This video provides a step-by-step guide on how to test and replace a flow switch in a swimming pool salt system. The process involves sliding the main switch to the AUTO position, cycling it from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE, then back to AUTO, and pushing the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display. The flow switch is responsible for regulating the flow of water in the pool, and if it is not functioning properly, it may cause issues with the pump’s performance.
To test the flow switch at home, follow these steps:
- Slide the main switch to the AUTO position.
- Switch the cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
- Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.
- Check for possible turbulence inside the flow T.
- Install 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
- Check for a multimeter reading of the continuity of the flow switch.
- If the flow light starts blinking, it may indicate a blockage in the sensor, such as sludge or calcium/chlorine buildup.
- Inspect the lights on the Hayward Aqua Rite control box for any issues. If the flow light is flashing, ensure the pump is primed and an adequate amount of water passes through the flow switch element for at least 60 seconds.
- Press the diagnostics button five times to display the instant salt level and wait for the number to stabilize. Once salinity is stable, the negative sign should disappear.
📹 Testing your Flow Switch on a Hayward Aquarite System
This video will show you a How-To on testing your flow switch at home.
How do you test a flow switch?
Sprinkler flow switches are typically tested before opening a shopping center or factory floor to minimize disruption to customers or workforce. Engineers at Marlowe Fire and Security are experienced in working at unusual hours or before premises open, allowing them to undertake other mechanical, system, or electrical work. This approach offers several advantages, including cost-effectiveness, reduced trips by multiple engineers, safety standards, and environmental friendliness.
By reducing the need for multiple trips, Marlowe Fire and Security can pass on savings to customers without compromising safety standards. Additionally, it is more environmentally friendly, which is important for many organizations.
Why is my flow switch not working?
In the event that the flow switch fails to confirm the presence of flow, it is recommended that the water be examined for the presence of glycol, as a high concentration of this substance has the potential to alter the specific gravity of the water and thereby impede the effectiveness of the cooling system.
How do you know if a switch is blown?
To diagnose a light switch issue, check other lights and electrical devices, test the switch with a multimeter, and inspect for visible damage. Light switches can burn out over time due to wear and tear, with an average lifespan of 10 to 15 years for standard residential-grade switches. Higher-quality switches or those with heavier usage may have a shorter lifespan. Proper maintenance and avoiding excessive stress can help extend the switch’s lifespan. The lifespan of a light switch can vary depending on factors like the switch’s quality, frequency of use, and the electrical load it handles.
How do you test if a switch is good or bad?
To test a light switch, use a multimeter or continuity tester. Remove the switch from the wall and check for wire connections. If no continuity is found, it’s time for a replacement. It’s important to know when to call a professional electrician if you’re not confident in handling electrical issues or if you’re unsure if you can safely handle the problem yourself. Attempting to fix the problem yourself could lead to injury or damage to your home’s electrical system. If the switch doesn’t pass this test, it’s time for a replacement.
How to tell if a flow switch is bad?
A flow switch is a device that monitors the flow of liquid, gas, or steam. It triggers when the flow reaches a pre-set flow rate, signaling an action such as shutting down the flow entirely. Flow switches are similar to light switches and can handle various media, but water and air are the most common. They can be standalone units or integral elements of a flow meter, which provides continuous measurement of flow rate and other functions essential to certain applications through integral electronics.
If the flow switch is no longer triggering at the specified flow rate or is not switching at all, it is likely bad. Flow switches can handle a wide variety of media, but they are most commonly used with water and air.
How do you do a flow test?
To perform a rapid lateral flow test for the novel coronavirus (2019-nCoV), insert the end of a swab into the tube, agitate it thoroughly, and then close the lid. Subsequently, the liquid should be dispensed onto the test strip, and the requisite waiting time should be observed in accordance with the instructions provided in the kit. The test results are displayed on the device. The specific methodology employed in the test may vary depending on the test kit utilized, potentially differing from that of previous tests. Therefore, it is of paramount importance to carefully review the instructions provided with the kit.
How do you test a switch is working?
To test a switch’s continuity, use a multimeter set to resistance and touch one probe to one of the darker screw terminals and the brass-colored terminal on the same side of the switch. The switch should show continuity with the lever in one position but not both. If the switch fails any continuity test, it must be replaced. Reconnect the switch to the circuit wires and tighten each screw terminal and ground screw securely. If replacing the old switch, use a new one with the same voltage and amperage ratings.
How to check a switch for continuity with a multimeter?
