Which Of These Spells Gains From Trag’Oul’S?

As long as you follow the instructions MMO is perfectly safe to use on newer cars. You are only putting 2 ounces for every 10 gallons. It is so diluted it will NOT harm your catalytic converter. MMO also helps keep the fuel pump lubricated making it last longer. That is a pretty big deal since most cars now have the fuel pump inside the gas tank and are VERY expensive to replace.

I found a good use for Marvel Mystery Oil as a solvent for cleaning my M1911 .45 ACP semi-auto pistol. Instead of doing a full-strip disassembly on the gun I suspend the gun in a bucket of MMO, completely immersing it, and let it soak for a couple of hours. It cleans and lubricates all of the parts very nicely.

I use MMO in my Duramax 2023 Chevy 3500 diesel truck fuel mixed 50/50 with Howes diesel additive makes it run very smooth! I’ve used it in all my diesel trucks like this to include a 2013 Duramax 2500 and two other Dodge trucks with Cummings engines. No problems at all. The one Dodge I sold had 250k miles on it and was purring like a kitten! Great stuff!

From another web site: Marvel Mystery Oil. 70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil) – It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. (Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster. 29% Mineral Spirits – Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant. 38 parts per million (ppm) Boron – AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant 900 ppm Phosporous – AW/EP agent 1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene – EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer 1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene – EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer Oil of wintergreen – for the scent – Not just for the scent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity. Red Dye – for the color – well this one just colors the stuff

OK Folks, here is a little known fact for you. On the vintage airplane circuit where you see these WWII fighter aircraft MMO is used by the gallons. These aircraft start at about $2 million each. These engines are constantly rebuilt according to FAA specs. Every single part is inspected and many of the parts are built by the same companies that supply engine parts to NASCAR and Indy teams. MMO is used regularly in these engines for lubrication and as an additive for keeping parts gum free. Several of the mechanics told me they use it in their personal vehicles. I have been using MMO for over 40 years with no problems.

I add 6 ounces of marvel mystery oil to my fuel tank all the time. It says its safe for fuel injectors, o2 sensors, and cats. I add a little to my oil at the end of my oil life to clean things a bit. I also put a spray nozzle in The bottle, and spray my engine and suspension. It cleans things, and coats things with a light coat of oil which keeps rust away

Scotty did say you don’t use the Original Classic MMO in Modern Cars which is mostly correct because there is an MMO Product made specifically for Modern Cars called MMO Ultimate Fuel & Motor Treament for GDI Engines and Hybrids. The Classic MMO product is good for cars before 2012. It’s recommended to use the MMO Ultimate if your running a 2012 car or newer. Alittle clarity for those in question. Especially when Project Farm demonstrated that it does work in Gas.

I’ve been adding MMO to my 2014 Nissan after the engine was broken in. No problems, no warning lights. Still running like new. I think the comment about not adding MMO to the fuel was not in the correct context of stating that MMO shouldn’t poured into a modern air filter. Maybe it was an editing error in the article.

My 2004 honda accord 2.4l was using about 1qt every 1000 miles i ran MMO in the oil for a 1000 mile then pulled to spark plugs and pt 2 tbsp in each cylinder and let it sit fir a couple days. Cranked it over a bit to get it out and then fired it up. Change the oil and now i’m getting offset 2500 miles before it uses a qt and it definitely seems to run better

I use it in my 2000 silverado with 6.0 at every oil change. I use valvoline max life 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter. PF63E oil filter is bigger and takes about 1/2-1qt more than the shorter filter and I pre fill the filter with MMO. It sits perfectly on full on the dipstick and is cheap insurance ($4 at wally world)

I substitute a quart of MMO in with my regular oil (5qts oil 1qt MMO) whenever I change it, and within the first few hundred miles of doing it for the first time, I noticed my engine idled smoother and my valves (mechanical valve train) were much quieter. When I recently adjusted my valves I was amazed with how clean the assembly was when I removed my valve cover after having used MMO for a few years. It’s definitely worth it in my opinion. Soon I’ll boroscope my cylinders and see what it looks like in there. I expect the usual thin buildup of carbon on the piston heads, but I’m expecting everything will be clean otherwise.

I’ve got a ’92 Nissan 240SX that I’ve had for a few years just sitting and not running. Finally getting around to fixing what’s broken or incorrect on it in regards to the engine and transmission. MMO was suggested to ensure that the internal parts will move again and maybe not need to do a total rebuild. Here’s hoping.

