Du Rite Auto Body is a reputable auto repair shop in Orange, New Jersey, specializing in collision repairs and paint services. Established in 1963, the company has a team of skilled technicians. However, it is not BBB accredited.
Do Rite Auto Repair is located at 21225 84th Ave S, Kent, WA 98032, and offers expert auto repair services. They are open Monday through Friday from 8:00am to 5:00pm and Saturday from 9:00am to 12:00pm. They are closed on Sundays.
For more information, customers can visit their website or call them at 253-854-1185. They are open Monday through Friday from 8:00am to 5:00pm and Saturday from 9:00am to 12:00pm. They are closed on Sundays.
Du Rite Auto Body is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm and on Saturdays by appointment. They are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 6:00 pm and on Saturdays by appointment. Customers can contact them via phone at 531-8888, email them at [email protected], or stop by their location.
In summary, Du Rite Auto Body is a reputable auto repair shop in Orange, NJ, specializing in collision repairs and paint services. They have a team of skilled technicians and are not BBB accredited. Customers can find reviews, hours, directions, and coupons for their services on The Real Yellow Pages®.
📹 How to Spot a Scam Auto Body Shop
How to spot a scam auto body shop and automotive body repair technician before they work on your car. How not to get scammed …
How long is too long for a car to be in the shop?
The maximum time for a car to be in the shop is 30 days, and any longer than this, you may be eligible for a unit replacement or compensation if your vehicle is still within warranty. If the repair doesn’t solve the issue, you can demand a unit replacement or a complete refund if still within warranty. If your vehicle is outside the warranty, you can transfer it to another mechanic, and you may be entitled to a refund depending on your agreement with the mechanic.
Who is the largest auto parts supplier in the world?
MarkLines Co., Ltd. has compiled a FY2022 ranking of automotive parts suppliers, with Bosch as the world’s largest supplier and Denso as the second largest. ZF, Hyundai Mobis, and Magna follow in order. Sales growth for all companies remained consistent due to the COVID pandemic’s effects. CATL, however, moved up to sixth place due to increased battery demand. The top five auto parts suppliers by revenue in FY2022 were unchanged from the previous year. The trend towards recovery from the pandemic has resulted in sales growth for all companies.
How do I file a complaint against an auto repair shop in PA?
There are four main ways to file a complaint against an auto repair shop: send a demand letter, file a BBB complaint, file in small claims, or file a complaint with a government agency. A free tool powered by AI can help create a demand letter, which outlines the problem, desired action, and deadline for the repair shop to take. It’s essential to try multiple methods to resolve your issue with the auto repair shop.
How long can a mechanic legally keep your car to fix in the UK?
The UK doesn’t have a legal limit on how long a mechanic can keep your car, but the work should be completed within a reasonable period, especially if you and your family rely on your vehicle. Effective communication and clear expectations are essential for a prompt repair. If the repair time seems excessive, discuss it with the mechanic or seek advice on next steps. Most mechanics will be happy to offer clarity and keep you updated on the process.
Why is it taking so long for my car to be repaired?
Repair shops often face backlogs of cars waiting for repair, which can cause delays due to factors like damage severity and availability of parts. If you’re stuck waiting for your car to be fixed after a serious accident, hiring a personal injury lawyer can help navigate the insurance claims process and ensure you receive the compensation you deserve. For more information, call 844-CAR-WREX, which helps people injured in car accidents and provides guidance and support during this difficult time.
How many auto body shops are there in the United States?
As of 2023, the United States has 107, 857 businesses engaged in the repair and maintenance of automotive bodies, representing a 1. 6-fold increase from 2022.
How long is it OK to leave a car?
Experts recommend driving your car every two to three weeks to maintain its running condition. It’s best not to leave your vehicle unused for more than two weeks. To prevent unnecessary repairs, start it up and drive it for 15-30 minutes a few times within the month. Leaving your car unused for three months is not ideal as the battery could die within this time. To prevent battery drainage, start the vehicle and drive it for 10 miles every couple of weeks when not in regular use. The car battery lasts only four to eight weeks without a charge.
How long should I expect my car to be in the body shop?
The car collision repair process involves several steps, including ordering parts, conducting a secondary inspection, repairing the car, repainting and refinishing, and final checks. After receiving approval from your insurance provider, the repair shop orders the necessary parts and conducts a secondary inspection to check for potential additional repairs. This process is necessary as not all damage may be immediately visible during the initial assessment.
Mechanical repairs take 2-7+ days to complete, starting with structural damage. Minor repairs typically take 48 to 72 hours, while major repairs, such as suspension, engine, drivetrain issues, frame damage, or electrical system repairs, can take a week or more. Repainting and refinishing can take between a few hours and multiple days depending on damage and paint availability.
Finally, the car undergoes a final inspection, test drive, and may be cleaned and detailed. After passing the shop’s quality control process, the car is ready for pickup and a walk-through of the repairs. Factors affecting the repair time include the type of damage, the severity of the impact, and the availability of paint and paint.
How long is too long for my car to be in the shop?
The maximum legal time for a mechanic to keep a car for repair is approximately 30 days. This is particularly important for new or old cars, as repairs can be time-consuming and require waiting for access to the car. If the dealership has been holding the car for too long, it is crucial to understand your rights and the maximum reasonable time for a dealer to hold the car under repair. Resolving car problems quickly and efficiently is the best way to resolve them, especially if the car is still under warranty.
How long is too long for a warranty repair?
A mechanic can legally keep your car for repair for up to 30 days, which is the maximum time under warranty for a dealership to diagnose and resolve your car’s problems. This timeframe can be cumulative and may be the result of multiple trips to the mechanic. Beyond this time, you may be eligible for compensation depending on your state. Factors affecting the length of time a mechanic can hold your car for repair include the severity of the damage, availability of spare parts, and the repair shop’s queue.
How many people work for The Body Shop?
