X-Rite Device Services (XRD) is a software that automatically loads when you launch Wacom Color Manager and handles device communication with the software. This allows us to update device communication features separately from updating the entire software program. XRD offers comprehensive color management solutions, services, and educational tools for various product categories of color management devices.
The All-in-One spectrophotometer is the only device required to profile monitors, projectors, and printers and measure colors. X-Rite’s comprehensive color management solutions, services, and educational tools help achieve color harmony on products and packaging. The X-Rite Color Assistant Setup Driver for Windows 10 (32-bit), (64-bit), and Windows 11 is compatible with Ideapad.
Information Technology Equipment (ITE) refers to the various hardware and software tools used to process data, including computers, servers, storage devices, networking, and other information technology equipment. The ITE Device keyboard is integrated in widely-used Tongfang gaming laptop barebones and is designed for optimal performance. It features a standard QWERTY layout with a total of 802.11 x 1024 x 768 pixel resolution.
XRD provides extensive product support and information, reliable service, and support for any product category of color management devices. Users can manage their devices, track orders, view invoices, and monitor/service support tickets in one convenient place. Official driver packages can help restore ITE Device and other devices, and download the latest drivers for ITE Device on Windows.
📹 “Unknown Devices” And How To Fix Them
It’s common to have mysterious errors in Windows Device Manager, with certain components just showing up as “Unknown …
What device is connected to my computer?
To view all connected devices on Windows 10 and 11, right-click on the Start button and select “Device Manager”. The Device Manager displays all devices connected to your PC, organized into categories. In the “Ports COM and LPT” section, locate your RS232 or RS232-USB device with its port number labeled “(COM)”. For higher Windows security settings, log in as an Administrator. If the “Intel” port is not usable, try identifying the COM port by disconnecting and reconnecting the cable.
If there is no “Ports COM and LPT” section, there may be no COM ports installed. For USB-connected RS232 devices, it may be necessary to install the correct drivers or contact the manufacturer for proper functioning.
What is ITE in computer?
Information Technology Equipment (ITE) is defined as the utilisation of technology for the provision and processing of information, data, and other data.
What is an IoT device on my network?
IoT devices are hardware components that transmit data over the internet or other networks, embedded in various applications such as mobile devices, industrial equipment, and medical devices. They are increasingly using AI and machine learning to enhance systems and processes, such as autonomous driving, industrial smart manufacturing, and home automation. These devices are often small, power- and cost-constrained microcontroller-based systems, and their on-device processing is increasingly demanded due to network bandwidth and consumer expectations around data privacy and user experience.
What is device services used for?
Device Services refer to the provision of mobile devices to customers for use in conjunction with Application Services, including Device Provisioning and/or Device Support. Hospice services are palliative and supportive care provided by an interdisciplinary team to terminally ill patients and their families. Voice Services refer to telecommunications services provided under Part A and specified in the Application.
Hosted Services refer to the hosting, management, and operation of computing hardware, ancillary equipment, software, firmware, data, and related resources for remote electronic access and use by the State and its Authorized Users, including services and facilities related to disaster recovery obligations.
What is an ITE device on my computer?
Information Technology Equipment (ITE) is a group of products that primarily focus on data collection, transfer, storage, or processing. These devices generate periodic pulsed electrical waveforms and are typically low voltage. The European EMC Directive addresses ITE equipment with product family standards EN 55022 for Emissions and EN 55024 for Immunity. These standards address equipment with a primary function of data entry, storage, display, retrieval, transmission, processing, switching, or control, and may be equipped with terminal ports typically operated for information transfer. Examples of ITE may include various types of devices. Typically, ITE equipment is low voltage and below 600V rated supply.
What devices can I disable in Device Manager?
To optimize performance, disable unnecessary devices such as Web cameras, Bluetooth, DVD/CD-ROM drives, Ethernet or Wireless network adapters, and other unneeded ones. Disable a device by right-clicking on its name and selecting Disable device. If needed later, re-enable it. Disable Wireless network adapters for MIDI events or OSC messages from tablets. Disable Ethernet adapters for wireless network connections.
If you have a dedicated external sound card or audio interface, disable the built-in sound device. For optimal performance, use a dedicated audio interface with low latency drivers. Internal sound card drivers are not suitable for real-time audio processing.
How to disable ite device?
