The AquaRite system offers a range of salt cells, including the T-cell 15, which works with all revisions of the system, but only with revisions 1.5 and higher. The “Pick n Mix” program allows customers to choose their preferred swg, Aqua Rite Pro, or AquaRite. However, older AquaRite systems may have compatibility limitations, as the T-cell 15 will work with all revisions.
The “Pick n Mix” program allows customers to choose their swg, Aqua Rite Pro, or AquaRite, without having to buy a cell. This guide covers OEM vs aftermarket options, compatibility, specifications, warranty details, and pros and cons of replacing salt cells for saltwater pools.
The Total Pool Chemistry Sense and Dispense® ORP (Chlorine) and pH are included in the Total Pool Chemistry Sense and Dispense® system. To replace an existing salt cell, turn off power to the Aqua Rite before removing the electrolytic cell. Inspect inside the cell for scale formation and debris.
The AquaRite Chlorine Generators offer automatic cell cleaning using reverse polarity technology, superchlorinate function, single unit for 120VAC/240VAC 50/60Hz input, and a weatherproof enclosure. The aftermarket replacement salt cell for the Aquarite is guaranteed to work with original systems of the same size with no software/firmware issues. If the scale issue is addressed, the life of your salt cells can be doubled, regardless of the brand.
Some older controllers may require changing a physical jumper on the main board to a newer model. Expert Solutions offers a lineup of aftermarket replacement cells that fit Hayward/Goldline AquaRite models, offering high performance alternatives.
In case of compatibility issues, the compatible replacement for AquaRite Main Circuit Board is pre-configured for T-15 size salt cells, making it only compatible with T-15 salt cells or similar systems.
📹 Hayward vs Blue Works Replacement Aqua Rite Chlorine Generator- Solid Inspect Cell & Check Salt
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📹 Is My Hayward AquaRite Salt Chlorine Generator Working? | No Chlorine | Dead Cell Or Chemistry Issue
Is My Hayward AquaRite Salt Chlorine Generator Working? | No Chlorine | Dead Cell Or Chemistry Issue In this video I discuss …
When I speak with pool owners needing a new cell for their salt system I remind them that these systems are the slow and steady approach to chlorine and especially if the pool has been down for any period of time, it is hard for the system to catch up with the chlorine demand and some externally administered chlorine will go a long way towards getting the pool up and running at normal levels again.
Hello Sir, thank you for posting this. I just bought a new T9 cell after getting low/no chlorine reading. Still no chlorine reading with new cell! I watched your article. I put the old cell in a bucket (new cell still installed) plugged the old cell into the control panel, and the old cell started throwing off thiiikk clouds of chlorine gas! Tested that bucket with a strip and the chlorine readings are off the chart high. So I guess I need to learn about phosphates now…. Thanks Again. -Gashouse Bill
I have a Hayward AquaRite salt system with T-15 cell. I noticed no chlorine output and light from flow switch stayed on. After cleaning /inspecting cell, I found critter damage to cord from t-cell to control panel. Also flow switch cord bitten in half. After seeing wires chewed thru,I was able to see why no chlorine. Is there any way to repair chewed cord or would I have to replace with new cell and switch?
I teated my salt cell t15 and it works. I have no free chlorine this year. I keep adding stabilizer and nothing seems to wprk for my water to hold chlorine more than 3 days. Is my mother board on my hateard aquarite bad? I only see power light on. I flip to super chlorinate and no light. I hit diagnostic button amd only number i see is temp and volts. All other number are 0. Screen numbers do move. Any help?
I’m a little late to the party here. Most of us don’t have another dummy cell to put in line to do your bucket test. Rather than doing this, a buddy of mine said you can do a jet test. What that is it’s just capture some of the water coming out of the jet after it’s gone through the cell and test for chlorine. This will tell you if your cell is generating chlorine. I tried it and it works great. In case the phosphate level was fine, but nitrates were off the chart.
I have the Hayward T-15 and it was replaced about 2.5 years ago. Upon recent testing I don’t think it’s generating any chlorine. My chlorine levels are bottomed out and been that way for a while. I noticed on my panel my voltage is at 30 but 0 amps showing on the panel. I did out of desperation throw in a 6oz chlorine tablet yesterday to try and do something. My testing today was only.4 combined and .6 free chlorine. I don’t have a dummy to use to test it like u did. Any ideas of how else to test it?