The Body Shop, founded in 1976 by Dame Anita Roddick in Brighton, England, began as a small shop selling quality skincare products in refilled bottles. Today, it has grown into a global retail business, serving over 30 million customers worldwide, employing 10, 000 people and 12, 000 in its franchise team. With around 3, 000 stores in over 70 countries, The Body Shop exports innovative products, campaigns, and an ethical business approach. The success of The Body Shop can be attributed to its inspirational people and commercial instincts.
📹 All Steps of the Auto Body Repair Process – Start to Finish
Shows every step from start to finish of the auto body repair process that every dent, scratch or chip must go through. Tools …
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Hey Scotty, I work for Enterprise Car Rental, and being that 70% of our business is insurance replacement rentals, you hit the nail on the head with every point. I’ve been with the company for about 4 years, and I’ve seen reputable, quality body shops and shops that people should never step in. Thank you for your honesty. Also, if anyone needs any help airy their insurance claim process, or how to go about the whole process itself, feel to ask me.
Most body shops, even the good ones, don’t want to talk to you if you don’t want insurance work done. No money from inflated prices. Sometimes I just want small dent or rust repair done and I don’t want the insurance involved, some time it costs less than the deductable but they don’t want to do that. They want the inflated insurance rates.
Good info, Scotty and you are soooo right. I’m a trained bodyman who is fully retired now and a bad body shop can easily be found out by looking at some of their previous work and the same goes for the good ones. Just check their “products” and they can be categorized pretty quickly. Have a blessed day.
I have to correct Scotty on the bumper painting issue. We use the same paint on the plastic parts as the steel parts, but the primer will be a plastic primer, or a regular primer with a flex agent. Also clear coats will have a flex agent. Most paint issues on bumpers result from poor adhesion because sanding bumpers is a pain in the butt and people take shortcuts.
I agree, you have the right to take your vehicle to any shop you like…Period! Don’t be fooled bye the appearance of the shop either. A lot of times is about the talent in the building. Insurance company’s receive a lower cost to have work done at their directed shops. Quality of a booth and the paint is important. Some shops pretend to use quality products and that’s what the insurance pays for, yet quite a few use cheap products, to make more profit. They peel and fade and they won’t even deal with you when it comes to a warranty claim. Dealers and Larger shops are probably best, a well known independent is also good, cause they wouldn’t be in business bye doing lousy work. I liked Scottys idea about gathering info in your phone, you will get frustrated trying to find the info in the untidy glove box real fast. Find a good Body shop and place as a contact in your phone, as Scotty said, you could simply have the car towed to your house, then you have the time to clearly figure out your best path forward. even if you have to pay for the tow from your house to the body shop its better than receiving lousy work on your vehicle that can haunt you for years.
I finished my collision repair program and when you paint a car the plastic pieces for examples either front or rear bumper never match with the shade of the actual car because they are different materials (plastic and metal) so the color sits differently Look at every car you see and you’ll see the shade is always different even from the factory
We never buy cars and trucks new enough to buy collision insurance on. If something needs painted we pull it in the shop over the weekend, hog it down with a DA, and give it a Rustolum paint job. We used to buy paint from Mack Trucks that was made by Kirker, and it was only like 30 a gallon with the hardener, but they don’t sell it anymore. There for a while everything we owned was Mack Standard Red
on small repairs when you take your car home wash it in warm-hot water with dish detergent. if it wasn’t properly clear coated and glaze was used to make it shine a wash will wash it off and you can return to the shop for proper clear coating/ buffing. this works when a headlight has been replaced to see if it leaks andfills with water. i had one where the front end was bumped in a parking lot requiring the headlight and side marker to be replaced. to make the repair profitable the shop also painted the hood even though it may not have been damaged. the car was shiney, but i knew about glaze so i washed it when i got home . the leading edge of the hood got dull and the headlight filled with water and back i went.
Lol, you got everything right EXCEPT one thing. That “special blend of paint” is itself, a scam. Professional body shops, dealers, and even car manufacturers use the same paint, but they use a product called adhesion promotor which works BEAUTIFULLY. The body shop that I left to pursue my aerospace career used it and insured their work for 1-2 years (depending on the grade of work they request, which yes, you do get what you pay for in body work. You want it primed only? Sure. You want it painted right? Yup, a little more, but we’ll do it and make it look good.) They used a product called Bulldog adhesion promotor, and it was some of the best stuff on the market (no, I don’t get paid for an ad, they just make a good product).
Dad used Maaco to paint one of his cars, he purchased the top of the line thousand dollar paint job, he was happy with it and 5 years later it is still holding up. Keep in mind that dad garages his cars, doesn’t leave them exposed to the elements over night and always looks for a shaded spot when he goes to different stores. Cheap paint jobs can hold up, but garaging a car is a must and Scotty doesn’t garage his automobiles.
Solid advice here. Also, be wary of insurance pushing you to take it to their “preferred” repair shop. Chances are that repair shop is in cahoots and will do everything to total your car instead of wanting to fix it. These places are typically national chains. Stay away from them. Like Mr Kilmer says, do some research and find a competing shop that really wants your business and wants to fix your car and is NOT in the pocket of big insurance.
So, i’ve been working for a towing/mechanic business for 9 years. We do all sorts of accident tow jobs. We have NEVER received a ‘kick back’ from any body shop. We generally bring the cars back to our shop, insurance adjuster comes out and checks the car, then the customer and ins. company pick where to take the car for repairs. You’re making us tow truck companies sound bad in the article, yet i’ve never heard of any of the other local companies in my area doing what you say they do.
As a body tech I will say these are very good tips for the Public to follow, however one thing I had an issue with was the tip stating “if you see cars there for awhile they’re probably a scam” IV worked in 3 shops so far. 1 shop had a contract with a neighboring buisness for them to store their cars on our lot. We had cars of theirs for months. While the other the owner just had extra cars laying around that we would part out or sell. Besides that though these are excellent tips.