Coating the terminals connectors with dielectric grease also helps with corrosion. I would have to clean mine yearly, did that onces. Still no corrosion several years later. On some terminals, those pads decrease the contact surface area, which can cause other issues (mine included.) I hear of old mechanics that would use bearing grease.

Label says can be added to both gas and oil. Been using it as oil and gas additive for 30+ years w/o problems. All my cars run better, and lasted longer under sustained, long distance driving, stop and go driving, and extreme weather conditions. Noticeably better etter performance and gas mileage 👍🏻😉

There is a different MMO product for GDI/TDI and other modern engines called MMO Ultimate. Works AWESOME! Scotty is a great honest guy but take everything Scotty says with a grain of salt. I even bought an Audi…and it works 100% trouble free for years. MMO Ultimate maybe helps but I also maintain the car per guidelines.

First time i wouldn’t agree with you scot. MMO i have been using in my 2006 Hummer h3 oil and it really quitted the car noise. I am also using it with gas like 4 once for every 10 galons as it says on the bottle and it gave me 100 kms as mpg moreover it runs much smoother than before, it even removed lifters noise!! … how come u said it is not good for modern car

Scotty thanks for lesson on how clean your cat on a car. You said use a gallon of laquer thinner to 10 gals gas run about 100 miles and i did. Scotty let me say my car runs smoother then ever before thanks to your advise. I passed my inspection with flying colors. From now on i will listen to the voice of wisdom. Thanks for your kind advise keep up your great articles. Your most greatest fan eddie..

Scotty coment about the 2012 honda civic with charging problems i used to have same problem with my honda charging and after a long reserch i found out the problem was a ELD ELECTRONIC LOAD DETECTOR IS HIDE UNDER THE FUSE BOX LOCATED AT THE ENGINE COMPARMENT i went to honda dealer buy that liltle relay cost me about 6 dolars and after buy 3 alternator i fix the problem.

Damn it Scotty, I’ve tried it your way and the motor does not sound happy and runs tired. I lover the smooth sound on my engine with two or three oz. in the mid grade gas and two oz. in the motor of my Nissan Sentra, it sounds like I have powerful kittens in the motor and so smooth and zippy I feel happy. I love my MMO and have to say there may be a right amount for each vehicle. I believe it does let the oil flow easier into and out of bearings and the same for all my rings when in the fuel. It is sewing machine oil and a little bit goes a very long way. I can not see the need for more than one ounce does two and a half gallons of gas and two ounces in the motor for older cars and half that for new cars with scheduled sensor cleaning also as that is reasonable. Too much of any fluid may do harm so listen to your motor, it it does not sound like loose change banging around in the motor then you probably have a real good motor, mine needed MMO. I hate new cars, I need real metal, real bumpers and real wood and leather inside. Just look at this crap being sold as new and better, it just sucks from the first draft to production lines.

Marvel Mystery oil is great stuff, been using it for years. I use it in my gas and oil right near the end of my oil change interval. Gets all the crud and carbon out of the engine in the oil, and also cleans the fuel injectors of deposits too. It also works as a fuel stabiliser in a pinch and also helps to mitigate ethanol damage. Works better in older carbed cars, but it will still work in modern cars just fine too.

My (older) diesel loves it in the fuel. Between that and about 5 other types of lubricants I put in the fuel, that’s what helps keep it alive. It’s a naptha based oil, so it’s a cleaning oil, but not a flush. It works slower than that foul stuff. Dump a 1/2 quart in the oil a few hundred miles before an oil change if you’ve been bad and went over your mileage. Even the new bottles say don’t use it in newer vehicles as it won’t meet epa standards. When it doesn’t meet epa standards, you know it works!!!

With marvel oil to gas, they suggest 1 OZ per 10 gallons, so damage to O2 sensors or cats is pretty unlikely. I do worry a little about adding a quart to your engine oil though. Now with an older car, especially ones known for sludging up it’s worth adding a few ounces to the oil and some to the gas to slowly dissolve the gum and varnish from the engine.

I like Marvel especially for when restarting old engines that that sat around for a long while, especially if the air intakes weren’t sealed from moisture ingress. Ditto when I suspect that the piston ring grooves have a high carbon build up and the rings are now ‘sticking’ … a common problem in marine gasoline engines.

