Grip-Rite® is a popular brand of fasteners in the U.S., known for its corrosion-resistant exterior screw coatings. These screws are designed for wood-to-wood applications, with coarse threads that reduce splitting and speed installation. They are compatible with tools from Grip-Rite, Grabber, Hitachi, and Milwaukee. Grip-Rite’s PrimeGuard Plus coating ensures lifelong beauty and durability, while ultra-coated screws are compatible with ACQ and Pressure Treated lumber. These screws are suitable for various materials, including PVC, wood, composite decking, trim, and railings. The T-20 star drive head guarantees a flush finish, and they are backed by a limited lifetime warranty. Makita continues to innovate and perfect products that work as hard as they do, ensuring that their products work as hard as they do.
📹 Best Deck Screw? GRK vs SPAX, Grip Rite, Deckmate, WoodPro, FastenMaster, Deck Plus, Eagle Claw
Deck Screw Brands: GRK, SPAX, Deckmate, Woodpro, Deck Drive, FastenMaster, PowerPro, Grip Rite, Deck Plus, Velocity, and …
Can Grip-Rite construction screws be used for subfloor?
The Grrip-Rite® subfloor screw is utilized for the secure fastening of subfloor sheathing to wood joists, rendering it an appropriate choice for a multitude of crating and pallet applications. The product is designed to attach gypsum board to wood studs or light-gauge steel, which makes it a popular choice for a variety of applications.
Are GRK screws stronger than lag bolts?
GRK’s RSS™ Rugged Structural Screw is a low-effort, easy-to-install structural fastener designed for strong connections and fast start times. It eliminates pre-drilling, offers low torque, and reduces wobble between screws and GRK bits. The screw’s engineered design results in a low-effort installation, especially compared to conventional lag screws. It is approved for use in treated lumber and features a Star Drive Recess for zero stripping. Not available in all sizes.
What is the alternative to GRK screws?
Spax screws offer a limited lifetime warranty with GRK, but with an added corrosion protection guarantee for those with zinc or WIROX coating. They are engineered from hardened steel, making them resistant to shear under typical applications. Spax-engineered fasteners are heat-treated to Grade 5 durability, designed with 4CUT point and patented thread serrations for less torque during installation.
SPAX screws with HCR-X™ coating are rust-resistant, protecting various materials like lumber, sheet metal, plastic, and concrete. Available in various sizes, SPAX screws are strong, durable, and require zero pre-drilling.
What are Grip-Rite screws used for?
Grrip-Rite® is a reliable source for construction screws suitable for various indoor applications such as framing, trims, shelving, doors, cabinetry, and general woodworking. These screws feature T-25 star heads for a flush finish and fast engagement, as well as dual flat heads with nibs that cut into and sit flush with the material surface. They are ideal for framing, trims, shelving, doors, cabinetry, and general woodworking.
Are deck screws as strong as wood screws?
Deck screws are stronger and more durable than wood screws, with a larger capacity to hold more weight. They are typically made from stainless steel or copper for increased durability. Deck screws are commonly used for outdoor tasks like building decks and fencing. Wood deck screws have an unthreaded shank and coarse-threaded portion, while composite deck screws have finer threads and a smaller head.
Some screws also have an extra thread set to prevent composite material mounding at the screw’s head. Despite their similarities, deck screws have different purposes and are often used for outdoor projects.
Do you need to pre drill for GRK screws?
GRG RSS does not necessitate predrilling of wood; however, if the fastener is not fully driving in dense wood, such as mahogany, or if excess torque causes splitting or stripping, it is recommended that a pilot hole be predrilled for easier installation.
What is Grip-Rite used for?
ShingleLayment is a lightweight underlayment solution designed to protect shingles from tears, boot traffic, and wrinkling. It is a lightweight version of the ShingleLayment-15 Pro ®, featuring a substrate made from woven 8-by-8 scrim polypropylene and a non-skid polypropylene coating for a secure walking surface. The surface features texture to increase friction and provide more traction. ShingleLayment can be used under any roofing project using mechanical attachments. This high-quality product minimizes damage risk and provides toughness and durability, increasing confidence on the project site. It is more lightweight, energy-efficient, and powerful than felt.
What is the coating on deck screws?
Deck screws are designed to last longer than wood screws for outdoor projects due to their rust-resistant coating, such as stainless steel or copper. These screws prevent corroding and resist wet weather conditions. Wood screws, used for joinery and furniture, are sometimes uncoated but most have a coating for increased durability. Understanding the range of screws available is helpful for working with wooden or composite decks.
Deck screws offer better durability, resistance to water, and better connection between board and joist due to thread design. The length of deck screws and wood screws is determined by project length, deep joins, head sizes, and point designs.
What is the best screw for screwing down subfloor?
FastenMaster’s PAM-Fast system is the preferred choice for interior and exterior subfloor installation, allowing for faster and easier installation without compromising quality, reliability, and stability. The right FastenMaster Fastener is essential for ensuring a long-lasting grip, as any screw may not suffice for subfloor security. The PAM-Fast system is a reliable and efficient solution for subfloor installation.
Can I use deck screws for woodworking?
Deck screws are ideal for outdoor projects requiring wet and tough weather, while wood screws are suitable for indoor projects or those not exposed to elements. Deck screws are suitable for pressure-treated lumber and hardwoods and are suitable for a broader range of materials. If cost is a concern, wood screws may be more economical, but the long-term durability and performance of deck screws may justify the higher initial cost.