To test a wall switch for continuity, connect the black probe to the COM port and the red probe to the V/Ω port. If the multimeter has a setting for continuity, set it to measure Ω (resistance). Turn on the multimeter and touch the probes together. If the switch has two brass terminal screws and a ground screw, the multimeter should beep and read zero ohms of resistance. If the switch is good, the multimeter will display infinite resistance, or an open message. Turn the switch off and repeat the test.
What causes a flow switch to go bad?
Under normal conditions, a pressure switch should last 2-3 years or more. Premature failure can be caused by water chemistry, such as high pH levels causing lime buildup and low pH levels causing acid content to eat away at the rubber diaphragm, causing the switch to fail. There aren’t many reasons for a switch to fail quickly, and there’s no direct exposure to tablets or chemicals directly into the skimmer that could cause it to fail.
How do you test a water pressure switch with a multimeter?
In order to test a pressure switch with a multimeter, it is first necessary to set the multimeter to continuity mode. The switch should then be disconnected and tested for continuity. In the event that no continuity is observed, it can be concluded that the switch is faulty. To test a furnace pressure switch, one must first disconnect the power supply, remove the wires, and then utilize a multimeter in continuity mode to ascertain whether the switch is operational when the furnace is in an active state. The presence of failure signs is indicative of a malfunctioning switch.
How to test a flow switch on a hot tub?
Flow errors in hot tubs are common error codes, often displayed as FLO, FL, FLOW, or LF. These errors occur when the pressure switch-style sensors in the hot tub fail to detect enough water flowing through the heater. The sensors are designed to measure the water flow through the heater to prevent overheating, which could melt plumbing or damage surrounding equipment. To troubleshoot and fix flow errors, follow these steps: shut down the hot tub, unplug the sensor, run a wire between the two contacts on the circuit board, and turn the hot tub back on. Ensure that the pressure switch-style sensor is properly connected to the spa pack and that the water is flowing through the heater correctly.
📹 Hayward AquaRite Salt System NO FLOW? Tips and Tricks to easily Diagnose and Fix
Tips, Tricks to Diagnose and Fix a Hayward AquaRite salt system No Flow solid Red indicator failure light.
Question: Can’t you just bypass the flow switch altogether and leave the circuit closed indefinitely? I’ve seen other ways of testing the flow switch by using a phone wire with an rj11 connector to close the circuit, and . Some have used a screwdriver in the rj11 port, which doesn’t look safe. How would this damage the unit over time?
Wow. You saved my life. Worked perfectly and discovered it was the flow switch. I just took an old telephone cable and cut the end to reveal the wires and connected the wires together so that it completed the circuit and then plugged the other telephone jack into the unit and it tricked the card into thinking there was flow. Perfect!
Absolutely amazing article! Thank you for the troubleshooting tips. I had the exact same problem with a new Hayword T-9 that just installed. I used the screw driver to trick the board with the screw driver and got the blinking no flow light. That let me know that the head unit was working just as you stated. The most important tip for me was when you said make sure the flow arrows were in the right direction. Mine was not. I adjusted the direction of the flow arrows and it worked like a charm. Thanks so much.
Dude! You saved me a ton of grief and have my pool generating chlorine now. Took an old phone wire, cut in half, split the wires, stripped to copper, twisted together and plugged into AquaRite. Now there’s flow 🙂. Now I can relax waiting for replacement flow switch. Just have to remember to turn off generator when pump is off.
Excellent.. explained in details and professionally, I did noticed one thing when I pulled mine though – noticed that no matter what direction the metal contact is facing (supposed to be face the water flow) it all rotates together when you screw the cap on, so essentially the entire housing moves which can position the metal flap in the opposite or any direction, unless mine is not well that’s what it did to me. Nonetheless, after I re-screwed it worked well.
AWESOME! I was thrilled to use your screwdriver trick to see if it was indeed the flow sensor. We had replaced our generator board a few years back so I was pretty sure and crossing my fingers that it wasn’t that but just as you said…. it BLINKED! Bought the new sensor (only $30 at our local pool store) and tested it the way you backtracked to show us… yep! WORKED! Installed it in minutes and we are working again! THANKS!!!
The bypass tip helps. When I found out there was no chlorine being produced my pool was drastically low on chlorine. I order and new switch and in the mean time I took a piece of aluminum foil and covered the telephone style jack on the flow switch. Plugged it back in and works the same as the screwdriver so I was able to run the pool on super chlorinate to get levels back up.