On July 30, 2023, navigate to the Knowledge menu, select Settings, System, Remove Programs, select ITE from the list, and click the “Remove” button.
What is the use of ITE?
Data processing in the context of information technology equipment (ITE) involves various operations and techniques to transform raw data into a more meaningful, organized, and useful form. This includes tasks like data entry, cleansing, validation, transformation, and visualization. ITE refers to hardware and software tools like computers, servers, storage devices, networking equipment, and software applications. The goal of data processing is to enable organizations to make better use of their data for informed decisions, improved operations, and business objectives.
ITE can be used in various industries and applications, including finance, healthcare, retail, and manufacturing. Services of ITE include equipment or devices used to process, store, or transmit information.
Do I need device health services on my phone?
Device Health Services is a system app that helps users monitor if an app is consuming too much power, potentially draining battery life. It provides diagnostics to help users optimize their Android devices’ resource usage. This app is pre-installed on most modern Android devices and can be downloaded for further use. It is essential for providing intelligent options for better resource utilization on Android devices.
How do I remove the device services app?
In order to uninstall an application that has device administrator privileges enabled, it is necessary to navigate to the “Settings” menu and select the account in question. Subsequently, the search function should be utilised in order to locate the applications designated as “Device admin apps,” after which the account in question can be selected for uninstallation. In the event that the application continues to generate an error message, it is possible to either manually uninstall it or utilise a programmable solution.
How can I turn off device control?
In order to resolve the issue, it is necessary to navigate to the settings, search for the option entitled “device control,” and then select the option to “show smart devices.” Disabling this feature should resolve the issue.
📹 Unspecified device – SOLVED – WINDOWS 10
If your device is configured with Connected Standby or the OEM has otherwise blocked the access to the USB settings in power plan, there is a freeware tool called “PowerSettingsExplorer” which lets you dig in much deeper. If you don’t want to do that, you can also futz around with powercfg /qh and find the setting there, then set it via command line.
My own TLDR: For modern builds of Windows 10 and 11 if you have unknown devices then either you #1 have no internet, #2 have something blocking the install, or #3 some hardware which is really old and the vendor never bothered to release it or fix it so it works. Back in the days of Windows 95-XP there were many devices that required a very specific install procedure. Often the user had to manually dig through sub folders so that Window’s “automatic” driver search found the driver. That was because the search didn’t actually search, you had to tell it exactly where the driver was down to the folder with the .inf file for your very specific version of the device. This fake search feature was an absolute lie on Microsoft’s part that caused so so so many tech support frustrations for me and no doubt the rest of the world.
I’m a big fan of SDI (Snappy Driver Installer) an open source project that is designed specifically for finding the latest drivers and is especially good at finding drivers for old or rare stuff that might not have an official download anymore. It is also a great tool to change to a different version of a driver if you think that might be the issue.
It can also be a faulty usb cable. I bought a usb microphone a couple of years ago, it was cheap as it had previously been returned, showed up as a unknown usb mic from the start, but worked fine otherwise. It then stopped working and I borrowed another usb mic from a friend and used the cable from the faulty mic, the replacement then acted like the other one had when I got it. Bought a new usb-a to usb-b cable, plugged in the original mic and wouldn’t you know it, everything worked as intended. I’m pretty sure this is a fairly uncommon error, but thought it was worth mentioning.
Sometimes when a device isn’t working properly, you don’t actually need to uninstall the whole thing and reboot the PC, you can actually just disable and enable the device in Device Manager. Works most of the time especially when you are using some peripheral and it just stops working out of nowhere.
Stepping through every item in the Device Manager and checking each for a driver update is tedious. But, in rare occasions, I have had it find a driver update for a device that did NOT have the yellow exclamation point. In at least one of those rare occasions, it helped with the issue I was having. There’s probably a better way to diagnose things, but if you have the patience for it, there might be times when it could help.
There can also be weird USB hubs, which can not take certain things, but are fine with memory sticks, for example. The USB hub of my monitor is that way. There are also unpowered hubs and everything connected there pulls their power from the one USB port the hub is connected to, which can overload it. Kinda like with powerstrips and space heaters. Those hubs sometimes have a socket for a power supply.
1:43 Note that Linus explicitly says “the manufacturer’s website”. Definitely pay attention to where you download a supposed driver from. There are plenty of malicious sites that try to trick you into downloading malware this way. I’m certain almost everyone who regularly watches LTT has seen such a scam site by now, but I think it still bears repeating for those who haven’t yet.