How tight should grip screws be?
In order to tighten the grip screws, it is necessary to use a tool or torque wrench that is properly fitted for the task. The screws should then be subjected to a torque of approximately 15 inch-pounds, which will ensure that they remain in position. The retention of grip screws in a secure and fixed position is contingent upon the presence of friction.
📹 Don’t Use Screws That Are TOO LONG or TOO SHORT! (Screw Length/How To Choose The Right Screw Length)
(These are affiliate links. When you shop through these links, we receive a small commission at NO EXTRA CHARGE TO YOU.
Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the article description. Thank you! SPAX: amzn.to/35ENWjr GRK: amzn.to/3IO64W5 WoodPro: amzn.to/3KX2CKy FastenMaster: amzn.to/3AFAwPv PowerPro: amzn.to/3u8qrJt Grip Rite: amzn.to/32NFBsA Deck Plus: amzn.to/3GezkUa Velocity: amzn.to/3ufQy1d Eagle Claw: amzn.to/3rapApJ DeckMate: Available at Home Depot Deck-Drive: Available at Lowes
There are a few YouTube websites I watch where people attempt to “test” things or claims. Project Farm, by a long shot, is the best. You do your damndest every single time to fairly and scientifically test products (and even torture test) and I definitely appreciate your hard work. I’ve made several purchases based on your testing and have never been disappointed.
You know, PF gets a lot of compliments about the resource and information that his articles provide and I appreciate that as well, but I don’t think he gets enough praise for how entertaining these articles are as well. Every time I start perusal the website, I end up perusal all his articles again, I’ve seen them all a few times, that’s how entertaining they are. It’s kind of like mythbusters and I loved that show. Project farm is like a mythbusters that saves you money at the same time, as PF would say, very impressive.
There’s actually a very interesting story about the grk screws. The original owner made sure they were manufactured in either the US or Germany, and eventually brought the majority of manufacturing here to the US. Eventually one of the evil Omni mega corps bought him out, but the terms of the buy out stated the US manufacturing had to remain open. The new owner violated that, shipped manufacturing to Taiwan, and the quality took a massive crap. However, due to them violating the terms of the agreement, the original owner, with hundreds of millions of dollars, opened u2 fasteners built to the same original standards with a few new improvements to design and production. Ran grk out of town in the northwest. And brought American manufacturing back. This all took place around 2016
I built my mom’s back porch with 1/4 inch lag bolts and SPAX deck screws. Thanks for letting me know that my arbitrary decision in fasteners wasn’t a poor one. I’ve only recently discovered this website but I have been perusal a lot of your articles and am becoming increasingly grateful for what you do and look forward to learning more from your testing and experimentation.
Not just this article, but every article I’ve watched of yours are just absolutely awesome… You leave no stone unturned when it comes to testing products… I personally think you should have way more subscribers… I’ve made plenty of purchases based off your testing and have not been disappointed… Please keep the vids coming.
Great article! I randomly grabbed Spax a few weeks ago and it was daunting to look at all the different screw options at Menards. As a newer Home Owner, I enjoy perusal your content as it helps me feel more confident in what tools I buy for fixing my home. I think a great article would be for clamps, like bar clamps for wood. There are so many out there and I would imagine some brands will have a much more resilent and stronger design than others. Thank you as always!
I love how thorough your test matrix is, and the spreadsheet at the end is so helpful. It would be great to have a link to an Excel spreadsheet version, especially for people comparing products based on which criteria are most relevant to our applications (for example, I always use a corded Milwaukee driver and I don’t build anything professionally, so I don’t care if a screw takes a little longer to install…but corrosion and pull-out force are critical, when I build something I want it to last!)
This is an excellent analysis! I’ve often gone back & forth with myself about which screws are “best.” I use a lot of GRK & Simpson because they are code approved replacements for certain nails. For times where I don’t necessarily need a code approval, but still want a good screw, this will be a great guide!
Personally I use Spax after using a few different brands. I found that over time the Spax stayed tight better than others. Having a screw stay in place, for me anyway, is more important than a little extra effort to install. I have only used SS one time and that was on a dock. They did excellent during the build but after a season I had to go back and tighten most of them down. Of course alot of it is from wood shrinking especially with pressure treated. I did use Spax on a redwood one time from customer request. I told him that I would not guarantee that it wouldn’t discolor at every screw point. Two years later it still had not discolored hardly any at all. Only a couple areas had a very slight discolor. Of course I pre drill everything with a counter sinking bit so that helped I guess. All structural gets galvanized ring shank by hand, never cared for a nail gun for build decks. But over all Spax has proven to be a extremely good deck screw. The cost is only slightly more than deck mate but the over all performance is well worth it. Thanks again another great article, I honestly look forward to getting that notification from you. Keep up the great work, it truly does help us make a informed decision.
Thanks again, I really apreciate all of your time, effort, and expense. You have saved me much money, and made my life better. I watched this vid again because I’m building a shed and remembered your work. A few months ago I built a cargo trailer with wood, and used a lot of drywall screws as it was for one trip. As I dismantled it to start the shed, I found most of the screws with rust. It had not even rained on it. Again, thank you very much.
