The Oatey Mystic Rainwater Collection System is a unique and efficient solution for reducing water waste. It features a built-in reservoir that channels rainwater flow from the sides of the downspout while allowing debris to go down the center, resulting in more collected rainwater without the need for ganging five rain barrels. The system is easy to install and fits on a standard 2 in. x 3 in. residential downspout, with step-by-step instructions and a 4 ft. high flow hose to connect the diverter to the collection container. The Mystic is designed to divert a maximum amount of rainwater through the hose and into a collection container. An automatic downspout diverter routes water from your home’s gutter system into your rain barrel, making it an easy and cost-saving way to collect rainwater. The Rain Barrel Downspout Diverter Kit is included for easy installation, connecting your downspout drain pipe to your rain barrel. This system is a great way to reduce water waste and save on water costs.
📹 Easy Rainwater Collection – Oatey Mystic
This video demonstrates how to install a downspout diverter for rainwater collection. The process is simple and involves cutting the downspout, attaching the diverter, and connecting a hose to a barrel. The video also discusses the legal requirements for rainwater collection in Utah.
📹 Installing Rain Barrel Diverter from Fiskars and Oatey Mystic
This video shows how to install a rain barrel diverter system. The homeowner is using a Fiskars and Oatey Mystic system to collect rainwater from their gutters and direct it to a rain barrel. The video also shows how to fix a leaking rain barrel and how to connect a second rain barrel to the system.
If you install the diverter lower, level with just below the top of the waterline of the barrel, you can still have a screened vent on top. It won’t overflow that way, I think I’m gonna go that route. I don’t know if it’s better to have it vented or sealed. It might matter if it gets too hot. I dunno. I just got 3 blue barrels today and I’m planning out my system now. Thanks
To fill holes, repair metal parts, or even fabricate metal parts ( think broken bib valve knob), I use a product out of Allentown pa called PC-7 (PC-11 for marine, fuel tank repair). It was developed to glue hwy reflectors on roadways. If you don’t know about PC-7, you aren’t able to fix anything. Comes as a 2 part epoxy in film canister size to gallon pails, mebbe bigger. I’ve glued rocks to bridge abutments to make urban guerilla climbing walls, repaired teeth on a huge brass Tiller gear on a 1935 36′ wooden sailboat, restored a rusted rollbar (1/2″ x 3″ coating and clamped beer can sleeve as a form. It’s the bomb. Great for affixing towel racks to bath tile without drilling. 24 hours and the putty becomes a metal epoxy. I live by this stuff. PC 7 (grey) PC-11 white
I have watched, it seems like millions, of the rain barrel making and diverter articles. You, Doc at Home take the cake in all areas. After perusal you I didn’t care about the whole making a barrel catch my rain stupid stuff. I had a great laugh and put this problem to rest. If it does rain on my garden, well that’s great, if it doesn’t I guess I will have raisins instead of grapes.
I have recently purchased a rain barrel and diverter. I have a question about the installation though. All of the tutorials I have found online install the diverter on the same height as the rainbarrel’s entrance hole (= water level). I understand that you should not install it beneath the water level of the barrel., as that will prevent it from filling up properly. In my case I would like to install the diverter about 70 cm higher up on the pipe than the entrance of the barrel. Logic tells me it might still work, but I haven’t tried and haven’t found any examples of it being done that way. I would love to hear your input!