The question is whether the Brodix Race-Rite 23-degree Small Block Chevy Aluminum Cylinder Heads will work with a hydraulic flat tappet cam or require modification. The spring on the Race-Rite head is designed for a hydraulic roller cam, and the exhaust ports are in the stock location, eliminating header or manifold interference. The Race-Rite® rectangular or oval port is a top-selling, bolt-on performance head that offers high torque intake ports, up to +90 HP, and 26°/4° Intake and 17°/4° Exhaust Valve Angles.
For flat tappet cam longevity, the optimal answer is phosphate coated cam and hard-face lifters. However, those on the less economically blessed side of the hobby keep buying lower-cost hydraulic flat tappet lifters. Some racers have discovered that a flat-tappet hydraulic can out-power a comparable solid-lifter cam, if the spring pressure is correct and the hydraulic lifter is properly adjusted.
The Race-Rite® series is a line of small block aluminum cylinder heads designed by BRODIX for maximum out-of-the-box horsepower. The Race-Rites have 119 chambers, which is 119 chambers less than the stock GM 840 head’s 106.9. The compression should come down to around 10 with the change.
The Brodix Cylinder Head Assembly 2061018 is a recommended choice for those building a 496 big block and looking to use the Race-Rite Big Block Series/26 degree cylinder head. The springs included are 1.470″ dual valve springs, with a max lift of 0.625 in and a valve spring OD of 1.550 in.
📹 Roller Cam vs Flat Tappet Cam – Summit Racing 101
Dave takes a quick dive into the basics of camshafts and their lifters, specifically the roller camshaft lifter and the flat tappet …
Is diesel oil good for a flat tappet cam?
The article discusses the difference between diesel oil and gasoline engine oil, highlighting that diesel oil is designed for gasoline engines with the correct level of zinc anti-wear protection. It also emphasizes that race oil is not recommended for continued use in street-driven gasoline engines. Diesel oils with API credentials of CI-4, CI-4 Plus, and CJ-4 typically have Zinc levels around 1100 parts per million (ppm).
For a flat tappet cam gasoline engine with moderate valve spring pressures, the minimum level of protection is 1200 to 1300 ppm of Zinc. For muscle cars and hot rods with higher valve spring pressures, 1600 ppm is sufficient, while race cars need around 2000 ppm. Break-in of a new cam is best protected with around 2500 ppm.
The article also discusses the differences between diesel engine oil and gasoline engine oil. In a modern diesel engine, there is substantial exhaust soot contamination, which the engine oil must contend with. Diesel oil is designed with higher levels of detergency and dispersency to fight soot contamination. Additionally, the primary ZDDP used in diesel formulas activates at higher engine temperatures, while in a gasoline engine, both primary and secondary ZDDP activate at lower temperatures due to the significant number of cold starts.
Lastly, the viscosity modifier polymers used in multi-viscosity engine oil differ between diesel and gasoline engines. Diesel engines operate at the same rpm all day long, requiring shear stable polymers to protect bearings, while gasoline engines experience large ranges of rpm and require polymers with both shear stability and thickening efficiency capability.
What is the difference between a hydraulic roller and a hydraulic flat tappet?
The hydraulic-roller cam lobe has advantages over a flat-tappet lobe, as it holds the valve open at higher lift for longer periods, resulting in greater fuel/air charge and faster valve opening. This also allows for greater scavenging of hot gases as they exit the engine. When swapping cams, it is recommended to use a hydraulic-roller cam, linked roller lifters, roller rocker arms, and single-piece pushrods with 0. 080-inch-wall thickness for durability.
Although more expensive, roller-tappet cams are more economic and less sensitive to break-in. However, the greatest challenge for enthusiasts with hydraulic-roller cams is lifter weight, which makes it difficult to control them at high rpm without stiffer valvesprings. Therefore, careful shopping for roller cams and related components is essential.
Can you use roller rockers with hydraulic flat tappet cam?
An engine can have a roller camshaft combined with ball friction rollers or roller rockers, or roller rockers without a roller cam. These components can be used in different engine types, such as nonroller rockers or flat-tappet solid or hydraulic camshafts. Utilizing roller bearings in both valvetrain areas reduces operating friction, reducing drag, freeing up horsepower and engine speed, and reducing operating heat.
