Akko, founded in 2016, focuses on creating lifestyle gaming peripherals that emphasize design and innovation. The brand’s gaming mice are often equipped with high-quality stuffing and stitched to perfection, making them an essential part of the gaming experience. Akko’s mascot, Gudetama, adds value to the brand’s products, and the Akko 3084 is a 75-form factor wireless mechanical keyboard with 84 total keys in a non-standard ANSI layout. The Akko 5108S hotswap keyboard features the famous Gudetama character.
Akko has launched its first all POM switches in 2022/08. The company’s mascot, Akko, is perfect for desktop decoration and is stuffed with high-quality stuffing. The company designs professional-level gaming mechanical keyboards that embody interests, attitudes, and cultural elements into computer keyboards. The Akko cat theme mouse features an adorable cat-shaped design, and the gaming mouse comes with a USB receiver stored in the mouse.
Akko is the leading importer of Akko mechanical keyboards in South Africa, dedicated to enhancing the computing experience with top-of-the-line peripherals. The brand offers a wide range of keyboards, from compact to high-performance models, ensuring a high-quality and accessible choice for the global mechanical keyboard industry.
📹 I Tried The New Akko Keyboard… (And You Should Too)
#MechanicalKeyboard #akko #monsgeek #keyboard #CheapestMechanicalKeyboard #BudgetKeyboard #3ildcat #switchreview …
Are Akko keyboards reliable?
Akko keyboards are known for their exceptional build quality, durability, and performance, offering a wide range of keyboards with advanced features like wireless connectivity and customizable backlighting. These keyboards are popular among gamers, writers, and programmers for precise and responsive typing experiences. Ajazz keyboards are known for their affordability and impressive feature sets, offering mechanical and membrane options with advanced features like macro functions and customizable backlighting. Monsgeek keyboards are designed with ergonomics and comfort in mind, offering split and curved designs to reduce fatigue and discomfort during extended typing sessions.
Where does Akko ship from?
Akkogear. eu primarily ships products from China and can ship orders to most EU countries, except for outlying islands and overseas territories. The company offers shipping to Italy, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Ireland, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, the United Kingdom, Netherlands, Bulgaria, Croatia, Luxembourg, Austria, Greece, Latvia, Czechia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Estonia, Lithuania, Romania, Malta, Australia, Japan, New Zealand, Switzerland, Ireland, Armenia, Colombia, Kuwait, South Georgia, South Sandwich Islands, Laos, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, and Vietnam.
Does Andrew have a crush on Akko?
In an interview with Yoshinari, Naoko Tsutsumi, and Shūhei Handa, it was revealed that Akko and Andrew were supposed to be together, but Yoshinari disliked this as it would have meant Akko was working for Andrew’s sake. Instead, they view their relationship as a playful guy-guy relationship, which Handa agrees with. Ironically, their English voice actors, Lucien Dodge (Andrew) and Erica Mendez (Akko), are in a real-life relationship.
What country is Akko in?
Akko, a city in Israel, has a rich history shaped by various historical events, including Romans, Ottomans, Crusaders, Mamelukes, Byzantines, and British. Today, it is home to a diverse population of Jews, Christians, and Muslims. The Old City of Akko is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest ports in the world, and is also home to part of the Bahai World Center. Akko is also home to Haifa, another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The city is known for its preserved ruins of the Crusader town, including citadels, mosques, khans, and baths built on the ruins of the Crusader structures. Akko has undergone extensive excavation and conservation over the past decade, with large-scale renovations and rebuilding works taking place since its UNESCO recognition in 2001.
Who does Akko have a crush on?
Andrew Hanbridge, a character in the series, initially takes interest in Akko after their encounter with the Arcas and their trip to the fountain. Akko dislikes Andrew’s constant criticism of magic’s ineffectiveness in the modern world. However, after a conversation on the fountain, Andrew changes his opinion and allows Akko to stand up for his ideals.
In “Bee Commotion”, Akko becomes embarassed when Andrew swoons over her due to Cupid Bee’s influence. Akko encourages Andrew to be a witch and bring joy to everyone, rather than following Chariot’s footsteps.
Akko cares for Luna Nova Faery Custodians and sees them as equal to witches. She joins them in their fight against Diana, who is unaware of their plight. At night, they brew soup for Akko, Sucy, and Lotte, showing their appreciation for her help.