Hey, one of my suggestions got tested! Really appreciate it! Especially the starting test on the drill press! When you have to install 1000+ of them, that makes all the difference. The Grip Fast brand from Menards seems to be particularly poor at that and are such a pain that they’re almost not worth using
Speaking as an engineer, I’m impressed that the variances are as small as they are. This tells me, you can’t go wrong with deck screws — plan for loads a modest fraction of the failure point and any will handle it. That just leaves individual variation in stuff like coating quality, and, the elephant in the room, consistency of the wood being driven into (which from other data I’ve seen, looks to be much worse!). Nice to see a stainless screw on here, I’d think those are fairly specialty (coastal salt spray, industrial environments?), shame they apparently aren’t as strong but to me that’s just a compromise for using something exceptional otherwise.
IN-Line Torque Adapter? What?! Of course, you have one of those on hand. It doesn’t seem to matter what piece of equipment I go to research, Project Farm pops up with the most thorough review partnered with fantastic demonstrations. Why do I bother perusal any other website when it comes to tools I “need”. Simply the best, well-deserved priority in all searches.
I’ve installed and removed a lot of these screws over the years. It doesn’t seem to matter much which ones you use about 1/3 to 1/4 of them break off right where the threads stop on the shank. I’m in the upper Midwest where we have a hard freeze/thaw cycle, I think they stretch and break when the wood swells and shrinks in the Winter, Spring. I was really surprised because I always tried to buy a decent screw but it really didn’t seem to make much difference, there were always quite a few broken screws when I tried to remove them after a few years and you can usually tell when they break on install. I’ve also used the smaller screws to install T111 and they fared even worse because of the moisture held by the plywood. They were usually rotted off or would just break when removed. And just incase you wonder, no I did not ever use drywall screws for any of these applications.
I’ve been using GRK and Spax as my primary screws for years now. The primary reason being the fit of the bit out of the box and the fact that I don’t believe I’ve ever had a bit shear before I finished a box. Generally Spax is my go to all rounder for 2″-4″ with GRK being my choice for their smaller and lag bolts. Sometimes it is worth that bit of extra money for consistent performance.
Great job as always. As the winter season ultimately falls upon us, I suggest testing sidewalk salts. The price varies wildly amongst the brands. Even more curious is how something like water softener salt stacks up being it’s roughly 1/4 the cost. It’s price blows my mind because it’s washed and cleaned, certified for human consumption, while what is available to throw on your sidewalk is far more expensive…
I’M SO GLAD YOU MENTIONED NAILS HAVING MORE SHEAR STRENGTH 💪 SO MANY PEOPLE IN THE INDUSTRY USE SCREWS WHERE NAILS ARE NEEDED AND NAILS WHERE SCREWS ARE NEEDED. SCREWS SQUEEZE TWO THINGS TOGETHER (TENSILE STRENGTH), NAILS STOP TWO THINGS FROM SLIDING APART (SHEAR STRENGTH) . WANT TORNADO 🌪 RESISTANT? USE BOTH!
Todd — This article made me tear up since I suggested it to you on my dad’s behalf. He was always interested in your fastener articles. Sadly, my dad died a week ago of a heart attack. He and I are big fans of your website. Thank you so much for improving the lives of little people like us with your authentic reviews ❤ 🤯🤯🤯 article Ideas 🤯🤯🤯 • Best food vacuum-sealer • Best work socks for work boots • Best latex gloves for auto work • Best emergency poncho for roadside repairs or the football game • Best safety wire tool (careful: too much safety-wiring by hand can cause carpal tunnel syndrome or other wrist injury) • Strongest safety wire • Best portable oxy acetylene torch kit • Best economy welder (TIG, MIG, stick) • Best welding apron • Best denim overalls for work • Best work jeans • Best full face shield • Best heavy duty ratchet straps (such as the classic yellow cargo straps used by truckers)
We love perusal your articles, no BS, straight to the point, informative! As someone who isn’t mechanically inclined I’m learning a lot AND what brands to buy when I need it. Your articles are much appreciated and very entertaining. Please never stop. Subbed, liked every article, doing what we can for you 👍 God Bless.
I’m so glad I found this website. I would love to see a article on the best engine parts cleaning solution. I just dismantled my 67′ VW Beetle engine and it has stubborn grease deposits on nearly every part and surface. There are so many solvents and solutions on the market; I would love to see them go head-to-head.
Absolutely loved this! Now I would really really like to see this done again, except with multi material construction screws. In particular Spax, mostly because according to the box they are meant to go into concrete. I want to see a article just like this testing out that multi material claim. In particular going in to sheet metal, concrete and drywall (no anchor). Is there a savings (and safety!) In using a multi material construction screw or are you better off with focus fired screws such as tapcon, expansion anchors, sheet metal screws or drywall anchors?
I know it has been said time and time again but I’ll add my voice. You have provided an invaluable service to those of us without the means or technical knowledge to discern which products to spend our hard earned money on. Thank you from the bottom of my heart and godspeed in all your future endeavors.
I’d like the thoughts of others about pre-drilling with these screws. Many say they don’t need it, but I have found that taking the time to make pilot holes really makes for a cleaner result that seems to stay tightened for longer. Is this just chance (or a myth), and is there a science with how the wood fibers work with the fastener with and without pilot holes?
Grk is my go to screw and in my experience it had performed the best for me. Im glad you did this test because now im probably going to add grip rite into my selection. I doubt ill use it in structural applications but it will save me some money on other jobs. Thanks for all the hard work that you do!
SPAX are awesome, you can pull anything together, close a gap or drive them darn near all the way through the board and out the other side if you want I just wish they used the more common t25 size torx bit and the are pretty expensive. The grip right from Lowes are my basic go to unless I need something special.