Good advice, Scotty! I got into body work after high school. I learned a lot in a couple of years about the business, but the biggest lesson I learned was this: the only one who makes any real money is the shop owner. The young guys they hire are just there for a while and move on. It’s very transient. I moved completely out of the business and went into the military.
Warn them also about how it’s not only Tow outfits acting as modern Highwaymen getting kickbacks from body and auto repair shops, but the legalized scams in the form of “contracts” with local law enforcement. who are also Highwaymen, expect they shake motorists down under the color of law. Before panties get all twisted, I’ve had Tow operators do the opposite, and steer me to straight mechanics in times of need. I’m not saying ALL tow operators or cops are crooks-just to watch out for the ones who are.
This is a great article. There is a ton of great info in it! I work for the worlds largest car auction. And my job is literally to write condition reports on all cars before they go to auction. This includes listing any previous repairs no matter how good they are. And, if they’re a subpar repair I have to have it repaired again. You would be surprised how many awful body shops there are out there. I have seen 150,000$+ cars with terrible previous paint work. Put I have also seen 10,000$ Honda’s with paint work so good it’s nearly impossible to tell. So that shows you a more expensive shop isn’t always better.
Scotty, you compared a metal fender to a rubber bumper . In the sun these two materials will bake at different Temps and after 10 yrs will look like two different tints of the same color ! I have a car that I’ve had since new and the plastic and metal colors after 15 yrs look different ! My newer car, the plastic pieces are contrasting colors to the metal of the car and I suspect that’s so 10yrs from now it won’t look like I had parts replaced !
Scotty, you forgot to mention that those insurance body shops ONLY like to do insurance work. If you go there with cash for some cosmetic work they will turn you away. I went to the “best” body shop in my area, always packed with cars, they just built a new expansion to handle the volume, fantastic reviews on yelp… flat out turned me away for some paint correction work on my Mustang. The owner told me he only had 1 paint guy and he was way too busy with insurance claim work to be bothered with my issue.
Insurance companies don’t pay to blend adjacent panels if it’s just a bumper cover being refinished. It’s up to the painter to match the paint well in those situations. High quality high dollar paint systems also have less tolerance for how far the colors are allowed to stray than low dollar systems like let’s say Martin Senior’s(NAPA) crossfire line. Ultimately it is the painter’s responsibility to tint colors as needed to get them right but you still would be wise to stick with a shop using one of Sickens, Glasurit, PPG, or Cromax’s premier lines. These are all worthy systems for close color match and longevity. Shops spending the money on good quality products usually have high standards all across the board. Cheers
What’s the best advice for selling a used car that needs some work and you don’t have the money to put into it, but you’ve put a good bit into it already. Like my 2005 Murano had the transmission and transfer case done but the security module needs to be changed along with windshield and one rear exhaust muffler.
Took my Prius to the Toyota dealer to fix it after a lady rammed me with her Lincoln Navigator! $5,500 later it looked great. It was a lease car and my thinking was that if anything wasn’t fixed right, it was fixed by the dealership where I leased the car so it couldn’t become a problem when the lease was over.
the paint for bumpers is the same as other car parts…with the difference you have to primer the bumper with plastic primer or whatever you may call it there otherwise it will flake…but the paint is the same and the painting process is often simultaneous.. that car you showed as an example was a poor example because the paint was not flaking, that bumper was hit on the corners you can see the stress marks on the plastic…when paint flakes it flakes in large clean pieces of paint and it often happens while you pressure wash your car or after a very hot day and it never starts on the corners, it starts flaking on the center wich is the biggest surface area without any curves or bends
It’s hard to get plastic to match metal, and if you don’t use the exact same paint as was used originally, the car could fade quicker than the bumper causing that color shade difference. And Toyota is notorious for having bad clearcoat for years. rock chips on other cars that wouldn’t go through the clear go all the way to the metal on a Toyota.
When I was rearended a month ago I was taken by ambulance to the emergency room. I instructed that the car be taken to our house 4 blocks away. The wrecker insteadTook it to his body shop, and refused to let me have the car (it was driveable, just one taillight smashed) until after Christmas vacation. As it turned out, the insurance co. bought it (totaled) so it didn’t make any difference. I just didn’t appreciate the wrecker STEALING the car and holding it HOSTAGE for a week! They tow 24/7/366 like all towing operators, so what is their excuse for taking someone else’s car to some place other than what the owner says?
I once went to this shop my husband always go to, my car apparently needed a new thermostat. So when I checked the receipt it said new coolant. The coolant was at the same level it started at. My husband went out there and complained then an argument broke out with swearing. Clearly, it was a scam. Nothing was changed. We went to another shop and it was a loose wire. Now, I know codes don’t tell you the exact problem, but the light came back on and they wanted to argue.
Hey Scotty, I want to try and get into the buisness but everywhere wants so much experience just for a simple oil and lube guy. I would like to get certified eventually and all that other good jazz but I’m a little broke for schoolin’. I guess I’m wondering if you have made or could male a article about getting your foot in the door.
Hi Sorry! I must buy (new) secondhand car for me, cause I can’t fix now my Toyota Corolla Liftback 1988. So I am thinking to decide between Ford Focus 1.6 HDI 2005 diesel, 90 HP (190000 km), Subaru Legacy combi, 2002, petrol, 240K; Ford Mondeo 2002 Diesel, 190K; Mazda 626 DITD, 2001, diesel 90 HP (250K) and Renault Megane 1.9 2006, diesel (220K)… Can you help me? All cars are in combi variant.
can confirm, do not go too cheap unless you don’t really care what it looks like. went to this auto repair place that does paint jobs once after i scraped a pillar in a parking garage because it was like 1/4 of the cost of a body shop, and yes it looks ….OK. but that’s about it. it has bad orange peel and part of the inside of the door frame was never even painted, which later rusted. i got into another minor accident later and went to a proper body shop with a paint booth and had them repaint that rusty spot and another spot that got the paint knocked off from another car hitting me, and it looked perfect. the cheap place charged more than my deductible anyways so why go there? i only went because i had insurance through my parents at the time and “they cant report something like that to insurance”
hey scotty. i dont know how much you know about motorcycles but i might aswell ask anyways. im looking at a couple sport bikes ( mid 2000s cbr 600rr or kawasaki zx6r, stuff like that) and i see some from low miles to like 10000 miles. would it be smart to buy one with higher mileage? how long can bikes last usually?