After witnessing a friend’s injury, Luna Nova Faery Custodians attack teachers and students, but spare Akko and her roommates, knowing they won’t betray them.
Why does Diana hate Akko?
Diana, a witch, is not bullied by her peers Hannah and Barbara due to her mundane background. Instead, she is frustrated by Akko’s attitude towards magic, which she views as naive and foolish. Diana believes that magic requires discipline and can only be acquired through assiduous research and tradition accumulation. Akko, on the other hand, believes magic comes from the heart and can be acquired through determination and steadfast belief in oneself. Diana’s magic is consistently exemplary, while Akko’s is inconsistent and often sloppy.
Diana gains respect for Akko’s “stubbornness” through her studies of the Grand Triskellion and the Shiny Rod. She initially wanted to acquire the power to help people and restore magic, but learned that only the person chosen by the Shiny Rod can awaken the words and use this power. Diana reveals this to Akko in Episode 19 and explains that Akko is the chosen one.
Despite her sadness, jealousy, and frustration, Diana respects Akko and defends her from the mocking of her family. She takes the ultra-rare Shiny Chariot Card outside her room to prevent Akko from discovering it. After Akko inspires her to become the Cavendish head of the household and aids her in the finishing ascension ritual, their friendship improves greatly, and Diana begins to consider Akko as the only true friend she ever had.
What is the Akko controversy?
The Ako Controversy was a political controversy in the early Heian period of Japanese history. Emperor Uda issued an imperial edict assigning Fujiwara no Mototsune as Kanpaku (Chief Imperial Advisor) in 887 AD. However, Emperor Uda and Tachibana no Hiromi later equated “Kanpaku” with “Ako”, a title without official duties, which would dismiss Mototsune from the government. This triggered the Ako Controversy. In April 888 AD, Emperor Uda ordered experts to verify that Ako meant not performing any official duties, but they failed due to the Fujiwara house’s influence.
In June, the Emperor decided to cancel the edicts, which was considered the “first real setback of his career”. The controversy ended with Mototsune being made kanpaku and the term “Ako” removed from the imperial edict.
Is Akko a Japanese brand?
Akko, founded in Shenzhen, China in 2016, focuses on creating lifestyle gaming peripherals with a focus on design and innovation. The founders aim to diversify the industry by incorporating pop-cultural imagery, color trends, interests, and attitudes. Akko offers a wide range of custom mechanical keyboards and parts, with a robust supply chain and diverse selection of layouts. The company offers a variety of keyboard sizes, including 108-Key, 98-Key, 100-Key, 87-Key, 84-Key, 68-Key, Alice, and 61-Key arrangements.
Akko is also the world’s leading keycaps manufacturer, producing PBT Dye-Sublimation and Double-Shot keycaps. The company offers keycaps with various profiles, such as OEM, Cherry, OSA, ASA, and ASA-Low, ensuring unique typing experiences for different users and ensuring comfortable keycaps that fit.
Are monsgeek and Akko the same?
Akko’s sister brand, a company dedicated to providing keyboards and peripherals at the enthusiast level, is committed to providing extreme value to the peripherals market. The company has a particular focus on the mechanical keyboard sector, with a particular emphasis on aluminum keyboards, with the objective of expanding the possibilities for customization.
What race is Akko?
Akko, a first-generation Japanese witch, is the principal protagonist of the anime series Little Witch Academia. Notwithstanding her somnolence during the academic session, she endeavors assiduously at Luna Nova Academy to obtain the competencies requisite for the realization of her ambition to become a Shiny Chariot. Akko’s description can be found in the Chamber of Time Electronic Manual and on the official website of Little Witch Academia. Virtual Reality Broom Racing.
Is Akko owned by Ducky?
Ducky is a brand of consumer electronics owned by Duckychannel International Co., Ltd., a company based in Taiwan. In May 2019, Akko, a business partner of Ducky in China, terminated its partnership. Akko currently offers its own product line, as well as discontinued Akko x Ducky products. It is recommended that vendors refrain from the illicit use of Ducky trademarks.
📹 I Finally Tried Akko Keyboards… (And You Should Too.)