Interesting results! It will definitely have me looking closer at my normal deck screws when I remove them from temporary projects. I already had the unpleasant experience of removing SPAX deck screws that were maybe 10 years old: they held up much worse than whatever other brand the previous owner used (it was a less distinctive design) – nearly all the SPAX corroded and either stripped out the head, or the head snapped off. For those I could remove, they were far more eaten away than the other brand. I definitely won’t be buying any. I’ve had some of the larger GRK structural screws, and they hold up well so far, including in reuse.
Definitely one of the best websites on youtube! Suggestion: It would be nice to see comparison charts on which screw would be best for which application ex: for low-corrosion environments this is the strongest bang for your buck, for reduced drilling time & effort this screw is great for lightweight projects. Sometimes it’s not only about best-of-the-best. I guess what I’m trying to say is it could be helpful to compare related charts before the final conclusion.
Thanks for this awesome performance comparison, PF! And congrats on filling an arena with people concerned about deck screws (amazing in itself). Oh…and great point on nails vs screws…hot dip galvanized spiral shank deck nails will be going strong after every screw gives up the ghost, and probably long after the the sun burns out from what I’ve seen. Cheers!
After building dozens of decks, installing cabinets, building raised beds and installing various structural and non-structural elements over the years I by chance settled on GRK and Spax and the go to’s with Grip RIte as the third alternate. Fortunately most people won’t pay extra for the GRK or Spax screws so they always seem to be available. A bonus by default. The only issue I ever had with Grip Rite was the higher rate of unusuable screws due to excess coating application clogging the drive slots. And the rare shearing of the head when driven into harder, old wood. Maybe that’s not a factor now but I can’t remember a GRK or Spax screw shearing off. I’m sure it happened but not often enough to stick with me.
Not screwing around in this article. We all LOVE these articles…kind of use them as a reference library for buying, tire inflators, drill press cutting oil, masking tape, automotive ceramic coating, grease, glue and the list keeps going…just hope this website helps pay the bills…off to buy some merch!
Great information & timely for me as I’ve got two decks to build this spring. I do wish you had tested torque to twist off a screw and torque to camout the drive – those were the problems I’ve had with stainless Phillips and square drive. Frustrating to run a screw in and then have the head twist off while countersinking itself.
FWIW as a result of wood rot, I replaced all the decking on my deck in 2009 with treated wood. The old screws were horribly corroded (I don’t think they even used coated screws), so I wanted to make sure the same thing didn’t happen. So I bit the bullet and bought stainless steel screws. The deck is in a shady location, so dampness is an issue, plus the winters here are harsh. 11 years later I had to disassemble part of the steps to route some gutter drains underneath them. The screws had no visible corrosion. Same story on some other boards I removed and replaced from rot from carpenter ants. I’d say sulfuric acid is a shade too aggressive of a corrosion agent against stainless.
Great article as always. I would be curious to see the initial coating loss vs loss after removal. Analysis after passing through a 1″ piece of oak would be interesting. Also, I like a little play it the torx bit. Snug is nice, but my go to bit holder isn’t always a locking bit holder. It gets to be a pita when you have to retrieve the bit after each drive.
Nice article, I’ve had you playing out on the shop all day. As someone whos done a few dozen decks, Spax and GRK are my go to screws. At the start, one of the things inspected was the fitment of the driver bit. Being too loose is bad, but overly tight is, I’d argue worse. When your screwing a few thousand screws, its the same motion over and over. A tight fit from screw to bit often holds onto or binds together. Trying to lift out of the screw is made much harder, having to wiggle the drill around, pulling away perfectly vertical, or popping the bit out of its chuck. All that adds up to wasted energy, time and wear on the tools. I like the Spax brand screws because of their bit designs. That round part of the end sits into the screw, giving more engagement driving down, but without holding on the screw pulling back. GRK still uses normal torxs bits, but they drive and pull away nicely. 1 thing I wish you had tested, driving the screw between 2 objects. The tpi and design of the tip can make a huge difference in how well it drives into the 2nd object, and how much downward force is needed to keep the 2 objects from pushing apart. A material like Trex would make for a good starting object, because its rather uniform and somewhat tuff. As well as an actual decking material.
First, thanks for this article! You’ve answered a few questions, there. Second, as someone who’s driven literally tens of thousands of screws, including most of these brands, I’d have to say that the two most significant factors are ease of start, and resistance to de-heading. Once the screw has a start, it’s not really a big deal how quickly they drive, eh? We’re mostly using cordless, in the trades, and the drill will drive more slowly at the end of the charge, anyway. And at least one of these brands has an unpleasant tendency to pop directly below the head- I’m not going to call them out, but I suspect other pros will know which one I’m speaking of….
Love your articles. I have learned so much and take your tests and recommendations seriously. Would you be open to testing different brands of oil filters? I’ve heard over the years that Fram is not good, but haven’t any definitive proof. Would be great to see what kind of tests you could come up with.