There are two versions of roller rockers: rocker arms with roller pivots but nonroller tips, and rocker arms with a full-roller design with both roller bearing pivots and roller tips at the valve end.
How much preload does a hydraulic flat tappet lifter have?
Hydraulic lifter engines are designed to accommodate engine growth, which is achieved through lash or clearance with mechanical cams. Lifter preload, which compresses the small piston inside the lifter, compensates for growth without lash. Stock factory preload specifications range from ¾ to 1 full turn, moving the piston around 0. 050-inch. Performance camshaft manufacturers may specify less preload, ranging from ¼ to ½ turn, with the lifter on the base circle of the lobe. It is recommended to recheck preload settings on all lifters to avoid missing specifications and potential noise issues.
To set preload, use the EO-IC method, or Exhaust Opening Intake Closing. Begin by bumping the engine until the exhaust valve opens (EO), then set the intake preload (IC). Next, bump the engine until the intake valve is halfway closed (IC), then set the preload on the exhaust. Repeat this process for adjacent cylinders.
Can you use a roller cam with hydraulic lifters?
Hydraulic cams are faster in low-lift, low-rpm, high-endurance applications, but pure race motors focus on area and rpm. Running hydraulic lifters on a solid grind increases peak power and torque at higher rpm points, but the actual power and torque peak numbers will be lower due to slower lifters off the seat. This means a 249-degree-duration cam becomes a 255-degree cam with little increase in flow capacity. To successfully run hydraulic-roller lifters on a solid-roller profile, the solid cam profile must be a tight-lash grind (under 0.
020-inch hot) with less than 30 degrees difference between the 0. 020- and 0. 050-inch duration specs. Some racers maintain using hydraulic lifters on a solid cam for performance advantages in race classes restricted to hydraulic lifters, but this substitution only works with similar lifter technology and not for street use due to long-term durability issues.
Can I use 20w50 for hydraulic oil?
Lucas Synthetic Blend Hydrostatic Drive Fluid is a long-lasting fluid that prevents leakage and remains in the mower, thereby extending the lifespan of the equipment. It is recommended for all hydrostatic drive systems with SAE 20W-50 fluid, although it should be noted that it is not suitable for engine crankcases.
How do you break-in a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft?
Heat cycles can help reduce break-in wear in hydraulic roller camshafts, such as bushing and needle bearing lifters, or flat tappets. The least amount of recorded wear occurs when the engine is run at 2800 rpm for ten minutes, allowed to cool, and then run again for another ten minutes. The correct viscosity and a proper break-in oil are important for hydraulic roller cam break-in, as today’s hydraulic roller lifters respond best to 10W-40 oil. Many noisy lifter complaints are due to using the wrong viscosity, and 10W-40 provides the correct viscosity for hydraulic lifters.
What is the difference between a solid lifter cam and a hydraulic lifter cam?
Lifters are classified into two types: solid and hydraulic. Solid lifters require valve lash, which generates noticeable valvetrain noise and requires periodic valve adjustments. Hydraulic lifters absorb expansion and shocks with zero lash, providing quiet and maintenance-free operation. However, each style of lifter has its unique features. Aftermarket hydraulic roller lifters (A) can accommodate steep ramp angles on the cam, while the hydraulic feature keeps valvetrain noise minimal.
Roller lifters (B) are solid (also called mechanical), and must be attached or held in their bores to prevent rotation. Lifters C and D are flat tappets, with a slight curve for proper contact with the cam and rotation.
A solid or mechanical lifter is essentially a solid chunk of metal, while a hydraulic lifter is more complex. The plunger can move up and down within the lifter, with engine oil pressure forcing the plunger upward and forces from the valvespring, carried through the pushrod, forcing the plunger down. This absorbs shocks and eliminates clearance in the valvetrain. With hydraulic lifters, valve lash is not necessary as long as lifter preload is adjusted properly. Engine oil also travels through mechanical lifters, acting as a conduit to carry oil to the pushrods.
What is the spring pressure for a flathead valve?
The valve spring pressure of a solid flat tappet can vary considerably, with typical values ranging from 130 to 300 to 325 pounds per square inch.
What oil for hydraulic flat tappet cam?
