb it, and store in the cardboard keeper. Doesn’t look very neat no matter what I do, the bristles just do their own thing when dry. Just wondering if this is normal for it to dry bushy (unlike in the article) and if anyone conditions their brush with any products before going into the oil paint? Thank you for the responses!
I’m perusal this for the SECOND time, since her instruction worked so beautifully when I painted my metal front door and used the Flood additive. My front door gets all kinds of praise – glossy, no shadows or lines – just super sharp looking. I am now preparing to paint the interior of a new (white) patio door – painting it black using oil, since the door gets direct sun and the paint needs to be high-heat resistant (i,e., oil!). I can’t tape and spray inside the house, since my wife is very sensitive to aerosol spray fumes. Oil paint offgases too, but not with the same intensity — so THANK YOU, Leah!!!
In NY it is not possible to buy oil paints in larger than 1 quart. Oil paint is also known as alkyd paint. Here we use a lot of of oil modified or waterborne alkyds. Soap and and water clean up, but many qualities of alkyd, namely long open (dry) times but less odor. There are exceptions. Kilz Original is oil based and still available. It has a lower 350 VOC level. Still need ventilation. Can’t imagine the old 500 VOC products were like. Even 40 years ago unavailable in NY. Oil modified generally <100 VOC or latex <50 VOC before tinting. So much less.
Thank You Leah! Question!? I have watched a number of articles on painting OAK GRAIN kitchen cabinets..it is recommended to use a filler first, then prime, sanding in between steps… then paint, light sand, tacking… etc… Can you recommend any more expeditious way, or do I just need to suck it up? Will oil based paint FILL the grain, or do I need to use a filler as well, regardless? Does oil based paint only come in high gloss, or are there other finishes? Flat, satin, semi gloss? Also, I plan on masking off the interior of the cabinets, as I would like to use a gun. I am doing a whole renovation- walls, tin type ceiling, and cabinets… I am not concerned too much about overspray… or should I be? THANK YOU!!!
Thanks for the endorsement for oil-based paint. I bought a house built in 1947 and having a heck of a time getting my point across to my contractors that I WANT oil-based paint, NOT latex. I”ve lost every time. I’m stipping doors now (I have 12 to do) and I WILL paint with oil-based paint this time…since I’ll be doing the painting! lol
Oil paints are great, I used them a lot until acrylic latex came out. On occasion I still use oil occasionally. Mostly for wood coatings like sparkling varnish. Working with oil is a little different. The fumes are tough, and you must take care in sunny or windy days because you can overwork the paint which can cause it to coagulate and leave a poor finish. On my jobs today, if oil is involved, I only allow the better painters to apply the oil. The Penetrol is always a good idea, especially in sunny or windy conditions because it slows the drying time, and does allow a smoother flow. Keep up the good work Jane.
I LOVE oil based paint! As Leah said, you can’t be the smooth shine or the durability — and having time to work with it is priceless! Sadly, you can’t buy oil based paint in California!!!! You’d have to smuggle it in, which I’m most cases isn’t exactly practical. Is there anything you can do to water based paints to get a similar result???? Probably hoping for something that doesn’t exist!
Great article and good advice. Also should stress that VOCs can be toxic and to have plenty of ventilation when using them. I did my first oil paint on some wooden chairs this weekend – BEFORE perusal this article. My first chair wasn’t prepared properly and had a dappled surface, not glass. 2nd and 3rd chairs had the glass-like appearance after I properly prepared the wood (sanding 220 grit) and used a tack cloth. Product I used was the Minwax oil stain & polyurethane. 2 light coats and it was done!
First time I’ve disagreed with Leah: Using Floetrol with latex paint produces results very similar to using Penetrol with oil based paint. It’s made by the same company (Flood). I’ve painted cabinets and doors with it and people have remarked on how “glassy” the finish is: no brush marks, and modern latex paints are exceptionally durable. Leah’s absolutely right about one thing: Use a good brush. Sure, it costs more, but it’s one time when you get what you pay for. Paying $10 or even $20 more at a paint store (not a big box home improvement place) for a superior brush is an investment that will repay you many times over.
Dear Leah, yesterday when I found your fab website, I commented that I couldn’t wait to impress my friends with my newfound knowledge, all from your gorgeous self. Well I might have to slow down, I am being asked to so many parties, not bad if you are young, I’m 70. You are truly an amazing human being, so kind and generous to share with us, the masses, so much. I LOVE IT. Thank you. Sherie😯
New subscriber here!!!!!!! I’m literally binging on your articles because they are absolutely magnificent and so informative!!!!! You’re an excellent instructor!!!!!!! I came across your article series while searching for information on how to smooth out a bumpy surface and up popped your tutorial on RhinoLite. Thank you many times over!!!!!
The advantage of oil paints is that it doesn’t “dry”. Oil paints “cures” by oxidation (reaction with airborne oxygen molecules). We use it extensively in Washington and Oregon where it rains every week and we have high humidity. If someone vandalizes a barn with graffiti we can paint it over IN THE RAIN with nothing but the roof eves keeping the wall dry. So even in rain we get great results with oil paints. Try that with Latex.