I find this very confusing when compared to my own experience. Some decades ago I built a 20 x 40 cedar deck and used Deckmate screws with square drive, as sold by my local big-box store. After 30 years of use, I rebuilt the deck with new cedar, but the big-box store no longer carried the Deckmate screws. Fortunately, I found them online through a giant online retailer named after a big river, and they appeared to come directly from the manufacturer. The new screws seemed to be identical to the old ones except that they sported the “PoziSquare” drive. They worked out great. But my concern with this article review is that my modern Deckmate screws look like a work of art when compared to the ones shown in closeup in the article. Are screws ever counterfeited? It might be nice to build my next big project using SS screws. Most Deckmate screws came out during the overhaul without any hassle, but corrosion from decades of NW rains reduced some screws to junk, requiring extra effort.
Just used about 3000 deckmates building a deck. They stay coated upon entry. Immediate renoval would cause more friction heat and remove the coating. Many screws I pulled back out would be coated but the other half would have fading or open spots. Just thought I would point this out since you shouldn’t have to remove the screw if you did it right the first time.
I have to say, the only important test is the pull out force. If you worry about corrosion buy stainless steel. All the other factors come in when you start working with 8mm/200mm screws moving upwards. This is where expensive screws like Spax, Heco, Würth(forgive me for only using German products I live there) shine. Heco has one of the best screws in my opinion. They produce selfthightening full threaded screws, either by changing the threading angle or splitting the threading in half again with different threading on each part. They go so far to change the diameter of the screw to assure a good grip after the first half of the screw passed by. And rust isn’t always bad. I have worked on roofs made in 15XX with the original handmade nails still holding the wood together, rust does help a lot that the buildings don’t break down. Sure if you use force(more than what nature offers when it’s windy) they can break, but in most cases the old wood breaks first leaving you with the hardest nails to pull out.
I love your vids, watch everyone . I have some more suggestions of things you can test : Best anti-fog for eyeglasses, Best hand cleaner, Best paper towels, Best engine degreaser, Best soap for greasy pots and pans, Best solar powered lights for the farm. Just a few for now. Hope that helps . Keep up the good work. Thanks.
Hey Project Farm, I’d love to see a rechargeable flashlight comparison, I searched your website for some but I didn’t see any so maybe it’d make for a great article. Some cool metrics would be beam distance, durability (eq running over it with a car), water resistance, battery life, functionality (glass breaker, light modes etc). Just to name a few, love your articles as always, said it before and I’ll say it again, this is the best science website on the platform! <3
Video Recommendation: A comparison of Screw Head types (Phillips, hex, torx, square, pozidriv, etc). Compare resistance to stripping, re-usability (for things that sometimes need to be unscrewed and rescrewed back together again). Personal feeling: Slotted or Phillips heads should never be used again.
Awesome test! very off topic from screws, but how about a review of trash bags? specifically 13 gallon whites, actual volume, actual shear strength, and ability to withstand tearing. and the big black contractor bags for the garage trash cans that take some bigger abuse as well. Thanks for the awesome vidoes @projectfarm !
Lifetime guarantee against rust and corrosion! Yes! Really though, has anyone ever tried to redeem on that warranty on screws??? Guess that is the kind of thing that gets executives big a bonus… I’m also curious why you didn’t run screws flush on the driving test as driving for me means all the way in.
I just had a spax construction screw snap while driving it. It was not over driven, and I was using it to hang a multi monitor hanger on my wall. Now I have a piece of screw sticking out of the sheet rock, too small to grab, and too big to patch over. Guess I’ll have to take an angle grinder to it and then patch. NOT HAPPY!! I think it’s because it’s going into OLD wood, which gets much harder over time.
I might have to revisit Spax. I had given up on them after having so many of them snap on me going into old wood. Did not have that issue with Deckmate of the same size and length. Not surprising when it was so hard to start the Deckmate. That has been a constant source of irritation for me. We use a lot of screws around the farm, so price is certainly a considertation.
I just built a deck and seen this right when I finished, I used the deck mate and some deck plus I had already to match the color of cedar. Cedar is so expensive now, guess was worse last year, but I went into replacing rails and decking thinking, should only cost me like $700 in wood and I used the 5/4 not 2×4. I was able to get about 100sf free never used off offer up is reason I went 5/4, but didn’t touch the cost. Still cost me way more, around $1700. Now need best deck solid deck coating article 🙂 I did buy a Graco project painter to help time and I have a 120 foot cedar fence to spray.
Hi Todd! I love your website, just wanted to say that I think it would benefit the tests to include what tool you use to drive the screws in and mention whether it’s fully charged between each screw or whatever for future tests. Also, can you test different types of wood/lumber for strength and application? Thanks!
I have to agree with the previous commentators about this guy. “He is a force of nature”, one said. I heartily agree. His scientific and ultra methodical approach is undeniable. The information is so comprehensive that I can’t imagine how anyone could be more so. Some of his test rigs are pure genius. And yes, highly entertaining, in a way only a geek can fully appreciate. He gets in more FPS (Facts Per Second) than I would have thought possible. I swear, his day job must be either an auctioneer or a sports announcer! This is the 6th article I’ve watched so far, more to follow. The circular saw blade one blew my mind….
I’ve never given much thought to the quality of deck screws. Since they have a protective coating, I figured that they’re all about the same! Boy, was I wrong!! I’ve used some of the brands tested here and I would like to say I can feel a difference or see how one holds up better, but I can’t … well, I did notice that the SPAX was easier to drive and more consistent, but for me, the added cost didn’t justify the purchase. As a thought, how about testing different brands of nails. How easy they bend, how easy they pull out and how easy it is to break them. And also how easy it is to damage the head (so it can’t be pulled out). And of course, corrosion resistance and how badly it stains the wood!