Current new car manufacturers are advocating up to 7-10,000 mile oil changes with allowable oil burning of a quart in a month. If that is true how is it that the catalytic thingy doesn’t get ruined??? Seems like using 10 oz. of marvel mystery oil for 10 gallons of gas will not hurt the catalytic converter. Especially if your engine has little to no oil burning issues…

Battery terminal, clean them add axle grease around it thin layer the nut bolt inside a top post or on the inside of side post . Oxidation is that green or white crap a thin layer will not hurt the charging been doing it over 40 years . I do it on every battery I buy and never had one get crud, have fixed a lot that looked like Scotts photos . and if your replace the battery, terminals come off easy .

I’m probably going to jinx myself, but those Pep Boys batteries are AWESOME! I have a top post from 2012 in my Impala, and it hasn’t left me sitting yet! Still using as of today! I had another one that was in my Pinto….. ( yes, I said Pinto, a 79 with a 2.3 turbo) that sat for over a year in my storage without being started, at the time the battery was over 10 years old. I went to the car, jumped in, hit the key, and it fired right up! Forget those high dollar Optima batteries and the like, get your batteries from Pep Boys, they are probably the best batteries you can find!

I have a similar problem on my 01 Nissan Maxima, I replaced the alternator and the battery and brake lights have been on ever since. I’ve had it checked multiple times by different people and it’s charging fine but the lights won’t go off. I don’t think it’s the computer as it was replaced just last year after a bad sensor ruined the whole thing

Its still good for freeing up hydraulic lifters and other gummy crankcase issues, but its more like something to use a day or two before you change the oil and just drive it around town. Seems to do the same for noisy lifters in that GM 3.0L 4 cyl used for I/O drive in boats. I never saw anything great from using it in Johnson 2 stroke outboards and I never got the urge to put it in any 4 stroke gas other than an old B&S L head on a Homelite generator, (it did more for the oil pan, the engine was worn out). The high creep rate is surprisingly good for freeing up lawn mower cables drool it on tonight, fiddle with it tomorrow. It’s usually out the other end within a day..

Hey Scotty, Just got my hands on a 94-96 Isuzu Bighorn/Trooper, changes A/T fluid, but sometime the transmission becomes stupid, would shift to lowest gear then wont shift up until I get to 31k rpm. replaced speed sensor already, still having the stupid shift issues, but it will go away after a few minute of driving. A/t Oil wasn’t burnt before changing it. Other than that transmission shifts ok”ish”

Scotty how do you feel about me adding this to my fuel tank in my boat to clean out the carb. Also can I pour it right into my carb. As you know I have no oxygen sensor or smog equip. Also if I was trying to break engine free. How much would I put in each cylinder. What do you think about this in a trabsmission??? So many questions you should make a more in depth vid.

I bought a 2010 Toyota Tacoma some months back and probably two months ago or so the dealership where I bought it sent me a message said there was a recall notice,,, when they sold it all they had to do was inspect the framing if it was good they could sell it,,,, but then Toyota revised the recall list to make it more stringent,,,,the recall was revised for cold-weather states because of being salted in winter ❄️ so mine was brought in they had to scrape the entire frame down and inspected replaced anything if it needs replaced and they did replace a few small items I believe and then they had to put a type of sealant all over it it’s like a wax it dries to a hard wax that rubs off easily and you cannot hardly get it off your hands I found that out when I did an oil change,,, i’m going to have it reinspected every year independently and if I find damage I’m going to solicit Toyota for a new frame. I don’t know if Toyota will inspect it further or treat it further or if this is a one time treatment???

MMO has excellent detergent properties. Pour a couple ounces of MMO in the oil 5 days before you change the oil. It’ll help clean the motor. If you change the oil on schedule you won’t have a lot of sludge, but it won’t hurt to use MMO now and then. If the motor is burning oil the smell of the wintergreen oil in MMO is better than the smell of exhaust smoke! If you want to really clean the upper cylinders, get a $20 endoscope camera for a laptop or a smart phone. Remove the spark plugs and hand rotate the motor so the pistons are about an inch below the top – use the camera to check. Pour a little upper cylinder cleaner in the cylinders and let sit for a couple hours, maybe overnight. Use compressed air to blow out the cleaner so you don’t hydrolock the motor. The piston rings and lands will be almost as clean as if you soaked them in carb cleaner. The cleaner will remove the lubrication so you should squirt a little motor oil in, and hand rotate the motor. This technique will clean the rings in a motor that has been mostly driven on short trips. Just make sure you don’t hydrolock the motor. Change the oil before starting the motor.