They forgot to mention that windows often installs older drivers from its own libraries. And these drivers don’t always have the correct release date on them. Which can lead to the hilarious situation that windows keeps overwriting your manually installed working and up to date driver with a 10 year old driver, that was ported over from windows 7. Because it was dated last year, so it must be more up to date and thus better than a driver from the manufacturer manually installed by the user 🫤 And the only way to block this is to revoke the systems write access on the driver file(s).
Another problem is when a piece of Windows 7 compatible hardware won’t update to Windows 10; as the manufacturer, such as HP, won’t provide an updated hardware driver for Windows 10. It’s a shame HP went that way. Back in the days when David Packard (the “P” in H-P) was still running things, it was remarkable how compatible the hardware was with the intro of new operating systems, such as with the original inkjet printer from 1988. That printer started off with DOS; then with Windows 3.1; then with Windows 95; and was still functioning with Windows 98 when I gave it away. Going from DOS to Windows 98 was a HUGE jump with operating systems for that H-P inkjet printer; and it still functioned. Over the past decade, good luck getting a piece of Windows 7 hardware to work with Windows 10.
Other possibilities are older devices that can’t run on your os, totally unrecognisable devices (like my old usb bitcoin miners), misidentification (or malformed id’s) for the device, or even out of date (or not installed) motherboard or controller drivers. Of course trying the device on another machine to see if it’s the device or you pc is another option as is testing it with a live linux distribution on your own machine to see if it works.
You said to go to the manufacturer’s site after finding out what the hardware ID matches to, but you just kind of brushed over it. There really should have been a sentence or two talking about the dangers of getting drivers from unknown sources, because there are tons of sites with malware-filled drivers of all kinds. Probably 90% of the first page of search results when you put in a hardware ID will be sites you shouldn’t touch with a 20 foot pole.
Had someone bring me a GPU that was crashing in games. He thought the it was borked in the middle of the GPUpocalypse. The GPU was actually fine, and when he brought me the system, the GPU drivers weren’t installed, or they had become corrupted… plus, the chipset drivers weren’t installed either. Had he just looked in the device manager, it would have saved him $60. Granted, I cleaned up the system and made everything look nice and new while I was at it.
Updating the BIOS can also sometimes fix weird stuck boot issues, where the BIOS doesn’t (or occasionally doesn’t) know what to do with some USB devices, and gets stuck at a black screen. Remove all USB devices and hard reboot to test this. (Note: This is a different issue than DDR5 long RAM training time we have now.) This has happened to me with UPSes that use USB for monitoring, and a friend who has various USB devices plugged in all the time.
im running a 2015 build with an asus z97. i’ve always got those caution symbols in device manager for unknown device, and the fix was always to download the chipset and intel management engine updates from the asus software site. surprised windows never had these as it was a popular mobo. seemingly everything has always worked even without downloading that though so idk.
Disabling USB Selective Suspend is more of a solution if your device sometimes disconnects and reconnects without apparent reason, usually it doesn’t get in the way of advertising device ID and/or drivers in case of plug and play hardware. The system can choose to “shut off” a device when it feels like it, but Windows NORMALLY won’t do so unless the initial device solicitation is done.
For me it was built in fingerprint sensor in my laptop. I recently did first reinstall on the laptop (not my first windows installation overall thought) and everything else was recognized automatically except for that sensor. For whatever reason it just gave me error 10 ( device cannot be started) error. I did even copy paste the hardware id and just found the same but newer drivers that Windows update gave me. For whatever reason HWID says that it is Synaptics WBDI fingerprint reader. But only way to get it working was to install Kensington fingerprint key driver. Windows did warn me that “this device might not work with this driver” but after clicking “install anyway” it has been working just fine. Weirdly enough even pc specialist’s website where i bought this Clevo laptop, they also host that Synaptics driver that correspond with the HWID but doesn’t work at all.
Take a USB plug, connect the 5V and D+ to a 1.5k resistor, and connect the D+ and ground to a 3.3V Zener diode. That’s enough for it to be identified as an unknown device in Windows. The actual CPU of whatever you’re plugging in can be completely dead and it will still make that “USB device inserted” sound.
for reinstalling the windows drivers I believe you can also click something like rescan for devices. And i find things like turning usb selective suspend off a basic requirement as if you run your pc for long it almost always messes something up. Oldest working pc hardware “that iv tested” i have is a steering wheel controller that i need to install a decade old version of logitech’s software to use. So you might be able get a number of peripherals working with a similar tactic as that software version is just the last with compatibility. To give an idea of the age I believe the box mentions compatibility with the original XBOX.