It’s hard to believe something beat the SPAX. We use them when we need to hang cabinets on cinderblock wall because they are galvanized and they hold pretty good. They are not as good as Tapcons but they are pretty good. A lot of schools use cinderblock. The SPAX that came from Germany I think were a little stronger. Thanks.
I’ve spoken to people who build decks on a regular basis and all said they use stainless screws. They say it’s a no brainer and if you soap the screws prior to install, they go in easier. That’s an old timer trick I learned way back before screws were a thing. Despite the test results, stainless is pretty easy choice and less prone to come out and have long term reliability. Some don’t or won’t agree. That’s their prerogative and choice. I’ll stick with what I know works and long term reliability is unquestionable. You use what you like. Customers like things that don’t cause trouble in the future and hang well over time. They are right and they pay the bill. Duh! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
Not reviewed here, but for those in the Midwest: Grip fast triple coated deck screws are awful to drive, but they were good up until recently. I used to be able to drive any grip fast deck screw easily with an m12 or M18 surge, but not these. Not anymore. Avoid them. Deckmate are fine GRK #9 or #10 2.5″ or 3.125″ are excellent. Amazing, even. Their lags and trim screws are great, too. I hold them above all other screws. They hold up great over time, too. It’s only like $5 difference on a 5lb box of GRK vs the cheaper Gripfast and deckmate. Also, I’ve seen those green grip rites come out of rotten old decks in pristine condition, like you could just use them all again if you wanted to. I’ve never bought or used them, though.
Had an idea. The synthetic fuels that are out nowadays like the VP small engine 4 cycle fuel and truefuel 4cycle fuel and all the others. Some claim a 5-year shelf life and 2 years fresh in the tank. Do specific brands give you more power or an effect on torque? Do the exhaust temps read differently? Ill let you ponder from here lol
This testing makes me feel pretty good about my choice of buying/using SPAX screws. Amazing how he thinks of testing methods and does them. I wonder how much time goes into doing all these tests on all these brands? I would think several days, if not more. LOL, how does any house work get done?! Wife: “Honey, will you PLEASE take out the garbage?” Todd: “Almost done testing here, give me a couple more days!”
I installed about 2500 Deckmate screws. I’ve had to replace very many for snapping at the smooth part of the shaft. The problem is they would snap during the drying process of the wood. I noticed the deck boards seeming a little loose and I go to back the screws out and they just spin in place. I’ve had to replace probably 15% of the screws. I would say your rating of the dick bait is dead on! Thanks for the article!
Hello Project Farm, I recently watched your article where you made your lawnmower run on gas vapor and it had me thinking. Would you be able to make a gasoline powered generator run using a wood gasifier? For those who split and burn wood to power houses, would it be a viable redundancy to convert a gas powered generator to run on the same fuel source as a wood stove. If you could make it work it would be very impressive! Thanks for all the great articles!
I wish I had seen this article before starting a small project. I’ve never paid a lot of attention to screw brands. This time I grabbed DeckMate and they are AWFUL to start without a pilot hole. They are downright blunt-tipped, and it shows in the article. I need to remember to search this website before I buy anything and Lowe’s or Home Depot!
So, I have experience with the SPAX 1 1/2″ deck screws. My experience is, on a piece of white oak, they strip easily with torque. I’ve had screws (wish o could remember), that would almost countersink through the plank to the other side. I’m not impressed with them personally. Anyone else have a good/bad experience with SPAX brand screws?
I can’t tell you how much I love this website. I will not buy anything without checking with you first, and I almost always buy the product that you recommend. What an invaluable resource! After perusal the deck screw reviews I have to ask: have you considered testing composite deck boards? I currently have a bunch of people asking me which one to buy, all because of a brief comment on the Nextdoor app. Around here (Houston) we have intense heat and tons of rain and wood just doesn’t cut it. Pretty much everyone with a wooden deck, dock, or walkway wants to or needs to replace it with composite. Along with composite we’re all looking at aluminum, plastic, and the Weardeck fiberglass (a leading contender). Man would we love to see you do your thing on all of these options!
My problem with this test is that it weights the different areas equally. Let’s face it, shear strength and pull resistance are nice, but you usually have a LOT of screws in a deck board. It’s not going anywhere. But corrosion resistance is not additive. ALL the screws can fail early if they each rust. I would give 50% of the weight to corrosion resistance and spread the other 50% across the remaining features.
Have you considered hiring someone to double the number of tests you can run? Would be helpful to have a similar article for automotive… or which head type strips least or has the best grip. Test out differed tool materials or coating types. Are diamond coated tool heads really gonna be “Diamond-Strong!!”? I know you can’t do every test under the sun, but people are hungry for the content you put out. Would be nice to have to look elsewhere less and less for answers.
I know it’s more expensive but I only use stainless steel 3″ screws. Even though it’s says “lifetime” on the box, the coated carbon screws rust away in no time when used in corrosive treated wood. It also prematurely destroys the deck when it rust away. I view “lifetime” carbon deck screws as a scam.
I’m currently resurfacing a decent sized deck 20 x 40 feet. In the past I had used the HD Deckmate brand. After perusal this article I decided to go with Griprite, Griprite seems to have the cost to performance ratio correct. The color seems to be the most curios thing about the product, not sure I get that part of the deal. HD sells the Philips version of the product so I ended up buying from Loews that has the Torx version. Your link to Griprite is not correct on Amazon or at least the picture is inaccurate. The guidance as always is much appreciated. Thank You!