Lol you use the same paint for the bumper and the rest of the car. The only reason it would flake off like your example is improper prepping of the panel and/or improper mixing of the paint. Bumper also have a flex additive in the paint. Only difference. You don’t mix up different paint for a hood and a bumper. It’s the same paint fyi
Yeah that’s what I’ve been told to I live in New Hampshire and I called the lawyer and I had to go to the body shop that they wanted me to go to but fortunately it was really good one and my card didn’t have to get it towed if it did I would bring it home that may be if it’s your own insurance but if somebody else hit you all they are reliable for just to fix your car unless there is bodily injury I used to think the same thing the lawyer I called as a friend of mine and you got back to me after couple days and told me there’s no such law
Oh Scotty i just love your show. Only you remind me of my High School Days in the 1960s. Great cars, girls and music. I worked at a old fashion Beeline Gas station. With outside 4 post cable lift. At 16 i was certified safety inspections. Its so wonderful to see your posts. It reminds me there are a few of men like you left. Thanks sir! I salute! BTY my old Boss had the station and 5 miles away had the most awsome Junk Yard of history wagons to cars. It was such a great experiance. Thank you to freshen this wonderful past. It aint what it used to be.
I was lucky that the only time Ive been in a bad wreck, nobody was hurt. I fell asleep at the wheel on the way to work and woke up to me rolling my car down a cliff. I didnt know any tow trucks and picked the closest one on google maps that wasnt a big name company. I wanted it done and fast(before the cops could show up). The guy showed up and my car was so far down his wench couldnt reach me. He was in the mud getting dirty working hard to do it fast, I think he could tell I was anxious to get out of there. He had to use an extension just to pull me out, we got out of there before the cops could show up(multiple cars stopped to make sure I was okay), and then drove 20 miles to where I wanted it dropped off. He agreed to take the $400 cash I had on me and didnt even give me a receipt(so under the table). Never suggested an auto body place, he just knew exactly what I was getting at and made it happen. He could have towed it, called the police, tried to hustle me into going to an auto body shop, and all the bad stuff ive heard happen when you call in a tow truck after a bad wreck..The lesson I learned is not everyone is out to screw you over. Its good to have a plan for when they are though, I just had dumb luck there.
these days there really are no real body shops. Due to the way cars are made now, it’s either fill it with bondo or replace the parts. What is still metal is so thin it really can’t be worked. When I was trained to do bodywork, we would actually work the original metal back into shape… most of the time, some panels could not be saved of course. I was even taught how to use “lead” now mostly tin, they’ve taken the lead out of it when it’s still used today. It’s not often used except by shops that do restorations of vintage and antique vehicles of a high caliber. So much of the vehicles are plastic now it’s ridiculous. They should just make the entire car from plastic and be done with it. that day is almost here I think. It could actually work, for a while. If they made the panels of two pieces of plastic sealed together with pressurized air or inert gas inside, they would be highly resistant to breakage… until the outside layer outgassed enough to become brittle and start breaking down. they can make the plastic from soy beans, so it would be environmentally sound, and that type of plastic will break down and an be recycled. the day is coming when cars will be plastic for the most part, and the engines made of ceramic compounds. ford actually experimented with ceramic engines way back in the 70s but thought nobody would buy them, because even though they would run cooler and last for a longer time than metal engines, at that time they were very expensive to produce. with the high cost of cars and parts today they would probably come out cheaper with the ceramic now.
Come on Scotty! There’s no “special paint for bumpers”! You just need to make sure that if you buy a new bumper, that the painter uses an adhesion promoter. It’s all the same paint that you use on the rest of the panels. On plastic, even from factory you might get a slight color variation even if you’re spraying the whole car, it’s just a chemical reaction. Having a spray booth is real nice and if you’re paying good money to have your car worked on make sure they do have a booth, but I’ve sprayed cars outside and have gotten great results with little dust, but nothing a good cut and buff can’t get rid of.
Weird, I’ve never had a car towed to a body shop, I’ve always driven to the one I want to use, I had 1 accident and I took the vehicle to the body shop of my choice, and that’s how the insurance company works that I have too, you chose the body shop, if your insurance doesn’t do that you need different insurance, and if your car has to be towed in and the truck driver tries taking it to a certain shop you need a different tow company too. I had a vehicle partially repainted due to the typical 80’s and 90’s garbage paint where the clear coat had come off and the paint had started coming off, the shop I went to did a great job and faded the paint down off the hood onto the fenders…can’t tell it was repainted till you get past the front end and doors and look at the roof over the cab/cargo area. Yep my body shop handled all the insurance paperwork on the vehicle that was involved in a wreck, although the damage wasn’t that bad I had some paint work done to it while it was in there mostly front bumper hood/grill and the AC condenser was damaged…the AC condenser and repair was the most expensive, bumper was off a scrapped vehicle, as was the grill, hood just needed a little re-alignment…the lady that turned right in front of me needed a whole new car…and she apparently just drove it off the lot, still had the window stickers in it from the dealership….yep you don’t turn right in front of someone, especially if the vehicle you are turning in front of is a lot larger than yours LOL.
Sorry Scotty, but the peeling bumper is because the raw plastic like Toyotos use have to prepped with a cleaner and adhesion product. A bumper cover will usually never match the rest of the car even if you paint them at the same time. Look at a brand new car and none of the bumpers match right from the factory.