Thanks Leah. You are an incredible presenter. I tend to use water based gloss, especially inside the house or in the kid’s room, because there’s no odour. My biggest bugbear is streak lines. They’re not huge, but I tend to load my brush too much…I need more patience obviously. Thanks for the article. Very informative and I didn’t even know you could get a paint conditioner. Take care.
Looks easy on horizontal surfaces. On vertical surfaces (doors, windows, trim) adding Penetrol will increase the open (wet) time meaning you’ll have to watch for drips and sags until it dries. Go easy on the Penetrol. Too much and you’ll be chasing drips and sags for an hour. On finish coats both latex and oil paints stick to the primer not the wood. That’s why you use primer – it sticks to the wood. And for latex paint there’s an equivalent additive called Floetrol. It increases the open (wet) time and allows the paint to level minimizing brush strokes.
Thnx Leah for the tips about oil-based paint conditioner and ox hair bristles. I never heard of either. Hope to incorporate one or both into my upcoming interior wood trim painting. Never see ox hair bristled brushes here in the Piedmont of North Carolina. Nonetheless, I’ve always gotten excellent, glass-like, smooth finishes with high-quality alkyd paint and China bristle brushes (Wooster and Purdy are my favorites for the past 25 years). Will look out for the ox hair brushes as well as the paint conditioner. Thanks for the articles for instruction and confirmation that I “can do this”. 🙂
Great article, but you didn’t show the finished product (other than the dry previous base you had brushed). I could see imperfections since it’s such a high gloss. How do you remove those? Also, does the penetrol cause the paint to dry slower? I’m going to use a oil-based Rust Oleum gloss black on steel. I need to brush it on, and on a vertical surface. Does the penetrol thin the paint even more so and cause runs? Looking for a high gloss smooth finish by using a brush. OR…. would a roller work too? I tried a roller with this paint and it left tiny air bubbles… ruining the finish. Any ideas??
I grew up immersed in high quality construction. We did not worry about carcinogenic materials. But I recently learned I had lung tumors by the 2nd grade. The difference between then an now is we now know about Volatile Organic Compounds. When fine finishes are put up against Childhood Cancers, who cares about brush marks.
Great attitude, wonderful teacher. “You can do this” — what a role model. Thank you. This was really informative. I have been perusal you for a while now. Can’t believe I am just subscribing. What a great comparison. I just wish I could see you paint with the latex paint to avoid brush strokes. I have had three painters paint my trim… why 3? because of the strokes, dust in the paint etc…. I just sanded everything down, tacked off and primed the wood. I am guessing that I have to sand the primer (special stuff to put on wood to prevent it from bleeding – I will prime after this) before putting on the other primer. Then sand again, then paint. So, how do you get the brush strokes out? I have been using a small roller to prevent brush strokes. But, the trim is small and oh what a pain.
Thank you very much for this informative film. I have a question about Kilz (I have Kilz 2). It says on the container that the product can be used for oil based paint. Is it good to use it, and do you need to apply Kilz or any other similar product if you go over the previous layer of oil paint. I changed the ends of Door Jambs in our garage and since I’ll be painting those bottom parts of the door jambs, I think to refresh the existing paint on garage door as well. I painted new parts I replaced w/Kilz, but not sure if apply in on the old paint. Thank you again, very good techniques shown and film.
Very informative article Miss Leah! If you have time, I have a burning question that I could really use an answer for. I’m painting my cabinets and I’ve already primed them using an oil-based primer ( zinser123 stain blocker, basically the expensive stuff) I used my spray gun to apply the primer, but now I’m getting ready to paint within an enamel paint that I believe is water-based. It’s the Behr premium cabinet and trim enamel (semi-gloss) . It says on the paint can to not thin, but it’s very thick and I want to use a spray paint gun to apply the paint nice and evenly with a few coats. Will it ruin the Integrity of the paint if I thin it down with water for spraying? Normally, I would thin down other paints and everything would work out fine. But I’ve never done it with an enamel paint, so I’m not sure if it will mess with the Integrity of the paint. Also, if I can’t spray it through the spray gun, and I use a good brush, will this paint give me a nice even coat since I’ve primed everything already? Or is the only way to get that with an oil-based paint? I almost bought an oil-based paint for the cabinets, but decided since I was already using oil-based for the primer, that I would use water-based for the top coat to make it less messy and easier to clean up. This kitchen project has been a bear to tackle and I’ve been doing it all by myself. So I’m trying to do anything I can to make things a little easier on myself. Also I really like the flow control idea that you talked about in your article.
Oil (Alkyd) paints are very difficult to find in Canada in any variety. Not only are they smelly due to high VOC levels, the manufacturing process is extremely damaging to the environment. They can be manufactured responsibly, but the cost to do so is very high. Might also be worth mentioning that oil paints require mineral spirits (turpentine, varsol…etc.) for clean up of brushes, rollers or other supplies. Oil paint remains the winner for durability for exterior finishes.