316 stainless over 304 for higher rust resistance 👌🏻 you also don’t ever need to worry about coatings failing or rubbing off. The issue is more with the head of the screw rusting over time. I’ve seen plenty of coating screws heavily rusted during demos, but stainless often will have a tarnish but rarely deep rust (unless in high salt environments) stainless all the way.
I made some raised garden beds in the backyard of a house using some coated deck screws(triple coated I think, maybe grip rite, something from menards). About 7-8 years later I did some repairs because the wood was rotted/deteriorated and the screws i had used were nearly new condition while in direct soil and wood contact through all seasons including sub zero temps.
Good article always very thorough I hate to say it though but from what I can see I wouldn’t call any of those deck screws because they don’t have a bugle head Here in Australia I’ve done a bit of decking I can tell you now the best deck screw is an 83 mm stainless steel screw that’s a 14 gauge shaft and a 12 gauge bugle head with a six point torx style. Some companies copy them in 304 stainless and they’re okay as well the original brand from Germany is a touch over a dollar each Australian per screw which is about a dollar US each Stainless steel bugle head torx can’t beat it…..
The delivery of the information is at the right speed for my ADHD-hampered attention span. No need to bump up the vidoe playback speed. The depth of analysis satisfies my curiosity and I feel confident that the information I am given is thoughtful and well vetted. I am thankful for your content. Please keep up the great work!
Excellent set of tests. Comprehensive. I’ve been using SPAX stainless screws for exterior treated wood and redwood – I know they are “softer” and I was (pleasantly) surprised at how well the stainless screw performed. Especially since I had little choice according to the various manufacturers’ instructions. Thanks for the review.
The only way to describe this test is “Very Impressive “. If you do this test again consider drilling in Ipe wood for an extra test. It has an uncanny ability at breaking screws. I am a fan of Spax, they don’t break or cam out as much as the other brands especially with tropical hardwoods, black locust and osage orange.
If they use any screws at all, instead of nails, those are better deck-builders than I’ve seen. Every house I’ve lived-in that has had a deck, has inevitably been built with nails that have started to pull up over time. Sometimes it’s possible to clamp-down the warped boards, pull out the loose nails, and replace them with screws…but not always.
Interesting. I do understand that the e3 n popstar we’re more efficient but I wonder how that worked how with whp though. Since more fuel efficient is it actually reducing the power possibly or is it a increase. In the speed world more fuel burned usually equals more powerful so with that said fuel efficiency would be very cool if it also had a increase in power as well over the ngk plugs? However NGK makes a very good quality plug I have always used them as a main go too. The answer to thing would be real nice to know.
A question I want to know is. from what it seems like right?? are they just 1 factory that are just producing different variants of screws under different brand names? why are they all coming out of one country? 😂 to me 50% of the screws all basically look the same 😂😂😂 like its very strange… but then if only 5% of that idea could theoretically be true how can they have drastically wild and different results. 😂 like its very interesting on hiw can this even happen why do we need 8+ different versions of a screw… 😅 kind of seems counterintuitive.
One more great article from PF. I’ve used at least 4 of the brands tested and have found SPAX, GRK, Deckmate as well as Grip Rite. Prefer the GRK followed by SPAX. With that said, all have done the job just fine with little or no rusting here in the snowy Northeast winters. My only comment to the test is that you probably need to use the “usual” sopping wet treated decking lumber and to screw two pieces together of 5/4 and/or 2 x ? for a comparative analysis,
I am curious if the GuardDog has the best fitting bit… If so that’ll slow down the application too.. Trying to remove a well fitting bit takes an extra pull! See 10:35 in the article.. I would imagine a sloppy fitting bit would decrease install time.. both setting the bit into the screw for driving and releasing. Meaning, driving more screws – the sloppier the fit. LOL IMHO! 🙂
Great article! except the brand’s could have been color codes on the comparison chart to indicate country of origin. This matters to me as I would like to support the US if competitive, I have no problem buying from Taiwan, but I absolutely would pay twice as much, or more, to avoid stuff made in Communist China.
Your articles are excellent. I can tell you put a lot of thought and effort into what aspects to test and the testing methods. I do have one technical suggestion about reporting results. It is not proper to calculate an average on rank ordered data because the distance between the items ranked is not uniform (the number of additional pounds it took to break the #1 ranked screw compared to the #2 screw was not the same as the difference between #2 and #3, etc.) You could calculate a Spearman Rho Correlation on your rank ordered data. It would be interesting to see what the difference in your results would be. If you did, you would be more accurate and it would be a fairer comparison. The relationship between the test results would also be more accurately reflected. One thing you could try is an average of the items that used the same measurement scale and in the same direction. Where having pounds of torque, pounds of pressure, etc. indicates a better product, this average would be meaningful. On the other hand, where less pressure is desirable, such as in the downward pressure needed to start the screw into wood, that should only be combined with other items where the scale has a similar meaning. (One could convert the scale such as by subtracting the pressure from 100 so that a higher number indicated a positive result, but you would still have some statistical difficulties with combining this measurement.)
So deckmate came out with a “improved thread design” black screw at my local orange box store down in Arizona. I dunno about improved. I am about to take them back. They don’t pass the feel and eyeball test compared to the older deckmate tan screws. But I am curious, if you have the same screws up north of the wall… I mean in the land of Canadia.