I am a painter and I mean no disrespect but matching the color is not the same thing as blending ya you do need a good painter to do both of those things but there is a difference no insurance company on the planet would pay to blend the quarter panels on a bumper only wreck though that is the easy way. But no you would need to either blend the paint within the bumper so you don’t change the color near the quarter panels OR if you get a new bumper that has to be fully painted then you would most likely have to tint the color as you go using a spray out card to check the color as you tint it. Blending the quarter would make the whole process easier because then you wouldn’t have to do much to tint the color if anything at all but like I said no one will pay to do that so you really need a good painter to be able to look at the color and see exactly what it needs (types of tints, toners,pearls, and metallics) to match what is on the car. I like this website though he is very knowledgeable mechanic who is also entertaining.
2:25 this color discrepancy is excessive BUT plastic to metal surfaces will NEVER be an exact match. Paint adheres differently to different materials. Take a look around and you’ll notice the bumper covers (even on new vehicles) match each other but not the rest of the car. ALSO, it’s not all about “blending”. The goal of a proper repair is to leave intact panels intact. A good painter/shop can tint the color to match instead of unnecessarily spraying over factory paint.
LoL…. 0:53 looks like the Superior Auto Body in San Carlos CA — and yes, I had problems with them with a car they (mostly) fixed (which then broke) and I bitched at them to make it right. It’s when I ased for the manager’s name and their B.A.R. number to report to the State of California did they snap to attention.
Getting a decent estimate from a shop is not that easy all the time. I wrecked my front end and they said their estimate couldnt be done unless they take the car apart. Meaning they will ensure they are the ones fixing it because it will be immobile afterwards. It took them 2 weeks to get me an estimate. The estimate was 7k and the final bill was 14k. 7K worth of supplemental because they had car for two weeks and still didnt take it apart to do estimate even though they said that was the only way to get an accurate estimate. If I ever get in another wreck I will not use the insurance companies shop they have a contract with. They are liars and it took them 2 months to fix when it was supposed to take 4 weeks originally.
2:36 Scotty is right almost always, but the comment on the bumper color lacks context … bumpers are a different substrate, they never are gonna achieve the same color finish even if you use same paint and clearcoat to paint them as the rest of the car… observe a brand new car and you’ll notice the same difference as here…
Scotty, From the looks in the background of this article you have some serious drain, waste and vent (DWV) plumbing code violations. You can’t install a P trap outdoors because it will freeze and the vent is missing. What are those cans of R-22 freon doing in your garage? You have the required EPA license?
Yet another reason to drive an old paid off 2003 corolla 🤣 my car has a sunspotted hood, license plate frame marks from when someone rear ended me, primed black bumper I bought off of ebay after I slid into a ditch. I don’t care how it looks it gets me where I need to be only thing I pay for is insurance and gas
Good advice Scotty. I work in body shops repairing hail damage (pdr). The results I see get delivered to customers sometimes is absolutely pitiful. The part prices and repair prices at all the shops are over the top ridiculous. We all pay for that with our car insurance, then the shops stick it to the insurance companies as hard as they can, and the cycle continues.
Even though insurance company’s steering customers is illegal be prepaied to know where you want it to go and possably argue some woth your own insurance company to get what your intilted to. Beat to find a well equiped shop that doesnt rely on agreements with insurance companys to do tbings the insurance companys way. Your insurance compay will usually not be looking out for your best interest. Theu want ot done quick and done their way woth the parts they choose. Some times not even to manufacturer guidelines. The insurance can only pay a shop to do it the incorrect way. But its the shop and tech that can be criminaly liable when they do it that way the insurance told them to
we tried 2 different shops around my area. thumbs down. after returning to both twice for them to “proper” alignment the parts.. i just gave up. but i said.. ull nvr see my business again. and i love plugging in places that SUCK. but to find the ones that wont do u wrong… i think i have better odds on the lotto 😛 .
I have a 2016 Jeep Compass and the sides as well as the underneath of the hood started bubbling after owning it for a little over three years. I heard of the corrosion warranty that Jeep offered so I called the closest Jeep dealership and they advised me that I could have the hood fixed by the body shop that they outsource their body work out to down the road from them. I looked up reviews and he’d been in business for many years and has many promising reviews online. They had my car for a total of eight days before I got it back. When I picked it up, I immediately noticed some serious flaws. Excess Paint had run down the front of the hood and created three separate drips that actually hardened on the front left corner of the hood. There was also body filler that he had used that wasn’t sanded down or painted and you could see all of it from the outside of the car. Some of the body filler even got on the passenger side fender and was never cleaned off so now it’s stuck on there and won’t come off. Along with this, they tried filling the bubbling that started on the underside of the hood in several spots. These geniuses decided to paint right over top of the road salt without cleaning the salt first. To top all of this off, they told me the hood was removed and painted which is the proper way to do it if you ask me. Unfortunately there is a great deal of evidence that shows they in fact did NOT remove the hood as the entire front end of the car as well as the engine bay is COVERED in overspray.
I’ve been screwed over big time by a body shop before. It’s a business that if they want to hide things, they can do it quite easily. In my case, they made the outside look great, but butchered everything else that was not on the outside of the car, like leaving welds bare, to painting regular paint overtop of rust, to body shop dust caked into every nook and cranny in and out. Also, I was told that they would have my car for 2-3 months to strip all the paint off and to cut and weld in a few areas. At the end of the day they had my car for over a year and when I would go and check on the progress, it was always sitting in the corner of their shop with nothing happening. So my advise is to inform whatever shop you take your vehicle to, that you want to see continual progress on your vehicle, that you personally are going to be checking every square inch of the car at every chance you get and that if you find anything wrong with their work, that you expect them to correct it. Hope this helps some people out.
A lot of plastic bumpers come preprimered. The paint however does not need to be different. The prep is though. Also looking for a color match at a fender/quarter to bumper is a terrible idea since the manufacture often paints bumpers in a completely different place from the rest of the car and the usually do not match to begin with. The body will also paint the bumper separately and will likely not be blending it either.