After a new ssd and a fresh install of windows 10 on an HP laptop the keyboard characters weren’t all correct. I downloaded the additional windows driver updates and after many restarts I saw the keyboard was installed but still not working properly. I then changed the keyboard layout to querty and set the language to American US on all the keyboard settings and that solved my issues. 😊
Sometimes, as weird as it sounds, it’s also the motherboard’s fault. For whatever reason, some motherboards have reliable ports and unreliable ones, independent to firmware. Some ports will run flawlessly forever, others keep reconnecting and disconnecting the attached device constantly, and it’s so annoying. I always need to made sure not use those ports, at least for something that is supposed to be used for longer than 30 seconds. I should look into getting USB dummy sticks, just to have the port occupied with something, that doesn’t actually do anything.
I had an issue with my Bluetooth Xbox controller disconnecting from my PC randomly and refusing to reconnect. I tried everything to fix the issue, but in the end, I had to resort to taking it to MicroCenter and found that it was bad (or outdated) digital certificates. Once I installed the latest certificate, it started working fine and still does to this day.
I had a similar issue when I upgraded my mobo, I got the x570-e and the wifi and Bluetooth drivers didn’t work at all, there were no other drivers related to it however I had a software related to my usb wifi stick I use to use and uninstalling it fixed it, had to get in contact with asus and they suggested everything mentioned and it took me an extra 2 months to figure out what was going on
My computer has trouble installing some drivers so I use the free version of Driver Easy. I just occasionally go into it and do a scan and it will tell me what drivers need an update and then I can manually download and install the updates to said drivers. There is an automatic one but it is part of the paid version.
Recently i had to unpack a driver to get the device to be installed by win10. It was a win7 driver but refused to run on win10. Unpacking the exe driver file i obtained the files needed to install on windows 10. Sometimes exe installer don’t work on the newer os but the files they contain do work on them. Just tthe manufacturer in question doesn’t feel the need to update the installer.
That’s no possibility for me, because I had to disable driver instalations through Windows Update. And that’s because Windows otherwise would kill my graphic drivers for my two graphics cards configuration. And before someone asks, I need two graphic cards because my main GPU doesn’t support my three displays plus one TV and all external graphic devices hadn’t worked.
If these steps are not working maybe because the drivers are not compatible with your OS(Operaating system), For example if you have a windows 10 laptop preinstalled and you want to downgrade to 8.1, 7 or etc. And when you do that the network adaptor, usb port driver’s are not working. To fix that you must use SDI to fix it and if some drivers or not working then the easiest option is to upgrade to 10.
I’ve been living with the weirdest USB driver issue on Windows 10. 1. When I connect any USB device or USB storage or even a Wireless Keyboard USB connector, it is not recognised, showing a yellow warning on the device. 2. The only workaround I found is to uninstall it from Device Manager, then click on Search for New Hardware to refresh the list. 3. The irony is that, this will have that device working until I restart Windows! On Bios the devices work perfectly, I can even use my wireless keyboard without any problems (Plug-and-Play), but once I enter Windows it goes to Yellow warning ⚠️. 4. Every time I restart I need to manually stop the Windows Audiopoint Service and start it manually, and start the WLAN Auto Configuration service. Have you ever seen that? How do you think it can be solved?
Sometimes it seems Windows update breaks a driver. I had it happen to my computer when Bluetooth stopped working. At first I thought I might have disabled it but windows claimed there were no BT controller, so no go. In the device list there were exactly one unknown device. When I tried uninstalling the driver it would just pop back as unknown device again. Checking the hardware id if came back as 0000x or something just as exiting. Going to the manufacturer I downloaded all drivers for WiFi and BT as it was the same controller from what I remember. Reinstalling all drivers didn’t help anything. Eventually I just gave up, it’s not like I use BT all that often. Well surprise surprise as a week or so later there was a Windows update, and just for fun I checked the device list before and after the update. the unknown device was gone and instead there were the BT controller. So, occasionally MS can break things like this. Now my background is actually in IT as a technician, so I know my way around windows drivers and troubleshooting them as I’ve been doing it since the first version of MS Windows was released for DOS. And yet I could not get that darned BT controller to load it’s driver no matter what tricks I tried. And I knew I had it working just months before. The point is that sometimes no matter what you do it might not work, and that even if the hardware is perfectly fine. The one thing I didn’t try though was installing a fresh windows or rolling back all updates several months.