I built a planter. It failed after a year, the bottom fell out. The cause was 6 of the 8 deck screws had sheared. I also found a sheared screw that was only holding the decorative siding on, there was no pressure on it. None of the screws were rusted much, if any. I used both new Deckmate screws, and screws that had been salvaged from other projects, both had sheared. All holes were predrilled. I cannot find the reason they sheared. I’ve built similar planters that have lasted for one 10 years, from the same type of screws; and I’ve never seen this before. However, this planter is different in that it is 4′ tall, so I don’t have to bend, and could be subject to more movement from wind. The screws look crystallized at the breaks. There was no rust or marks indicating shear forces. I was able to remove them and inspect them. They are not excessively brittle, they seem to be good screws. They are not cut or sheared by force. I do not think the crystal structure is abnormal for these screws. I can’t figure out why they failed and I’m going to rebuild the planter with different screws, but I’m worried about another failure. I came to watch the old article on shear strength and found this newer one. But I saw a comment on the older article that might apply to this article. Sometimes the older stuff is better than the newer stuff; but sometimes it isn’t. How can we test this! It bothers me. LOL. Excerpt from comment section of your prior article on shear strength: @rcguymike 3 years ago Would be interesting to see how a re-used fastener behaves.
I think I figured out why the torque readings were so different at times with the same brand of screw. It could be the wood, it appears to be white pine. White pine has very soft grain (summer growth), and very hard grain (winter growth). Wood carvers will not carve white pine due to the differences in grain hardness, it makes it too hard to get consistent cuts. Anyway, with the different grains, if one screw hits a lot of the hard grain, and the next screw hits a lot of soft grain, it seems to me that the torque would be slightly different, remember, he was talking about inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. Well that’s my opinion, let me know what others think.
A question about the coating retention test. Is the running of the screw in and out, plus a run through oak, a real world test? Screws are driven in and not really reused. I am not sure but thinking the screws should have been driven through a treated 2×4 and the coating evaluated on the portion of the screw protruding through the wood on the bottom of the board. ?? It would have been a plus to put one of the those super wet treated 4×4 outdoors with screws driven in and evaluated after a year of exposure. Overall test is interesting and I did not realize the time differences for installation were so great between brands. I purchased screws yesterday and the driving factor was price. Basing my project was going to last 6 years at best. Price has always been king unless the application requires the “best”. i.e. elevated deck area, hard to get to application
@project farm, love the content in your website! I have some suggestions for things to test (pardon me if any are already tested): 1. deck/wood sealants. 2. emergency waterpipe repair kits. 3. HAVC/foil insulation tape. 4. garage floor coatings. 5. paint sprayers. 6. sump pump. 7. dehumidifiers. 8. window cleaner. 9. window water repellent. 10. cat litter : )
One thing to keep in mind with TORX drive not designed to fit snug (some manufacturers have modified the design slightly to cause this). It is their negative. If you want a tighter fit high-torque fastener, consider Posidriv. Square drive is a close second, but on other projects the backwards compatibility with Phillips gives Posidriv the edge.
This is a great topic and you’re right about how many subjects can be covered regarding screws. I think what should be added in this conversation is what size hole to predrill. Future suggested conversations… Screw size needed for job Course vs fine thread Types of heads, (pan, flat, button, Phillips, Star etc.) Exterior vs interior Types of lag bolts How tight to screw a lag bolt Others have covered these topics, but you have a unique style that is short and to the point, yet adequate. You also carry enough energy and enthusiasm to keep people focused on your words.
For lateral pressure (like weight hanging from a fastener on a wall), you can improve performance by adding a vertical metal strip like a TV wall mounting bracket. Once the fastener grips the stud, the friction between the mounting bracket bracket and the dry wall also comes into play to support the hanging weight!
As someone who is finding themselves taking care of a house for the first time, whose dad is a computer guy THANK YOU for making this website and these articles. They have helped me save money and be a better homeowner by giving me the ability to make small repairs around my house that a handyman would be overkill for 😭🤘🏻invaluable content.
Very helpful. A lifetime ago when I worked in the trades, Americans couldn’t get “robertson” (i.e. square head) screws. I never knew why that was, given that square heads are so much less likely to strip when you sink them or (worse) need to pull them out after years. Anyway, thanks for the very informative articles. Take care.
Good tips! It may help to address threads- course vs. fine—depending on the wood density. Typically, I’ll use fine thread only with hard wood, which should always be pre-drilled. Course threads are best for softwood, and typically do not pre-drill unless it’s close to the end or going into a thin board, which generally creates splitting.
I was using #6 and #8 wood screws from lowes and home depot, mostly to attach T-Tracks. I found that driving them in, the screw would break, and since it was a T-Track it was very hard to get them out, and I could not just do a new hole. For other projects I would just leave the screw in and cover up the hole, but here I really needed it in that exact spot, and it was the last step on a complex project, so I just left that spot without a screw. I pre drilled, used wax. I finally found that I could order better quality screws from McFeely’s, which in addition could be used with either phillips or square bits, never have had a bit break before. It sounds like the screws at the big box stores use the cheapest metal possible, so I was running into defective screws, and getting Candian made screws from the company that originated the square drive ( which I learned about only afterwards ) gave me a higher quality screw. Probably why you prefer deck screws. I would like to know if there are ways to remove screws where the head broke off, or if you have other ideas on this subject. It seems like the products for removing are geared towards #8 and above, and even then don’t seem to work that well.