Scotty. blending is very RARELY put on the estimate from the insurance adjuster. and even more rare that a body shop will blend 2 quarters for a bumper job. it’s not always the shop. more often than not the insurance company writes “short” estimates. aftermarket parts. no blending. not writing enough labor time etc. then the body shop has to work around that low ball estimate
Aye if you are ever in an accident make sure to park the car in a parking lot or anywhere off the street. You wont get charged for clean-up or immediate tow. And dont call a tow truck until the ordeal is over. The tow charges more is you say cop are there and been in an accident. Just say i need a tow because car is not working. You’ll be charged the standard rate.
I NEED TO ASK: I wanted to get a quote from a body shop for a dent in my car (it’s under my name) they said they’d look at it in my parents property. They tricked my mother into singing a contract claiming it was for the insurance and took the car. They say they won’t work on it and if I want it back I have to pay $500 for storage fees. I didn’t agree to anything or sign anything. Also my phone records all my calls so I have plenty evidence to support my case. My Question is “should I report it stollen?” Or should I just take it to a small dispute court?
Your wrong about bumpers there made of rubber will dry at a different rate than steel you can paint a fender and cover at the same time with the same pain and the color can be way off. Some color’s more than others paint is a science not as exciting as people think. Lots of cars come with off color bumpers from the factory new.
I was in an accident (rear ended not my fault) in 2005 while driving my new Sentra SER. I took it to a body shop and they screwed up the car. My insurance eventually totaled it because the body shop didn’t repair it correctly and it was unsafe to drive. I thought my mistake was not taking it to an insurance company sanctioned body shop. I realize the insurance companies cannot suggest/reveal what body shops are on their list because that would be a conflict of interest but, don’t the insurance company body shops have an incentive to do good work or lose their insurance company connection?
Great article Scotty. My family loves perusal you. My son does the most. My son has been detailing cars for a long time, and he can say paint code 1E7 silver streak mica on a Toyota Matrix is the most durable he’s seen on a car. His matrix hadn’t been waxed for 14 years, and it still shined really well. And he also said he’s never seen a silver 2003-2008 Toyota Matrix with clear coat failure.
That was originally Earl Sheib body shops with the cheap paint job scam. “I’m Earl Scheib, and I’ll paint any car, any color for $89.95. No ups, no extras.” Econo Paint and Body still uses the same business model today.. though its “any car for $199.99” I actually worked there for a while when I first got in to body work. It was a great lesson on what NOT to do. Maaco still advertises a “$299.99 Paint Job Special” but once you’re in the door they’ll try to up-sell you to a slightly better base/clear job.
Hi Scotty. Please do tell people how to spot a good mechanical auto-shop. (U reach a whole lot more people than most of us) I’m a retired mechanic and i’m not in the USA, but I do enjoy your vids and share them to whoever I think can use your advice. It’s good wel explained, logical,sound advice . The vids are short, full of advise and not boring. Thanks. Have a great day.
My sister is currently driving a 2005 Grand Prix. I know the inside and out of that car, because I owned it and worked on it immensely. About 4 months ago is when I gave it to her, and beforehand, I changed ALL the rotors and brakes with notsocheap replacements. She recently started hearing a thumping noise as she drives. (Turns out the LF swaybarlink was loose??) However, when she took it in for a diagnosis, they tried to sell her NEW REAR ROTORS, claiming they were warped and needed to be replaced. Those pads and rotors are practically brand new. Makes me sad that they would prey on people with no knowledge of vehicles, especially a popular shop…. Glad I took care of it for her.
I am new to your website. I have my dream car now and want to work on it more myself (A. because it is fun to work on something you love B. it is pretty expensive to pay someone else for everything that needs to be done more frequently as I am taking the car to track events and C. because I think you learn a lot about the functioning of the car by working on it). Your website is an important part of that plan because you do such a great job quickly explaining how to do what needs doing. I am grateful to you – THANK YOU!
I chose one that had seemingly the newest of everything, great reviews and been in business for 52 years and I had dust, runs and dull paint under the clear on one door and they just tried to polish everything out which didnt work. They messed up the electric connections on one door and also charged me for a electric window regulator even though it was insurance. Doesn’t always matter how much research you could still cop a bad deal. I gave up in the end because I got sick of going back and they were 4 hours away from where I live.
Scotty, I sure hope you have high privacy fences and thick bushes around your side and back yard because all I see is a lot of accumulated “stuff.” Yes, I understand that it’s all needed and related to used vehicle repair, but you must have forgiving neighbors because most wouldn’t want to look out their windows and see a bunch of what a lot of (uneducated) people would call ‘junk’ As a retired body man I’ve had a few hot rod projects over the many years and living in a subdivision can sometimes be a sticky situation. I’ve learned this the hard way over the years. Trying my best not to ‘offend’ the neighbors can be difficult. One day I’ll have a place in the middle of no where and I’ll spray my primer at will!
Scotty, I’m commenting on he newest article you have. Huge fan by the way! I have a problem I just can’t seem to put my finger on. I have an 06 malibu lt, 2.2 ecotec (crapppyyy). Problems: not much power, engine revs loudly when accelerating, and shifts near 3000-4000 RPMS unless I make it shift earlier (depressing the gas pedal at a certain point). It seems to shift somewhat smooth once it hits that certain point. Idles fine. I’ve taken it in, used to come back as clean the injectors, ran cleaner through it. Pulled each one and it changed the idle to rough idle a) fuel pressure test came back just fine b)changed plugs and boots, pulled each one and changed idle to rough. I took a voltage tester to the purge solenoid and coil pack, good voltage and ground. C) tranny flush. Guy says tranny is just bad but the car has 140xxx on it. Miss firing at cylinder 3 and 4 near 1500 RPMS if I remember correctly if he said that or not. D) new muffler, flex pipe etc and it’s fine. No cat codes. Only thing that comes up now is EVAP large leak. I’m stuck on what to do 😑
Scotty, QUESTION: I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza 5 speed with 71,000 miles. The car has it’s 3rd engine after it was consuming over 1 qt every 1,000 miles on the Original Engine with 50,000 Miles. The second engine’s oil pump died almost immediately and that second engine needed to be replaced after about 2 weeks. Thankfully all of this was covered by the warranty. The car also has some damage to the rear bumper cover. The car feels slow and it’s gas mileage isn’t what it used to be despite regular maintenance. I used to average 29 mpg and now I’m lucky to see 27 mpg with no changes to my commute and driving habits. Should I ditch this car to avoid costly repairs in the future or roll the dice that engine number 3 is hopefully going to give me 200,000 or more miles of pretty reliable transportation? -Peter from New Hampshire.