You hit the nail on the head! THANX BROTHA!! You saved me at least $200. Did the crew driver test-it was the Flow Valve. $23 part from Amazon-pool store want $100. Here is my question-do I EVER PUT THE BOX ON SUPER CHLORINATE? If so, when do I do it. My pool got cloudy because the flow flow was dead an I didn’t realize it.
Thanks for the article. No Flow switch light has been dark. Did the screwdriver test. “No Flow” indicator blinked, but did not go dark and did not click over to “Generate”. Replace the Flow Switch? Power to my board is continuous. Is this a problem? It used to come on by timer which was by- passed when the new Pentair pump was installed. I’m assuming the board does nothing until the water starts flowing and the flow sensor is activated?
Thank You That phone type jack test You showed worked I had an old phone jack and shorted ONLY the center wires (Red & Green) to replace the screwdriver test (and did not short the Black & Yellow) It is generating now but the Inspect Cell light is Yellow I just replaced the cell back in June I am going to look at more YouTube articles and see what the INSPECT CELL light is connected too Ken in Florida
Well this is great article. With screw driver I was able to verify unit was good and it was flow switch. But just sprayed some contact cleaner on connector terminals and inserted a few times and flow switch works again without replacing. So this does not account for dirty connector contact interface. But still was huge time saver for me since was not sure whether unit or flow switch was causing the problem
Thx for the screw driver tip it worked great to know my main board is working but when I replaced flow switch I still get solid red no flow. I’m new to this pool thing water is flowing thur because without switch in water goes everywhere. Do you of know of anything else I can do. Is there a adjustment I need to do to the return or suction side.I had the salt cell tested and its good. I don’t know what else to do. tried again with the flow switched connected to broad for 5 mins never clicked to generating like it did with screwdriver could the jack be bad?
Thanks for your article. I’ve performed the screwdriver trick as well and the salt generator was working. The TCell is brand new in March and when working readouts approximate the salt tests. I’ve replaced the flow control switch. The salt generator appears to be working about 50% of the time. The other 50% of the time I receive a no flow readout on my display. Is it time to replace my pcb? Could it be something else?
@Elite Swimming Pools TV you’re awesome! My only problem is that I don’t have a phone jack on the other end of my old flow switch. If I do, it’s way up in the metal box of the system. I tried and tried to reach way up in there to see if there was something there besides wire, but it sure doesn’t seem like there’s a jack inside of there. Any suggestions?? Dare I attempt to remove the metal box from the system??
Good Morning that was Easy thanks, but after I plugged it back in and left it alone it started Generating so is it working because it didn’t have a good connection or is it going to stop again but unfortunately I can’t check it because I’m at work right now, I have a few minutes to mess with it before work hopefully it keeps working because my pool is mean geeen lol…
I love this type. I was just thinking. Can’t you just short the two wires at one end of a very short phone cable and leave them that way? Will that damage the Aquarite over time? From what I understand. An open circuit is an indicator of no flow. A short or closed circuit is an indicator of flow (which is what you just did with the screw driver). I’m only asking because I’ve had a hell of a time replacing a ton of things with my pool. I originally didn’t hs e a flow switch, and now because of all the new parts I’m being told I need one. Can I just bypass the flow switch. It’s for an above ground pool.
Thanks for the tips. I wanted to add that Hayward recommends 12″ of straight pipe before the flow switch. I’m assuming this is to help with tubulance that may interfere with proper flow switch activation. The salt cell counts towards that 12″, so I’m not sure why they chose to install it in that hard to reach location, rather than after the salt cell, but clearly it still works, even innstalled so close to that elbow. Again, great article.
My power light does not come on and my salt level is stuck on 900. When it kicks on it flashes no flow like normal and when it senses the flow it kicks on generate for 30 seconds then goes black. At no time does the power light come on. I have a new cell but if I can return it and get my 500dollars back it would be amazing. Any input would be appreciated
My Hayward salt generator is not generating salt. Display shows salt reading of 1600, however salt reading of 3645 from pool store analysis. Power, check salt, and inspect cell lights are on. Chemicals are balanced and I cleaned the cell again.Salt reading was 3000 when another bag of salt was added. Next morning problem began with low salt reading and lights on. Do you think the issue is from too much salt? First time this has happened. Thanks.
We should form a P2W Union … if you want consideration first you must demonstrate that you are many, united and resolved. Strike first to show the community is together … and that opens the floor for serious consideration. Until that all you will get is lip service and excuses. Money would come from the influx of new players so we won’t completely stop the flow … unless the market has already been tapped. But at least then the community will have a gauge of what power we do or do not wield with our pocketbooks