#MechanicalKeyboard #Akko #Keyboard #CheapestMechanicalKeyboard #BudgetKeyboard #3ildcat #switchreview #switches …
My Previous Monsgeek Vid @youtube.com/watch?v=z3cTzbgDosM ⬇Affiliate links to help out the website ⬇ Monsgeek M1 V3: monsgeek.com/product/m1-v3/?ref=HipyoTech Monsgeek M1 V3 HE: monsgeek.com/product/m1w-v3-he-sp-fully-assembled/?ref=HipyoTech Deskmats: kineticlabs.com/desk-mats/?ref=hipyo
Built a monsgeek m1w for my brother for christmas and he loves it! I think clip in stabs are misunderstood. Their flaw is solely if there’s a loose fit on the plate – so if you use the bandaid mod, and the housings of the clip in stabs are held nicely in place, they can end up being amazing. They can also be really smooth because clip ins tend to have little friction due to admittedly “bad” tolerances of the stems. For some reason, if you get rid of the ticking and do bandaid plate mod, they end up being unbelievably good. Just gotta put in the work.
Hipyo, I have a article suggestion. You should build 3 keyboards with your favourite parts. One should be thocky, one marbly and the last could be silent (which you have done recently so you could reuse that) You gotta pick your favourite frames, switches and keycaps (NO YOU CANNOT USE YOUR OWN SET). Anyway, hope you make that vid where you actually show us your skill with no twists
To people thinking about buying this and using Jade Magnetics~ Addressing the compatibility issues with Gateron switches at 8:58, I messaged AKKO and they told me, ” Akko magnetic keyboard is designed to only support downward-facing S-pole magnetic switches”. These would be like the outemu beige pink and latenpow switches. I asked about whether they had plans to make them Gateron compatible and they basically said they had no plans yet because it requires physical modifications to internal components and design to the PCB.
What could be helpful to new people is creating a ranking or webpage of keyboards you’ve reviewed and how they stack up relative to one another. I’m in the market for a 75% board, but don’t know much about brands vs. creating your own. How does Akko stack up against Duky – etc. Would be helpful to see an enthusiast make sense out of all the customization of prebuild boards for newer people. Thanks
I just ordered the monsgeek m2, i know ew numpad, but accoutning by day drafter by night so they numpad is essential. First custom keyboard im making! I have a razer black widow.. 2007 at home and a disgusting Logitech wave at work. Excited to build this and thanks Hipyo for getting me into this hobby way more than i intended.
From the outset, I’ve wandered lands both dark and bright, Seeking that one keyboard, my quest both day and night. At last, the Hipyo shines, my beacon in the fray, A perfect blend of features, my doubts it does allay. A price that’s fair, a dongle spare, 75% and gleam, Could this be my holy grail, or merely just a dream? Yet, not all’s perfect—no purple on the m1W V3, The arrow keys too snug, not quite my ideal spree. And farewell to my combo dongle, ports I dearly keep, A sacrifice I’ll bear, though my heart may softly weep. But tell me, does it stand tall with feet that flick and rise? Can I elevate its stance, to better meet my eyes?
It’s interesting to hear you say Akko’s switches are good. I bought my first enthusiast keyboard from them last year (the 50705S at precisely the wrong time, mind) and after a few months had to contact them for replacement switches because they often wouldn’t trigger (CS Wine Whites). Support was really good, to be fair, and they sent me out more replacements than I needed at the time. But my OG switches have been steadily failing, and those replacements are almost gone. It’s fine, I wanted to buy new switches eventually anyway, and overall I’m happy with the company but it has put me off Akko switches probably for good. EDIT: Specified switches
Its interesting. I have the Akko MOD 007B HE and the Kailh Sakura Pink Magnetic Switch – as my husband says I could use it as a murder weapon. It’s beastly heavy and I don’t have the “clacky” sound with this one. its pretty quite with a little bit of a creamy sound, unless I have had my nails done a bit longer then I get a little tappy sounding. I actually wasn’t sure I was going to like a HE board but shockingly loved it. I do run a side legend shine through keycap, with gold metal accent keys and a few pom jelly fully custom accent keys I painted myself. Yea I am an extra but as a graphic designer sorry the “aesthetic” is just as important to me 🤣. It’s gorg on my desk, and I wouldn’t change anything except for maybe getting a pink/lilac cable for aesthetic reasons. That being said I have an epomaker ek98 on my work machine on the other side of my desk that isn’t HE and I love that too its a plastic case and I need the numpad for some keyboard shortcuts. That has otemu lemons in it. Can we tell I like a quiet board.