You can paint plastic bumpers with normal car paint I’ve done it on my own car and 2 years going still holding up. The trick is to make sure you sand the bumper first cause if you don’t sand it paint dosnt stick and peals off. The guy in your vid probably didn’t sand it before applying the base coat.
I’m a DJ who is looking to buy a cargo van to replace the 2011 Kia Sportage I’ve been using to haul gear back and forth to weddings and other events. I’m trying to chose between being a Chevy Astro Cargo Van or perhaps a newer small cargo van like a Ford Transit or similar. I sometimes drive as far as 300 miles to perform, but more often it’s less than 100 round trip. I hear that Chevy Astros are bulletproof, but I’m reluctant with Chevy as my first car in high school was a 3-year-old Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4 with a 2.8L V6 and a 3 speed automatic with overdrive. After only a year and a half driving it (from 65,000-80,000 miles) the head gasket blew 3 times and the transmission had to be rebuilt as many times. I was working and paying $320/mo on that super cool, but very unreliable vehicle. Am I better off paying $3-5,000 for an Astro or $15-20,000 for a low mileage modern van? I obviously can’t be breaking down on my way to a wedding.
From experience with a collison far from home, I know there’s a better way than Scotty’s. The individual consumer is unqualified to vet collision repair shops in every local that they drive. What they CAN do is vet the insurance company that they use. Have your car towed to the storage lot that’s been selected by the municipality’s police department, and/or let your insurance company worry about which collision repair and which body shop to use. They may not be the same. (In most cases where police are involved, and the vehicle is not driveable, the police pick the towing company. If you use a shop that’s selected by your insurance company, most decent policies from reputable companies not only warranty the work quality, the insurance company will expedite the work. They have direct knowledge of the quality of work for every shop in their coverage area. I said decent policy and reputable company. If you can’t to pay for both, then you most certainly won’t be able to pay for the aftermath of a collision. A reputable auto insurance company has “adjusters”, people who can assess the extent of damage and know the likely cost of repair. They do not adjust claims and authorized payment using your cell phone photos, have physical offices, not just websites.. A decent policy provides for public liability, rental of temporary transportation and overnight lodging expense if needed to resume an out of town trip. It provides comprehensive and collision coverage with deductibles of less than 10% of market value of your vehicle or one week’s take home pay.
Yeah I wrecked my brand new 2018 Colorado ZR2 like 3 months after I drove it off the lot. I was SO angry I thought it would never be the same but luckily my father knew a good shop and I took it there and it took them like 1 month and a half but they did an EXCELLENT job on mine. Paint was great and everything was fixed and they even had to call the insurance guy back because they found more damage underneath so they did a great job.
Hey Scotty–EXCELLENT ViIDEO! However–You need to do a short Part II. 2 questions. No 1. If you are in an accident, and you or someone in your car gets hurt, chances are you are all going to the hospital–First. What if a Tow Truck Driver, without your concent, takes your car to a “Shady” Body Shop. Can you have your car towed AWAY from that place? Question #2. Many people do road trips with their cars. What do you do if you are on vacation someplace? Should you ship your car home? Or should you risk local Google recommendations? Thanks.
Hi Scotty, Please help me i am really screwed after buying a used automatic Nissan Armada LE 2006 model recently. The car is over 2 hundered and 40 thousand KM and it jerks really bad when i change gears, be it reverse, parking, drive etc. I checked the u joints, transmission try, solenoid, all fluids etc, they all seems to be in good condition. What other problem u think it can have to be jerking bad while changing all gears? HELP HELP HELP….!
Jjautobody here in the Houston area as well. You can check us out on Yelp and see we are pretty good. Anyways, pretty much everything you covered is accurate but I do have some tips. First of all good paint for a whole car can cost upwards up 6k for a small car and that’s cheap. Now, if you pay maaco to paint it for 1k and it last 5 years then you can see how it’s more economical to just repaint it at maaco 5 years later for 1k from the interest you made off the 5k you invested from the savings. Although maaco has terrible prep procedures so you will get your engine painted unintentionally. So if you do your own prep then it might be worth it. What u wish you would have covered more is the insurance and tow side of the business. The tow side is absolutely full of scams and I have stories for days. It’s extremely easy to get taken advantage or outright robbed by them. Insurance companies can be just as bad at times … I have countless stories of insurance companies screwing over people in clever ways and even refusing to properly repair something and making the vehicle a hazard. Its always the adjuster who makes these dodgy decisisons but I still blame the insurance companies because the way they set up compensation for their adjusters makes it blatently obvious how the customer gets screwed over. If you want to reach out then I can bring u up to speed on all the shennanigans if you want to make a pt2 of the article.
Hey Scotty, I have a 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme with the 3.8L 231 Buick V6 in it and I’m planning on swapping the motor to a 5.3 and a manual transmission. I was told that I would need the oil pan form the truck line of 5.3s because the one from the cars won’t clear the frame properly. I was also told it shouldn’t matter. Would you happen to know if it matter which I get?
The real scam is the insurance companies, if I’m being honest. I’m punished because of my age and gender, where many irresponsible a-holes have me paying for a service in case something happens to them, and the few times I have an issue, I’m denied any real service because I didn’t have full coverage. Now I pay for full coverage on a car that I’ll get no where near the full value that I personally hold it at, and I’m forced to comply with this due to the scumbags in power having this be a government mandate punishable with jail time if I don’t comply.