Funny thing, but you can load an old drivers for your ancient software even if it’s officially isn’t supported. Any Vista drivers work fine in W7, W8.1, W10, etc. I have a very old Canon scanner, still chugging along at the office. I used to work on XP SP3, but when that ancient PC upgraded to Win10 (thanks for the printer spooler thing, Microsoft!), I found out while XP/Vista drivers did work in W10, the scanning program itself was not. I believe it’s used IE6 as runtime, or something. The solution? Cannon got a new and fancy app in Windows Store, and accepted used the old XP/Vista driver without any issues. I believe, even the scan warmup sequence is faster now!
I just had this not too long ago, it turns out that my Windows driver manager was corrupted and the only way to fix it is to either reinstall Windows or Backup Restore. Hope this helps those who gets an error code of 53 or Windows is still configuring the device error. There’s unfortunately no way around that issue unless you dig deep enough to find the corrupted sub system and replace it with a copy of a freshly installed Windows’ version. Which I didn’t have at that time nor did I have the time to investigate. Hope this helps someone.
Nobody ever talks about easily identifying these devices. USB devices might show up half a dozen times and there might be twenty of em in device manager. I had/have a problem Razer mouse that I still can’t identify without starting from scratch. Mice, keyboards, external storage, iPhone, etc etc all have to be removed. Then you uninstall one, reboot, it reinstalls, issue still present, uninstall another one just to magically whose the same dang device again because they’re not labeled and in the same order they were before.
Had a situation not too long ago with a laptop where Windows downloaded a wrong driver for some chipset bus thing, that was causing audio related devices to go ‘Unknown Device’ status. Spent hours researching the problem, and Realtek drivers are a complete mess to browse. It was super confusing becasue the wrong driver was for a chipset thing, not the actual sound devices, so I spent hours researching, until I just tried to revert the driver on that chipset bus definition, all sound devices came back to life after that. Not sure if it was a bug with some Intel chipsets that define additional devices like sound chips and such, it was as if the chipset driver wasn’t defining the other devices properly or something. And that happened after a Windows update, which nowdays, can’t be turned off on home editions. The machine was working fine before Windows decided to play dumb.
After installing a new asus z690 (in my case) motherboard, you get 4 unknown pcie devices and one unknown controller. Installing intel chipset driver resolves all but unknown controller device. It looks like it needs intel raid storage driver which is at Asus website. BUT, a search reveals this should be installed before the O/S. Copilot states that you can install driver after but there is a chance it will destroy the O/S. Is it safe to install this with O/S installed already???
Does anyone know how to install Raid Drivers? I’ve installed a intel rapid storage technology driver from my motherboards site but my machine still isn’t reading my drives properly. I can see them listed as separate items disk volume but I can access them while looking through File Explorer. Is it a BIOS thing? Is it a driver thing? It’s not my drives, they work fine on my other machine.
Could you guys look into how razer mouses can die when updating to windows 10 or to 11. I had a razer Naga mouse that was barely a year old. It worked perfectly until I updated to 10. Then it died. Apparently 10 could kill their mouses. I read it in a forums. But razer refuses to acknowledge the problem.
Windows identifies my Logitech wireless mouse but not the drivers, although the mouse works just fine. I found that if I install the downloadable software for the mouse Windows recognizes it now and no longer shows a problem with the driver. I can just leave it and all is well or I can install the software and correct “the problem”. Either way works for me.
Someone send this to the head of Subway. For some reason in the past couple of years I’ve gone into a restaurant and the super extra loud “USB Device Connect/Disconnect” sound has been perpetually playing. Every. Five. Seconds. Never mind the fact it ticks me off (read: misophonia) and is perplexing, but it must be hell on the employees to hear those sounds all day every day. It seems to affect all checkout computers at every location in my area. Strange they even have it connected to speakers somewhere. Why bother? The computer’s function is to act as a cash register, not binge watch articles… right?