I bought two of these and sent them back the next day. The good news is that the remaining stock of M1’s is being sold at a substantial discount. I miss the previously provided tape but that’s inconsequential. The side accent is gone, so the board is somewhat blah. To lower the cost, the board is not anodized but instead is powder coated. Powder coating is cheaper and looks it. It also does not stand up to regular use as well. To my ear, the new typing sound is less pleasing. Monsgeek says they have changed the foams inside the case. I assume that is an attempt to offset the cheaper aluminium. I just bought a new M1 (v1) from Monsgeek at a substantial discount, and it (along with my M3) is now a keyboard I use regularly. For the price, the v3 is a solid board. For a Monsgeek board, it is a disappointment.
I’m curious about one thing. Do you sell any of the builds you do? Also, me, as little technical as I am, don’t want to fiddle and build a keyboard, but I really do want to own a custom creamy sounding one, but no idea how to get my hands on it, without building. Knowing myself, it would be a disaster. So if you have some for sale, or do custom orders, hell, even a old one you built that sounds nice, I’m all ears.
I kind of wish there were two or three tiers of keyboards from the same manufacturer, each with varying level of fillers meant to influence sound. But also, I wish manufacturers would understand why the foams were put in to begin with. Choice is great, but if it can be proven that way less money needs to be spent on having the choice of foams to remove, then there should be a choice without them and opportunity to revert the decision for a bit more money and effort.
the gasket thingies at 1:48 are for force break mod. Also, I have the Monsgeek m1 he, the V1. for me personally, it sounds better without the case foams with 3-5 layers of tape mod, also relubed the cream yellows, also replaced the keycaps with akko bow keycaps. I’d describe it as a medium to high pitch thock. like a good mixture of thocc and clack.
I currently own the wooting 2 lekker edition and im on the pre order list for the 80HE. They’ve definitely improved the sound profile of both the board(being gasket mounted now) and upgraded the switches to a v2 now (tho we have yet to hear them in the zinc alloy case). I just think Hall effects have a certain sound signature that you can’t 100% eliminate due to the magnets so ultimately you just have to take the good with the bad. Its a very small bad compared to overwhelming good
Sounds good and for people with a lot of switches and caps already lying around it’s quite inexpensive. For those who don’t though the price is so close to the ND75, Rainy 75, AL75, SK75 etc… it’s a difficult sell as all of those are pretty fantastic boards. Recently picked up a Halo 75 V2 and quite impressed, it’s a little more than the others I listed but sounds great and has probably the most epic gamer RGB ever, lol! I mean it will light up your entire desk all while being pretty thocky and compatible with VIA/QMK.
“WoW Hipyo I can’t believe you show your amazing Keycaps and don’t recommend a budget version…” When it comes to switches I just have no clue… could you make an overview of your preferred ones? Ideally Type (Tactile/ linear, Silent / clacky etc) and different prices? same for Keycaps if you’re feeling insane 😀
Y’know…i like the before. and to my ear (or perhaps to my mind) it sounds less “chattery”. With that said, i appreciate you always placing heavy emphasis on personal preference in these articles 🙂 bye bye mr box! (PS hell yes ISO version, i’m sick of accidentally hitting enter with this ansi bullcrap)
Picked up a set of Morandi switches, and I really like them, but I don’t think they’re a great fit with GMK keycaps as they tend to pair better with a thockier set of PBT keycaps. I paired my GMK Cubed set (one of the only GMK sets I would buy bc I’m a GameCube freak) and the HMX Xinhai linears were a perfect match. Really brings out the clacky sound profile of the GMK caps, which to me sound best when you lean in to that. The Morandis are now in my Gem80 at work so my coworkers don’t murder me, and the GMK/HMX combo is at home on the AK820 Pro (soon to be a ND75!)