My experience with finding a decent body shop in the 90’s. I owned a Porsche 928S and got rear-ended by a driver. I had the Porsche dealer take the car to a body shop. Big mistake. They did a shitty job. One year later, I got hit again. This time I called the local Ferrari dealer and asked where they would take a damaged Ferrari. This shop was great but not on the “approved” list by the insurance company. No problem, the body shop took care of fighting with the insurance company and when I got the car back they did a great job and even fixed a few of the issues left by the body shop recommended by my Porsche dealer. Now as Scotty points out, you can do a lot of research with your smart phone while the Police officer is taking statements! Good articles.
Hey Scotty, say I’d like to bring my car in for some work, but I can’t seem to find your shop on Google. Where are you located? Do you have a website for your shop? I love all your articles, and as someone who worked in the auto parts/rebuilding business 50 years ago, I think your advice makes a lot of sense.
Hey Scotty! I got a 2008 Honda Accord Ex-L with a 146,000 miles on it. Lately, it has been making some weird noises under acceleration. I went to a dealership to find out what the problem was and they say it’s my Wheel Bearings. They told me it would be $900 to replace both front wheel bearings. What are your thoughts on driving with bad wheel bearings? Is it a safety hazard or am I good to drive on them until I can afford to get them fixed. Thanks.
In the 1980s my uncle had a 66 stingray he wanted to have repainted he went to lots of body shops wanting a show quality paint job there was zero damage to the car it had factory paint that was good but his wife wanted it another color. Anyway there was a painter at a Earl schibe kind of place that did fantastic work body work and prep NO but show quality paint. If you brought your own paint. Because the crap they used was crap. Anyway that would of required a separate shop to strip and prep the car and then move it for paint. To much trouble he chose a shop $7000 in the late 80s later the paint was so bad he wouldn’t show it to anyone. He literally remodeled his house and built a vault where he hid the car for decades.
Hey, Scotty, I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500. There are no issues at all when in 2WD mode (or Auto), when I manually switch into 4wd hi, it goes straight fine, only when turning it starts making this grinding noise and seems like it’s stalling at low speed (don’t actually dies but just feels like it needs more gas to move forward, and it’s rather jerky/jumpy on tight turns)
My POS Dodge died. After verifying my info AAA started “suggesting” places to get my vehicle repair. “No thank you i’ll have my vehicle towed to my home.” The tow truck driver didn’t try to up sell me BUT I checked the tow company Yelp! reviews. The sleazy drivers try & get you to leave your vehicle at their yard, “oh we can get the insurance adjuster here faster than you” but you end up getting dinged with $100’s of dollars of “lot fees”.
Dear Mr. Kilmer, I am writing this from Bangladesh, it’s in the other side of the world. I am having an issue with my vehicle and need advice. It’s a 2001 Toyota Land Cruiser, 3.0 L (2982 cc) 1KZ-TE inter-cooler turbo Diesel engine. I am the second owner and I suspect the previous owner didn’t maintain the vehicle properly. It has 1,04,000 kilometers on it. Lately the engine is burning oil and I have to fill half a liter oil in every month. Normally at idle or light driving there’s no smoke, but I I rev it hard to overtake grayish black smoke comes out and stops as soon as I ease a little bit. I drive 2,000 kilometers a month and change oil in every 4 months. A mechanic just looked at it, didn’t open anything or did any scan, and he suspected it’s the turbo that’s been burning oil and there is no repair possible. I have buy a new or lightly used one and replace mine. But told me I can go on awhile before engine burns too much oil. Any advice is highly appreciated. Thanks
Your advice is great. I love you garage, it look just like mine.I have stuff from 30 years and piles everywhere. It keeps growing. Its an obsession I guess . I even have 4 motorcycles under neath stuff. I don’t ride any more due to cell phone texting morons who almost put me in the ground a few times ! I love to ride my m’cycles but want to get my SS checks and spend them ! Keep up the great advice. You are #1 !
Love your articles man, I have learned a lot from you, thank you. Maybe the camera is off but after you filled the area to be repaired, you sanded it and put the 1st coat of primer then sanded that down. Im good with that, but after you put the guide coat on and sanded that there was still a decent size black spot around the repair. Im still learning and have been told this is a low spot and should be filled. Am I correct on this, is this just a shadow from the camera or something else? I didnt think a filler primer would fill in that much of a low spot.
Ok let me understand this, 1st you wipe down with wax/grease remover, while wearing gloves! Then you sand, bondo sand using multiple grits, then prime substrate without cleaning area ? Then go-coat,again with out cleaning work area, and rubbing with bare hands(oily hands) then sand, blow off area (not wash/wipe with oils/grease remover or tack rag the go to primer and paint????? What happen to preparation is the up most important task of a great paint job? Seems we back to ole school shade tree work??? Am I missing something here???????
Oh man I’ve learned so much and it shows in the work! Thank you a million times ! I’ve got that fiberglass kit car I’m doing that’s really warped up. Anyway, I did a “semi sorta final prime” on the left side I was getting the body lines corrected. It’s where the rear cab window wraps around to the door,and the joint where the fender tops meet. It came out so good,I’ve got to go back to the other side because I did that before perusal your vids and I can see it’s not as good. I’m doing a few sections like this while it is half built,as the areas are gonna be difficult when it’s assembled. The right side is assembled, and I gotta go back now but I should be able to persevere and win. I’m just trying to get it straight enough, prime it and assemble the car so I can drive it this summer. Looking at all the bodywork it’ll need,if might be 2 seasons before I get into that. It’s taken me 3yrs to build this thing, and for now I’m ok it’s not getting painted.
Hi Jerry, Thank you for the succinct review on the auto body repair process! More body work for me coming up in the new year. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Side Note. I tried my hand at doing a little Cerakote on a set of headers. Very high temp coating and 500 degree cure. Very cool stuff but boy does it stink! Respirator all the way!😷