Read Marvel’s mystery flush pure oil system and 79 Harley that was smoking bad and running rough. Got the bike hot during the oil added the flush Granite for a minute drain flush have a good 30 weight ran that change filter Fram 30 weight again thanks filter for the proper 50 weight in no more smoking ran great for 5 years with regular oil changes. Marvel makes a grand mystery

Hey Scotty, I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima. I brought it when it had 149,000 Miles. The transmission blew at 160,000 miles. I went and got the transmission replaced with a 2001 nissan Altima. The maxima shifts from 1 to 4th fine but when it shifts into Overdrive, it stays in gear for 20 seconds and it goes back to forth, and never returns to Overdrive unless I turn the car off. What can be wrong with it?

Mr. Kilmer. Marvel Mystery Oil at about 6 to 8 oz when you fill up the tank to lubricate the fuel system, remember they took the sulfur out of gasoline about 12 years ago, so that your fuel gauge continues to function and your injectors continue to work right, because it also cleans injectors, not to mention it’s one of the best upper cylinder Lube you can apply. It mixes well enough with gasoline that it will not cause any issues with oxygen sensors or catalytic converters. I’ve used it monthly for years on cars and never had a single issue with it. As a history lesson, Marvel Mystery Oil was originally a motor oil for World War radial aircraft engines where the crankshaft was bolted to the aircraft and the engine and propeller spun independently of the crankshaft, as the crankshaft was stationary. In 1923 they started bottling it and named it Marvel Mystery Oil. It’s been one of the best lubes that exist up to and including this day. About a week before a oil change when you’re about a quart low, throw a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in it and it will keep the lifters clear and the engine clear of debris for the lifetime that you own the automobile. As for the corrosion on the battery post. At least until you get a new battery clean the post put it back together and put a couple of drops of STP oil treatment on it. It will coat that battery posting it will not corrode as it’s protected by that STP.

marvel mystery oil can help. it stopped smoking(burning oil) in my 92 chevy but im guessing it did sit because transmission was bad but has new transmission now. after running a quart of marvel mystery oil less than a 100 miles it dang near completely stopped smoking im guessing it might have freed up oil control rings?

I tried just about everything natural for my little 15-year-old Chihuahua Foxy to stop the instatisble itching. 😢Nothing worked at the end of all that .. so now I just go to the vet and unfortunately have to pay $130 a month for cytopoint injection. I get the Human version called dupixent or dupilumab and every few weeks for my very severe eczema which I don’t have to pay for thank goodness 👍

My dog had LEAKY GUT,,,, when she came along my way a few years ago. Due to her poor immunity and poor diet, stress, etc. it’s a VERY LONG DIFFICULT ISSUE TO TREAT AND RESOLVE. IT HAS BEEN SBOUT 3 years, and she’s healthier than ever now. All natural treatment,, no yeast. Lots of studying I had to do. Has to be changed IN THE GUT,,

First, try taking your dog or cat off all commercial dog and cat foods and snacks. You Tube has recipes for dog & cat foods. China purchased Purina about a year ago. When I stopped commercial food and snacks, she stopped itching! I haven’t had any more problems. I buy chicken legs on sale, which cost about $3.50 and under. I add carrots, green beanssweet potato or pumpkin, broccoli,a clove of garlic for dewormmy dog. If I have leftover mash potatoes, mac and cheese or squash, spinach, etc. I don’t have a problem with my dog itching anymore. I make a patch by putting the food in silicone 1/3 or 1/2 cup holders freezer, remove, place in zip lock bags. Take in down as needed. She loves it!

Tried coconut oil and olive oil on my dog several times. Made her vomit. Rub dry baking soda on your hands. It is very irritating and it burns after you leave it on awhile. tried oatmeal bath. she developed a fungus on her skin. Tried the apple cider vinegar rinse. Caused itchy scabs all over. Haven’t tried the others. I am not saying these remedies don’t work. I only know they didn’t work for me. or my little dog. I suggest you use extreme caution when applying any natural home remedies.on yourself, your pets or your children. . You could end up being very sorry.