Hello. Is there any chance you`ll make a article about budget full size Keyboards you would recommend? Right now i am totally overwhelmed cause of the massive ammount of possibilities. But there seem a lot fewer 104/105/96% Boards then i anticipated. Doesn`t matter if barebone or fully assembled, 2,4 GHz or wired, screen or knob, VIA support is a nice bonus. Or maybe the community has some ideas?
The board sounds rattlely after you took everything out to me. Idk man, to my ears it sounded better with everything in there. To be fair I prefer a more poppy sounding profile and with all the foam in there that was closer to that for me. Still, way too quite for my tastes. All Hall effect switches are a fad. Great for controller sticks, but not that big of a deal for keyboards imo.
Hipyo, I pre-ordered the Wooting 80HE module (barebones with plastic case) for £192.20 ($248.34 USD). I’m being ripped off, aren’t I? This article has made me consider cancelling my order. I’m a big competitive FPS gaming nerd, which is why I’m interested in hall effect switches, input latency and a reliable software experience. But I also hate being ripped off with underwhelming build quality for the money I’m paying. What do?
Hipyo i was thinking of getting a new keyboard and mouse since i had mine since 4 years ago and well… they came in the same box for 20$ so i don’t know whats good and whats bad any recommendations?. And i don’t have a budget well.. if it’s not that expensive that is😭 I was also thinking of buying Logitech mouse and a rk 75% keyboard
This’d be absolutely perfect for me if there’s a purple ISO version like the previous versions, something with more flex than my Idobao ID80 V2 (which I just got T_T – it’s great but the switches are sorta attacking me when released and I’m wondering if that’s the lack of flex) EDIT: Huh, looks like the regular V3 doesn’t have a purple iso on the regular Monsgeek site, but the wireless version has one on the EU site?
I bought way over 20 keyboards. I holee modded, foam modded, etc … all of them but all stabs are annyoing me. I have not found one single keyboard whose stabs do not annoy me! There is always some minor wobble, rattle, pint, clap. I want it perfect, but it does not work. whaaaaa! This stuff is killing me
I just recently got this board and I liked it a lot. The only problem I have with it is that the backspace key sounds very weird compared to the rest of the board, like more rattley and loud. I am not sure what it is and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to fix it. Just for a bit more details, I am using the standard plate-mounted stabilisers. But I am not too sure if the stabilisers are the problem, since I swapped some of the other stabilisers around, and they all sounded fine when they were not on the backspace key. I am wondering if it is a design issue, since I noticed that the key is quite close to the edge with flex cuts and the screw connecting the PCB to the plate.
Please stop calling the Akko switches good. I have, no, had, the yellow linear ones. It took less than 6 months to use up the six included replacement switches because the built-in switches failed one after the other. Good sound and a good click feel are highly subjective and count for nothing if the quality and durability are terrible.
Chatter? You mean, when you press a key it triggers 2 or 3 times at random? Usually key chatter implies electrically noisy switches with insufficient debouncing, causing a random number of activations per keystroke. It makes a keyboard basically unusable sinnnce eeeverryythhingg ccommmes ouuuut lllikke ttthis.
btw, if you guys are building this board. Hipyo built it pretty well, but if you want it to sound better, you can try putting the tape mod directly onto the bottom case underneath the foam. Then, use the teflon pads for a force break mod (stick some of it nera each of the screw holes to reduce metal to metal contact) and reduce the pingyness of the board.
Akko feels extremely underrated to me! It certainly isn’t the best of the best, but everytime I’ve wanted to build a keyboard, it’s always delivered at such a low price especially since it’s available world-wide and relatively cheaper to Asian countries. Big fan of their switches and barebones products and I’ll always recommend it to anyone who wants to build, begin building, request a commission for not to expensive, and more. 🙂
I did a “budget” build for my fiancee for Christmas with a white M1 with the goal of getting a thocky sound. After force-breaking the M1, I think the sound of the case is actually pretty good for a cheap alu board. I didn’t realize that the included extra stab pads were meant to be used as force break material, so I did the traditional 2x double sided/rolled painter’s tape and it worked well.
I got an Akko ISO Layout 3068B Plus on Black Friday and it’s such a good value. Finding a good prebuilt with ISO layout under €100 is not easy. Also, the ISO version of the keyboard uses a more traditional cherry mx profile instead of their typical ASA and the font looks a little bit cleaner too. I got the Black and Gold version with Jelly Purple Tactiles but I also ordered some Akko Silvers(1mm travel linears) which I put on the keys I use in games. Great bang for the buck overall.