To ensure the best oil for flat tappet cam engines, use a ZDDP oil additive or a dedicated zinc-enhanced oil with 1, 200 – 2, 400 ppm of zinc at every oil change. Engine break-in oils and additives typically have higher ppm levels, but continuous use of more zinc isn’t recommended. Consult your engine builder for reliable performance formulations and follow recommendations from camshaft manufacturers for warranty claims. Speedway Motors, run by enthusiasts with 3 generations of experience, can provide expert advice on the best oils for your needs.
Can you use solid lifters on a hydraulic flat tappet cam?
Solid lifters can be run on a hydraulic cam, but specific lash settings are needed. The amount of lash depends on the cam profile and the material used to make the block and heads. Too little can cause valve burns, while too much can cause noise. The amount of hot lash typically ranges from 0. 004 to 0. 015 inches. Tight hot-lash settings may cause issues with aluminum blocks and heads, which experience thermal expansion between cold-start and normal operating temperature.
Aluminum heads on an iron block usually work well, with lash expanding about 0. 012 inch from cold to hot. The tighter the lash, the more thermal expansion problems need to be addressed. Comp Cam’s classic Magnum hydraulic rollers usually run fine with solid lifters at 0. 0120. 014-inch hot lash, but its newer, more aggressive Xtreme Energy hydraulic rollers require a tighter lash of 0. 0060. 010 hot.
📹 LS Lifter Comparison – What You Should Run & When!
How to Gap Piston Rings – https://youtu.be/YaVu8FiUhLQ How to Check PTV Clearance – https://youtu.be/blKm2ODrQZ4 How to …
Ok, I know this is an old article, but I saw a couple of comments from less than a year ago. What this guy failed to mention is that flat tappet cam lobes have a taper ground into them (or at least they are supposed to) It should be at least .003 in. The end of the lifter that goes against the cam must have a crown on it, meaning it is higher in the center. If you put the lifter on a completely flat surface, like glass, it will rock from side to side a little. This taper of the cam lobes and crown on the lifters causes the lifters to spin in the bore when the engine is running. If this doesn’t happen, both the cam lobe and the lifter will wear down very quickly. There has been an epidemic of bad cams and lifters lately, made by many different companies, that do not have taper machined into the cam lobes and a crown machined into the lifter, causing them to fail very quickly. I have no idea what has caused this, cams and lifters have been designed and machined like that forever, but something has changed. If you buy a new cam and lifters from ANY company, before installing them, CHECK the taper of the cam lobes and the crown of the lifters. If they don’t have the taper and crown, DON’T install them. Not only will the cam and lifters destroy themselves very quickly, but they will leave metal shavings inside your engine. Just because they are called flat tappet cams doesn’t mean they are perfectly flat. If you get some that are, return them immediately, BEFORE installing them.
this article is also missing a lot of detail as well. such as you need to run certain oils with a flat tappet cam set up and you more than likely need shorter push rods with a roller set up. also you need to make sure the roller lifter do not spin on the cam. you will also need to control cam shaft end play on a roller cam by either a cam plate or cam button. all this is why a fat tappet cam is $300 vs a roller cam is around $800 for a similar grind.
I don’t even like flat tappet anymore. It would be like going backwards to fiber cam gears and other outdated things. But one thing I couldn’t believe last night when reading all the different rebuilder opinions is there’s no consensus on soaking lifters. I remember we did for the flat tappets and it wasn’t all that necessary on rollers but now they don’t even do it on the older lifters. I cleaned my rollers with carb and choke cleaner today and then tossed them in some heavy SM rated 30W for the time it took to clean the others on that side and then put them back and done the other side and repeat. There’s people who insist on soaking them for a week. I’m going to prime the engine with my old 1/4″ drill adapter until I see oil coming out the now pristine push rods. I had planned on replacing some of the things but everything for older vehicles has gotten pretty expensive when you can even find it. Used to be Chevy was a lot cheaper to rebuild but I don’t think that’s the case anymore.
