This video tutorial teaches how to recalibrate an Aquarite salt chlorine generator, providing tips and products for pool care. The video also shows how to fix the classic thermistor inrush current limiter. The Hayward Aqua Rite® operation and installation manual can be found online. The video also discusses the display readings on the generator and provides links to guides for adjusting or recalibrating values, such as average. The video also discusses power-up of the unit after replacing a burnt-out thermometer. The Hayward Aqua Rite salt reading may be incorrect due to a faulty thermistor or a need to replace the cell. Resetting the Aqua Rite board or recalibrating the salt chlorine generator may also help. The first step is to check if the board is trying to read the correct cell. If the display is reading the default “average salt level”, a replacement main circuit board may be necessary. The faulty part is a small black disc controlling the initial surge of current when the circuit turns on. The video concludes that the Hayward Aqua Rite Salt Cell is not generating any chlorine after cleaning and super chlorinating.
📹 How to repair (for 5$) the Hayward Aqua Rite chlorine generator
How to repair (for 5$) the Hayward Aqua Rite chlorine generator Click Here :http://bit.ly/3cW05zD How to repair (for 5$) the …
📹 How to Repair Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite Pool Chlorine Generators
This video demonstrates how to repair a Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite pool chlorine generator. The video focuses on replacing the thermister, a common point of failure that causes the power light to flicker. The repair involves unsoldering the old thermister, soldering in a new one, and reassembling the unit.
ETA: I did this “repair” about 4 times, and thought I was the worst solderer on the planet because you were showing to solder from the top. I finally watched another person’s tutorial, and realized that the prongs need to go in through holes, and be soldered from the bottom. OY! Lol…still love the article, but you should have probably made that more clear for the dummies. 😉 NOW it’s working. Moral of the story: watch more than one person’s tutorial before attempting repairs. OMG, I freakin’ love the internet! I just completed this repair myself, and saved hundreds. THANK YOU!! One thing about my unit is that I couldn’t take the circuit board inside because most of the connections are soldered. I just unscrewed the entire unit from the wall, and set it on a bucket in the pool pump room. (Disconnected the power supply first!) This repair is genius. I haven’t soldered anything since high school jewelry class, but for about $30 dollars in supplies (new part, soldering kit and voltage detector), I have chlorine generating again. ♥
Thanks for this article. 16 years and this was the first problem with my salt generator. The only part of the article that drove me crazy was the glossing over of resetting/ recalibrating the salt level. Seems like you explained everything else, so why not that. But I found a article for that easy enough, and my salt reading was accurate, so I didn’t even need to do that. Thank you for the super helpful article.
I bought a new control panel 7 years ago because it failed. I put the old one in the garage with the intent of throwing it out when I came across this repair. I think the diode cost maybe $8 back then, but it was an easy repair. Glad I came across this article so I can do the repair again, if necessary. I didn’t book mark the old article.
I have the Hayward Goldline Control Chlorinator for many years. The board version is r1.40. It is only in the past week or so, once a while, there is a loud bang coming out of the box, the power to the pump momentarily turns off, then back on again. The default display on the digital panel is showing 1.2 instead of the salt level (not sure what the 1.2 means, but for all these years, it’s always the salt level). I suspect the loud bang comes from the transformer, but the display leads me to think of the electronic board. Which component do you think I should replace first? Many thanks!!!
Mine was claiming a low salt level ( 1700 ). Outside testing said I was at around 3400. I tried recalibrating several times and it always went back to 1700. When I pulled it apart the thermistor looked fine. I used a multimeter to test it. Thermistor read 1.7 ohms. When I put an ice cube on one side the reading dropped to zero, putting the ice cube on the other side and it went up. It should not have gone up. So I ordered a new thermistor and tested that prior to installation. Ice on both sides dropped the ohms. I soldered the new one in, hooked everything back up, and it started reading about 3400 on the salt. Simple easy fix and far better than spending $400 on a new board.
Had “Pool Guy” come to my house when mine shat. He told me that my house had been struck by lightning and at a minimum, the PCB needed replacing. 400 bucks. But he highly recommended replacing the entire box. 1200 dollars. “Well, it HAS been struck by lightning….” I smelled a rat and asked Mr Google. Found a guy who sold me a brand new PCB for like 70 bucks. That was ten years ago. It just failed so now I am looking for options to repair it. I may have a tech just solder a new thermistor onto the old board and see if it works. I’ve got a guy who works for peanuts. He just replaced a jillion little electrical bits on my old Marantz 2240 and Pioneer SX980 receivers.