What a coincidence, I just finished building a handwired keyboard with Akko coral switches just this week. Now, I’m no expert so take my stupid opinion with a grain of sand, but I’m quite surprised by how good they feel and sound. For literally the cheapest (non-knockoff) keys per dollar that I can buy where I live, they definitely exceeded my expectations.
In my opinion this board seems like a pretty good option and is cheaper than the Q series boards from keychron. I think you can probably make this board sound really good and make it fit your preference if you spent time on it. Idk if it was just me being on too low of a volume, but the sound test at the end sounded good, but a bit quiet. But there definitely are ways to fix that. Like different foam and tape mod should probably work well
This seems like a great mid-range option. More kitty content anytime you have a sanity buffer. I’m currently really liking the Durock Lupine switches. I can finally use my GMMK Pro with my KPrepublic red Japanese root cherry profile keycaps. Before I would always get mistypes, double letters, missed keys, etc. Still feels like I’m typing on concrete so maybe looking at thisnone now.
The M series was my first DIY kit I’ve ever built and I absolutely loved the boards I made (I built the M2 for a friend and they loved it as well along with the M1 for myself). I’d say this is a great entry level/budget friendly kit for people wanting to get into the hobby! There are a few imperfections that need a little love like the stock stabs and board ping, but those can be easily fixed with the holee and force break mod.
Just dove in to my Huntsman V2 this weekend. Lubed every switch, filled the plastic backplate with silicone and re-assembled. What I misjudged was just how much lube the stabilizers needed to stop the pinging sound. Doing this has given me a ton more confidence in diving in to building a kit like this. I appreciate your articles very much, they’ve been really informative and quite entertaining. My son, who’s five, loves it when we watch your articles together and he sees Luna doing her kitty things. ❤️
I disagree with your opinion on stabilizers, I’m curious as to why TX stabilizers weren’t considered instead. Tx stabilizers have always come out perfect for me while all of the durock v2 stabilizers I tried had either persistent ticking issues or needing relubing at a later date. I think the akko stabilzers would be good if you went with a light coat of lube for the housings. I haven’t tried them myself but I’ve heard they’re really good. Tx stabilizers can also get a bit sluggish if you apply a little too much lube, they only need a light coating (compared to durock v2 polycarbonate housings) to help with the housing rattle.
The Brother M1W (M1 with wireless) keyboard, renowned for its affordability, has sparked a significant trend in Vietnam. Its recent addition of wireless functionality, coupled with the option to purchase it below $50 when availing the Fomo promotion in China, has propelled it to the forefront of the market, establishing its dominance over other keyboards in its price range
I just got an IQUNIX OG80 Dark Side RS with Frozen Silents and, my god am I in love with a keyboard again?!? These switches are phenomenal, and shot to the top of my list tied with genuine Topre. They’re so quiet, but still have a crisp pop and buttery thock at the bottom… Just absolutely stupidly nice to type on. And I absolutely love the entire board too, not just the switches. The frosted transparent keycaps let the LEDs shine through without issue. The board layout and angle feel great and completely wiped away my concerns of spending so much on a board without feet. It’s seriously as nice to LOOK AT as it is to type on.
I just got the 5057S from Akko for 30$ and I think when it comes to budget boards they seem really good for what it costs. And the VIA support is really great, even on the cheaper boards from them. It’s built similarily to the Monsgeek but plastic instead of aluminum. Definitely a better recommendation if you’re just starting out like I did.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE get a Wooting 60HE and make a article of you modding the PCB and switches into a different case with some premium key caps. I know being stuck using the Lekker switches is a deal breaker for a lot of custom keyboard people, but as a gamer I really want to see a Wooting 60HE be as premium and amazing as possible.
One thing I find really important and that I rarely see, is the usb on the side rather than the usual front one. I can’t push the keyboard against my laptop, and those distances make a difference, not to talk about the comfort of not having to worry about that. That is why I love my redragon k622. It is low profile ( I don’t need a palm rest or to worry about my wrist angle), the chassis is sturdy, the typing is really comfortable and fast… and the usb is on the left side, with (obviously) an appropriate chord. Need not to look further. Unless it’s for the single want to build them or going split or something like that.