Dear Linus, I hope this message finds you well. I’m reaching out to you today to request your assistance. I wanted to start by saying how much I appreciate the valuable content you create where you help people solve their computer-related issues. Your expertise has been a tremendous resource for me over the years. I am writing to you with a question. Would it be possible for you to gift me a new gaming PC? Currently, I am using a PC that is nearly a decade old and has become very unstable. It tends to freeze frequently, and I often have to restart it multiple times. Additionally, I replaced the graphics card several years ago when it stopped working correctly. I am not in a position to purchase a new gaming PC myself, and it would be a dream come true to be able to play the latest games without having to worry about my current PC’s limitations. Thank you for taking the time to read my message, and I hope to hear from you soon.
I moved my win8 laptop to win10 and had an SSD installed in place of the broken HDD. My mousepad, keyboard and SD card reader can stop working at any time and I tried everything to fix it. So now I had to tape a keyboard and have a mouse permenently connected to one of the usb ports (leaving only one left). I think I’m gonna be the shame of my university next year.
– Windows update gives you all the drivers. WRONG. You need to pay $2300 (or more) per device (not sure if it is permenant or not) for the driver. Some companies just never bothered to upload them. – Search for the longest item in the hardware IDs. WRONG. All you need to search is the VID and PID part. In the Hardware IDs part you’ll see there are several IDs, choose the shortest one with “VID_XXXX&PID_XXXX”, copy it out, then search for the quoted string above only. NEVER search for the longest line as it contains toooo many Windows Setup API argunents, and may have very little results. Also, the identified VID and PID MAY NOT be accurate at all – some devices may re-enumerate their HWID after proper driver is installed. If the search for the device on Google returned 0 results, you probably want to try to only search with “VID_XXXX&PID_XXX” (don’t put in the last character). It may give you a surprise. – Also, IF your device is wire-connected to your computer (usually USB) and get an unknown device or other error, try replace the cable. Sometimes it’s just a bad cable.
Guys guys guys guys guyss it worked but not in the these article but my tech guy told me and IT WORKEDDD !!!!!!! ONLY FOR LAPTOP (MINE ASUS TUF F15) 1 JUST CLOSE ALL TABS 2 HOLD THE POWER BUTTON TO SHUT DOWN YOUR LAPTOP FOR 10 SEC ATLEAST 3 Disconnect your charging cable 4 wait for 30secs and just on it ( without using charging cable ) Thanke me later ❤️
I have a 10TB western digital ex-hard drive that keeps turning off after 10 mins and takes over 30 seconds to start up again each time – I’ve turned off all power savings and disabled USB suspend but it still keeps turning off after 10 mins – So when saving anything every 20/30 minutes and waiting for it to start up each time is really annoying
Similar annoyances when getting my old G27 Wheel working with Win 11 when I decided ah you know what be fun, I’ll dig out that wheel that even works with the PS3… Eventually resorting to using drivers windows 11 didn’t like an then loosing a “security” feature just for thinking “Ah you know what will be fun”. Not fun at all… Then have to remove the drivers to stop being reminded I now don’t have a “Security” feature using CMD 😅. With at the end thinking this isn’t even my main PC, does it even have to go online? Should I just use windows 7…..10 🤔
“You might just be plumb outta luck and… it’s time for an upgrade.” BISH Y U LYIN’?! I’d still be on Win7 if the SSD didn’t commit self-no-longer-exist! Literally anything I tried with that thing worked, despite “requiring” Win8/10/11. Don’t you dare tell me an upgrade is necessary. That’s pure bull honky.
What happens when you get the Hardware ID USB\\DEVICE_DESCRIPTOR_FAILURE? I’ve got a usb device that continues to disconnect and reconnect and it continues to bother me with the stupid audio ping. I’ve attempted to do everything from uninstalling the device/port/hub and editing settings in the registry. Any advice?
No new drivers. That’s how I lost my $150 discreet sound interface. It just don’t have drivers for W11, and those for W8-10 it has don’t really work – the hack is to force WinXP drivers to install by unpacking the W8-10 installer and replacing files with older versions – and they totally do not work on W11. Due to these problems, the interface is not even valuable to sell, despite its good sound characteristics. Sigh.