roller cams require higher{much) valve spring pressures,this alone makes me run flat tappet cams,even at that rate,always run the lowest spring pressure you need,added friction on a street engine is just asking for premature damage to keeper,guides,valve recession added load to the chain or gears driving the cam,fortunately this infomercial for SUMMIT does not hurt their sales and is purely informative,stop and go grocery getter needs the mildest cam you can use for cylinder pressure,use zinc oils in everything including your lawnmower,if you run a gm motor-use cam buttons wherever possible,and loosen lifter to block clearance whenever its apart,starting doing this and I found that dynamite is not needed anymore for lifter extraction
I have an LS1 in my 2002 TA. My motor runs strong, has no leaks/ smokes/ etc. I have around 150,000 miles on my motor and want to do a cam swap. I’ve researched many Forums Online, where guys are having no problems swapping cams on high mileage LS1 motors. I see that most guys performing cam swaps are not pulling the heads to replace the lifters. I know what most mechanics would say, but I’ m thinking on doing the same and just Going for it ! With that many miles and as strong as it runs and been maintained, it seems right. I don’t race it and if it goes, then I’m prepared to replace/rebuild. What do you think? Rolling Lifters hold up that well..
With the new rules in Nascar regarding the change from flat to roller tappet cam, what will be the new research and development. What do you think the engineers and engine builders will do to push the limits and gain an advantage over the competition? What will be the biggest challenge when adapting?
Curious about lift numbers/duration.Old small block cams for the street were in the .460 range.Now roller cammed motors have over .525 and this seems really radical for the street to me.Is there some way of figuring out what is making roller cams streetable with such high numbers compared to flat tappet cams? I guess my cam knowledge is from about 1977.
Would you guys happen to have a Cam kit that would work with a 1996 ford 460 efi (I want Hydraulic Roller) because every kit I have seen on your site supports older 460’s (probably back when a 460 didn’t have efi) and none support ’96 460’s. I am getting help from my dad, who practically LIVED within 10 feet of a set of wheels, so I might be able to do some modding if need be to make it work. I also read in forums that the computer doesn’t handle cams very well, but I will not do a Mass-Air-Flow conversion. Any Ideas?
On flat tapped cams do you have to run higher zinc oil can someone text me back and let me know I just have a basic Chevy 350 with 30 over it sounds like it has a wild cam with ceramic headers. Can you let me know if I have to run thicker oil with higher zinc like Royal purple and does it have to be synthetic?
Have a older Camaro with a l98 tune port set up, my question is, I have bought from u guys the LT4 hot can set up complete package set, with the 1.6 roller rockers. And all what I need to go forward on installing it, also ported out the upper and lower pentium and also the lower to match and bought from u the runners to also ported to match, I know that for the best performance I need heads, now do u recommend the intake from elderbrock with vortec heads and this can set up (96 & up pick up truck 5.7) or would u think I should go with AFR Heads? With this set up from the lt4 hot cam package, your staff said I would be fine with a single timing chain so I also bought that to from u guys, but all saved and awaiting on which way to go with the heads? The 195cc or? Also do I need since I am now a roller motor roller lifters as shown in this article? The ones that have the guides to each set of 2, or what ever u reccomend to go, also bought the 22 pound injextors from u with a adjustable fuel pressure to go with this and already installed to, Thanks so much and great parts that I got from u guys and fast shipping to! John Houston tx
Hi Dave I’m restoring an 88 firebird formula 305 tbi with a roller cam setup and I’m planning on sticking with the stock engine setup and just upgrading manifold and headers pipes etc. I don’t really want to change much of the internals what cam would you recommend for my engine setup. The 305 I’m planning on purchasing is direct from oreillys with what I’m guessing oem spec internals and heads.
I have a chevy 355 with 10.1c ..200 runner /64cc heads.. air gap intake, 770 holey street avenger carb, 700r tranny, 373possey rear end, with a 270h cam… I am going to swap out the flat tapped cam with a roller cam.. any size suggestions on the the roller cam..thanks in advance….(lanatti or compcam)
I am building a 383 stroker. I am gonna use scat 9000 crank, scat 4340 forged I beam rods, wiseco forged .030 over pistons. some cast heads 2.02/1.60 and 68cc chambers should be around 10.3:1 compression. a dart shp intake, accel distributer, Hedman headers and a holley 750. I just don’t know what cam would be best. would like to do a roller setup. what cam would you recommend??
So if you are doing a basic article to explain the difference, then do a basic article to explain the difference, basically. E=mc2 means nothing to someone who initially Sees a formulaic equation to Visualizing beyond a general formulation learning basic energy and mass variables. All due respect to your article here, ya gotta get to some basic levels in a tutorial if you are purporting to explain “basics” with auto cams. Least common denominators are good with basic tutorials. Thanks though for at least trying. Kudos.