So I don’t know what my favorite switch is yet I just purchased my first mechanical keyboard and I got the glorious pro (the fully assembled version) and I love it. Now it’s like a drug and I’m constantly considering buying key caps and switches and this website so dose not help said urges lol. Great content love the website!
I just built my first custom keyboard with an Akko Mod006 barebones kit. It turned out way better than I expected, I just needed to put more lube on the stabilizers. It came with pre lubed plate mounted stabilizers but they were also running a deal that gave out free screw in stabilizers that I ended up using instead. Honestly only the spacebar needs to be lubed more IMO
This should be king of budget Alu Boards. For p/p, its better than its brother, Akko Mod Series, Keychron Q Series and many other Alu builds below $200 so far. Akko just release the cream series switch (cream yelllow and cream blue) which are pretty cheap and good sound for those who interested in the creamy sound. Beside that, there is akko piano switch which stated hand-lubed which is also interesting. There product range is pretty similar to Keychron (even bigger) but they need more distributions in oversea to be well-known brand. FYI, Akko keycap is ok but its not 100% PBT as the caps get shining over time, it should be something mixed between abs and pbt. But their packaging is pretty impressed. The nicest packaging in the market so far. Its unbelievable for $50 keycap packaging.
HI there, Hipyo!! Regards from Brazil. I’m looking for a pre-bulit keyboard, and got stuck between some brand choices. Which one of these would you recommend? Akko, Eppomaker or Yuzii ? I’d appreciate if you’d help me out here. =) Btw, congrats for your vids, they are awesome ! Keep up with them ! s2
My first keyboard was/is the Akko cherry blossom V2(?), with blue switches (shut up I LOVE THEM), and my only mod has been adding a layer of craft foam to the bottom of the case to sweeten the sound. I don’t use my keyboard for gaming, and I would NEVER want to be in the same room with anyone else using such loud switches, but for me, it’s the sound of ~productivity~ and I love it. I just wish MacOS would let me remap a few of the kana keys and recognize the fn/globe key, but that’s not Akko’s fault. The board is solid, the full size layout I have is perfectly ergonomically for me (I do actually use spreadsheets to keep track of my budget and Minecraft world so you can try and pry my 10-key out of my cold, dead hands), and on my wooden desk, especially when I pull it forward onto my desk mat, the sound is just so thunky and typewriter-y without overwhelming my senses (others in the house may disagree, which is fair and valid). I love that the set came with tons of alternate keycaps too, I think I’m using all of them to replace some of the more boring standard function-y keys.
I personally build my first keyboard using a GMMK and Akko Rose Red linear switches, and I still use it to this day! Are Akko products top of the line? Nah, but for the price to performance they offer, they’re great for beginners or enthusiasts on a budget IMO Glad you finally took the time to cover some of their products, and I’m interested to see whatever you make next! 🙂
I bought an Akko 3061S prebuilt in December because I wanted to try a modable keyboard and it was under €100 for me in Holland. It’s the Tokyo World Tour R2 edition with Akko CS Jelly pink switches are very nice. I hadn’t played around with linear but I like the a lot. I ordered a Keychron Q2 kit afterwards while using Akko sponge switches (Tactile) and those are very nice also. I haven’t modded my 3061S yet but it’s a tray mounted model and is all you need to do to go inside is removing switches, keycaps and 4 screws. After that tapemod or foam can be easy installed.
Hi Hipyo! I am new to the keyboard modding stuff so I’m leaving this here as this is the closest to what I am currently working on, the Monsgeek M2. Yeah, yeah… the numpad. I saw here that you recommended the Durock V2 stabs, however, I saw in some Reddit posts that the Durock V2s do not fit the M2 plate, just wondering if you can check the M2s and let us know what you think, specifically the stabilizers.