Windows i a bi… when it comes to update drivers. I have evrything turned off but sometimes it just says idk i just upgrade this driver couse freak you. Since i have old USB-COM adapter i is detecting it as “This is NOT original device!”, so i have to keep old drivers from XP era for it to work but this mother freaker (win 10) just randomly updates it either way like once in a year…
hi there,, my mouse moves on its own erratically mostly going to the top left corner of my screen sometimes opening files or doing unwanted commands and i keep playing around to bring it back where i want and fight with it, then it stops doing that for a few mins then does it again it has been happening more frequently and getting worst, i tried everything from uninstalling and updating drivers and playing with mouse settings etc it seems like every article thinks its a mouse problem but could be something else, done full pc scans twice and nothing showed up so idk what to do anymore maybe im looking for the wrong titled vids to fix this perhaps its not “wandering mouse” but something else im not sure how to explain it in order to search for the problem can you pls help?
Unfortunately while you did provide quite a lot of good ideas or good tips, you also forgot about the availability of downgrading Windows or switching to Linux, downgrading Windows allows you to guarantee compatibility withholder hardware but at the expense of the latest updates for Windows, and at the expense of potential antivirus solutions, I only recommend this if you have a 32-bit computer that ran Windows Vista or before or if you absolutely cannot get Linux running on a 64-bit system, if your graphics hardware is in article and it’s originally ran Windows Vista then yes you need to go back to Windows regardless, Vista or before hardware does not play well with Linux especially if you had Nvidia graphics. Mostly due to the driver no longer being supported in repositories there is making it a pain to install, in those cases I recommend installing XP or Windows 2000, installing legacy update, and then installing kernel patches to make your system more secure but still as with any old system well you may not be able to get viruses on it anymore due to security by obscurity, you definitely do not want to keep it connected to the internet as the internet has become more malicious as days have gone by you can in theory get away with installing things via USB or by discs if you need to install things due to older softwares having the ability to do so.
weird this isn’t in there – to start down the road of getting more information on what the device is, right click properties, detauls, property>Hardware IDs and copy the string, like this one from y WLAN adapter: USB\\VID_0BDA&PID_8179&REV_0000 Your VID is your vendor ID, which can identify the maker of the device. PID is product identification, sort of like a model number. Googling these or literally just that whole string can often point you in the right direction. If you are doing this and not an IT professional, making a system restore point and knowing how to restore can be useful when you are slapping in drivers. be extremely careful where you download from as there is an entire industry of dickheads spinning up websites with heavy SEO to get you to download stupid driver apps or malware.
yet another things you don’t have to wory aobut on apple computers or even with linux runing costum made mechines. most peaole realise there not that much of a diffrence bettwen mac os x and costuom linux mehcines ruing with vm. well other then the apple piscal secitry fermwre and exrta apple copyright pantet protacted parts of the porgaeming ocde apple just put on top of unix linix sence like 2008 when they arted useing intel cpus. mac os x and ios also does alowd thrid party drivers when needed but compnty will be dirnfev depeing on age and other factors.
Linus, sigh. Another good, short article ruined by >10% of the runtime being an ad for some unrelated thing. As you’ve heard hundreds of times before, you don’t need to have a sponsor for EVERY article. Your company is worth millions, you could give back to the viewers who got you there by not abusing them. But, you don’t care about us, and I don’t like that, so thumbs down.
For me I’m trying to connect my iPhone 13 Pro Max to my PC via USB cable and it keeps telling me USB device not recognized. I’ve tried multiple things on YouTube and still no go. At this point I’ve just about had it up to here with these fucking iPhones and they’re complicated ridiculous as programs and software you would think that by now they would have made their phones and shit simple and easy like Samsung but again it’s Apple. Going to stick with my Samsung s24 Ultra and sell this piece of shit
So much easier than just update your … No, you just hate Linux, sorry to say… Windows is so much easier! Just do this obvious things you tell people… Sorry, but this is just silly now… “Plum out of luck, or brain? How is this any different from NO I’M NOT GOING TO UPDATE ANYTHING when you install anything Linux, and now you tell people to jump through hoops to get Windows working? Where’s that article of installing Windows, without any knowledge? I can do it for you! But you don’t like that, do you…. I dare you! I bite my thumb at you!
Everything is very nice and clear, but what if instead the printer after a reset (ricoh SP 211) is no longer recognized at all and by Unknown Device SP 21NW? Following the procedure obviously gives no results, not even reinstalling the driver. I think the printer should be thrown away, if a device no longer communicates with the OS no program or solution will work. Thanks for sharing, God bless you.