Hi buddy – just wanted to say thank you! Saved me hundreds of $$. An electronics expert I am not – I haven’t soldered anything since high school. For $17 I bought a cheap soldering iron and a couple of thermistors. Managed to fix it in less than an hour thanks to your article. The internet is a beautiful thing!! 👍 thanks again – u rock!
Just completed my repair😀 I ordered a soldering kit and replacement thermistor from Amazon. And I able to replace the part with this article and a few others that I saw. Two year ago it cost me 500 dollars to replace the board via a pool service. My total cost today was twenty dollars Thank you !! P.S I had also just replaced the salt cell at a cost of $375 and the board when bad. Total cost of $395 to be ready for the summer heat🏊🏻🏊🏻🏊🏻🏊🏻.👍👍👍👏👏👏
Thanks for your time in producing this article. My 13 year old Goldline SWG control board failed last night. Standing front of the enclosure in 90 degree sun and high humidity, I knew that I was in for some uncomfortable troubleshooting today with my Fluke multimeter. Your article let me to the exact problem…Yep the thermistor was split. I wouldn’t have noticed it at first without you. I just ordered it from Mouser 2 day Fedex. Again, thanks a bunch! 🙂
I just repaired mine and it seems to be working great. I found the piece really hard to remove. I went and bought a more powerful gun and it was still tough. I run you do need a larger soldering iron like you have in the article and maybe somebody that can pull the thermistor out. Soldering it back in was the easy part and I used my smaller iron for that
Nice DIY article! I have the Hayward Goldline Control Chlorinator for many years. The board version is r1.40 (looks just like yours). It is only in the past week or so, once a while, there is a loud bang coming out of the box, the power to the pump momentarily turns off, then back on again. The default display on the digital panel is showing 1.2 instead of the salt level (not sure what the 1.2 means, but for all these years, it’s always the salt level). I suspect the loud bang comes from the transformer, but the display leads me to think of the electronic board. Which component do you think I should replace first? Many thanks!!!
My cell was 10 years old. Was not used the whole time. Used for 3 years then not used for 5 but had water flowing through it. I hooked everything up soldered the flo sensor wires and worked for a couple years no problems. My salt got low and pool was in need of new pebble tech so I shut it down and used packets for a few months till the pool was finished. New water and after a month to let the pebble tech set up fully I added salt and got the system going and it said 900ppm salt I slowly added the salt till the strips said I have just enough to make it work like 2200ppm but the read out still says 900. All the while I was adding salt I watched the readout and it just staid at 900. Even before I added salt it should of had no salt but it said 900. The pool store said it could be the cell or brain box. Figure it has not been changed for ten years so I got one 500$+. Went to change and there was a bit of build up not as bad as I thought it would be. I cleaned it very good and tried it again and same thing 900. Before I install the new one I would sure like to know this 500$ part is the issue. Is there a way of testing it pin to pin with an ohm meter? Any help is greatly appreciated. My wife and I are just trying to fix everything so we can sell this place before we run out if money and loose it. After my heart attach and loss of my job we can’t afford this place anymore. 7,000 for the leaks I’m the pool already because it was not up to code with the drain that was in it and the hollow spots that they said it had but never seen to have fixed.
My aquarite has power, but has two lights on Chek Salt and Inspect Cell- both lights stay on and no generating. Do you think this lollypop part needs replacing on my unit? Thank you so kindly. (some extra info is the salt cell is reading working – the salt levels are where they should be by the pool store and still solid lights on). My unit is 9 years old and the salt cell is 2 years old. Thank you
I changed this part 2 years ago. The original lasted 5 years. Now it needs another one. If I squeeze the current limiter together the power light would come on, so I knew it was cracked again. I gave it a wiggle and it crumbled. I’m calling this a bad design by Hayward. It’s basically planned obsolescence. I’m sure Hayward knows this part fails often. When you call them they want you to purchase a new board.
my board failed. the generating light came on for several seconds then it would make a click and the light would go out. some how i figured it was the board. so i replaced it and it works now. then i come on youtube and find all these articles. mostly its the thermistor current limiter thats causing all the problems. my unit was powering up so would that be the problem still? we get lots of power failures in the winter so i figured it finally got blasted even though it survived multiple outages prior to this. any ideas? I’m thinking that i might change the thermistor and see if that cures it. 12$ part why not…
Bravo! Great article, repair worked perfectly. My 4 year old unit failed after a big storm, and this repair worked fine until another big storm hit a month later – ugh! I recommend using a wall-mount surge protector to protect your unit, here’s the option I’m using now that I’m happy with (Amazon affilitate link: amzn.to/2Pj4OSi) Good luck with your repair.