Hi Hipyo, can you comment on the longevity of this in a later article? I have a lot of friends whose keebs dont last long, and its approx the same budget range w keychron (within $10-20 difference). Fwiw, I rather buy keychron even its $10-20 more expensive, if i can get longevity out of the $10-20 more.
i have one of Akkos sailor moon pre-made keyboards ones, the pink full size keyboard. however, i find it VERY LOUD. they’re not blue switches but they sure sound like it to me lol. i am pretty heavy-handed though so it could just be a me problem. a friend with the same keyboard says her sounds really good. this one in your article is definitely WAY quieter than mine which surprised me considering its like half the price of the one i have
Hey Hipyo, love your articles. I’ve been on the hunt for a good keyboard for article editing in a dark room. Something relatively quiet, with dark light up keys. I love the sound choices and the “feel” you make with your keyboard mods. I humbly ask if you would be interested in creating a nice keyboard for article editing. – A freelance film editor.
I had an Epomaker Skyline board I built a while ago, the driver software had a virus built in and I ended up foolishly installing a firmware update from the Akko website and it bricked my board; nothing I tried could fix it apart from using an entirely different PCB. Anyways, I took my switches and stabs out, put them in a barebones Keychron Q2 and haven’t looked back since. Hopefully their new line of “MOD” keyboards as well as the Monsgeek lineup is a better experience, I liked the board apart from the issues mentioned.
sounds good! I have a set of the akko/eppomaker laser clone (ish?) keycaps, and am pretty impressed with what you get for the price (I think $50) when I bought them. Got some Akko silver switches as well and just finished lubing them but haven’t put them in the board yet, but they also seem pretty good. I think there’s some real value in some of this stuff, and really the biggest boon is that most of it is in stock. Some snobs may say if you haven’t waited 6+ months for everything in your setup, you’re not a “real” mech enthusiast (whatever that means). I think if you have something that makes you smile and love typing whenever you use it, that’s all that matters!
I wonder if it’s something they fixed in other keyboards. I have the MonsGeek M5, which was my first build, at the time I did not know the tape it included was for the tape mod. I did 3 layers of frog tape and the foam insert still, all fit together nicely. I’m doing a MonsGeek M2 now and a Keychron Q5 for my wife. I did wish they had a knob version for the M2 (I like 1800 layout) as I like the aluminum case/build for the MonsGeek better than Keychron Q5 but will see after some use of both.
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“everything Akko makes is incredibly cheap” I struggle to see the point in modding a premium keyboard at all. personally, I love redragon and akko for my main source to mod. modding is what I love and they make it easy to do and yield the greatest difference once complete. akko jelly blackes or CS Silvers lubed, akko asa keycaps, my Akko 3098B. From the products to the packaging “cheap” doesn’t come to mind.
Every time I see keyboard recommendations, and I go to the site, the company doesn’t do UK layouts 🙁 I’d love to see some reviews of boards that support ISO layouts (ideally prebuilt for those of us who aren’t confident enough to build an expensive board from a kit) – Ducky, or the epomaker TH80 pro maybe. Keychron is tough because often their layouts are wrong or they don’t sell the ISO board prebuilt, and after that I don’t know of any other companies that make serious enthusiast boards.
1. I’m not exactly sure if krytox on cat paws and especially in a cats stomach is such a good idea. The website states it is ‘chemically inert’ but i still wouldn’t want to get it near my pets. 2. That ‘paper’ is a plastic liner you can leave in the case as is or peel off and glue to the bottom case to prevent shorting out the PCB. It’s not a tape mod. 3. You complain about the PCB mount stabs but don’t even mod them properly ? Wrong and way too much lube for the stab legs, no holee mod ? Ofc they’re gonna sound and feel bad. I am in no way trying be a dick here, but this review of an honestly really good entry level board leaves much to be desired.
Hey can you look at Nuphy studio keyboards especially the halo 96 for 140$? I recently purchased it with night breeze switches and would like to see you do a review on it and mod it. Edit this is the first keyboard I’ve purchased all I really know about keyboards is form YouTube mainly your articles and am enjoying the keyboard so far have had it for about a week.
I was really interested in getting an Akko keyboard until I contacted them and they said that their 2.4 GHz wireless connections don’t use any encryption. Yikes. That’s a massive security flaw and a huge deal-breaker. It means every keypress is being broadcast in plain text over radio, and bad actors could even send their own keystrokes to your receiver. I don’t think anybody should be recommending their wireless models. For comparison, Logitech and SteelSeries have both confirmed that they use encrypted connections.