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📹 This Ultimate Hair Styling Guide Eliminates Product Confusion Forever!
Chapters: 00:00:00 – Intro 00:01:51 – Choosing the right hair products 00:04:02 – An Overview of Hair Products 00:06:01 – Styling …
📹 10 Tips to Keep Your Trailer From Being Stolen!!
Do you own a trailer? If so, are you taking all the proper precautions to keep it safe? It only takes minutes, if not seconds for a thief …
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I use wax powder. I got into it as my barbers’ used it once so I went and looked online. I comes in a container that looks a little bit like a salt/pepper pot and you shake the powder on to your hair and it congeals as wax, from where you style it. You can also shake it into your hand if you want to avoid getting some of it down your top or on your face (that’s probably the only drawback) but I don’t find that method as effective and it brushes/cleans off easily anyway. I like it because I’ve been going for the matte quiff kind of look for years, almost as if I don’t have any product in, but have never really managed it successfully until now! I used to use something called Fish Paste putty but it was discontinued. The brand is still around but they don’t seem to stock the particular type of product I liked anymore but that worked quite well too.
I used many different oil based pomades for a few years with strong to extreme hold. It was a great experiece in the matters of hold and restyleability, but you must be aware. Some of those only wash out with the help of oil, or special shampoos, a few just don’t wash out. I never found anything water based even close to their styling possibilities, but still got rid of them because of their inconvenience.
I prefer pomade – it has to have a stronger hold and be moisturizing. As I’ve gotten older, my skin is much drier than it used to be. So now my fine hair dries out if I use gel too much, which used to be my go-to styling aid. Not all pomades are created equal. Some are more like clays and those do NOT go well with my hair. Pomade is the only thing that acts like the gel I used to use, but without the drying effects of alcohol they put in gel.
Styling my hair on and off I’ve found that a wax based pomade, cream or paste are the juggernauts of product. Almost any style can be achieved, maintained, and reworked with relative ease without the need of some crazy haircare regiment. Clean hair, a half decent brush, and slightly less product than you THINK you need and you can work wonders with your hair.
I stopped using hair products awhile back because I didn’t like how “crusty” it made my hair feel and I liked it when my girlfriend would run her fingers through my hair and it also left a residue when she did when I had product in. Do some of these products like mousse, creams, or even fiber have a solution that doesn’t do that? It holds but if you touch it it still feels natural and not crusty or greasy?
I use Johnny Slicks oil based pomade and it is the best product I have ever used for my hair. ( I have long hair) Plus it’s made by former Marines. Personally I can’t stand water/cream based pomade, they wash out easy but omg they clclump up so much and get hard, it makes it impossibly to Bru my hair lol.
I think there are also two types of straight hair. 1a) Thin: What you expected. The most common for a lot of people. 2b) Hard: Common for Asian people. Best way to explain this is that if you cut your hair short, it’ll start to stand up and you look like a porcupine. I have this problem. Clay/wax tends to work to flatten the hair on your scalp, but it never last for a whole day, so ultimately people like me have to deal hair that sticks out like needles.
As a guy who had long hair for 20 ish years. Completely new to hair styling and products. I’m really glad articles like this exist. My dad just had short army cut so no styling. Just got the product my grandpa used thinking it worked great for him. It’s brylcreem. It works pretty well for me. Hoped to gain more knowledge from here. Thank you very much. It was very enlightening for me.
My barber suggest Gibbs beard oil for my beard one day. Decided to try their styling clay. Awesome scent. Awesome hold, but still soft enough I can put a little water on my hands and style it anyway I want mid day. Water will dissolve it immediately but I wash mine everyday because of what I do for a living. I use their body/hair wash as well. Gibbs is a Colorado company and 95% of their products smell amazing.
I find that combination of products works for me. A common problem is that people use to much product in their hair & it either gets to heavy & falls down or gets hard like a helmet. Using a dimes amount of gel & then touching up lose hairs with some flexible hold hairspray works for me. Of course if I’m going for a pompadour, since I have straight hair, I usually will use a volume increasing shampoo & then a polmade or fiber
Never been a fan of the barber shop to much to maintain and have to keep going back every week to keep it in shape. When I had hair I did the slickback look, water or gel is all you need, but I tinkered with the style for over 20 years and found out that using oil puts a nice weight/volume to hair, what oil you might ask, Coconut oil works good and if you mix it write to wet hair you dont need much and it saves a ton of money on products.
I have a question and was hoping someone could help me out. First off I have loved using gels in the past, but my real question is what hair products can I use to style my hair that aren’t going to reck my hair if I have them in every day? I do shower every day at night so it all does come out. But also I was wondering if almost every product is ok in your hair depending on what brand you buy? Like I know when I was using gels only once in a while did I ever use a better brand like crew. But other wise for the most part it was what ever was cheapest from walmart with a steong hold. Oh and sorry I do have to rule out wax I have tried it before and I have such a tough time taking it out and putting it in I ruled it out. Thank you for any one who might be able to help me out with this problem.
I have curly hair, and I actually want my mullet back, but the fiance doesn’t want me to have my mullet for our wedding, what would you recommend I do for a style for my wedding next month without cutting the back of my head? Top is much longer than the rest and just been using a curl cream in it but thats not going to cut it for our wedding lol.
the BIGGEST misconception is that you need ANY product for your hair. you don’t, not even for washing! I have thick wavy hair (turkish heritage, so it’s really thick) and grew it out twice way down my back and cut it short in between. 3 years ago or so, I stopped using shampoo and conditioner. in the first few weeks, my hair was really shiny and oily, but I kept on washing it with just warm water everyday. it started looking more and more beautiful and healthy, and no, it never stank (just had the natural smell of course), and it felt even thicker. now I have it short and still haven’t used any shampoo/conditioner since then. it makes no sense to dry it out with shampoo and nurish it again with conditioner. then there’s still the question „how do I style my hair without any products?”. since my hair is now naturally oily (NOT shiny), I don’t even have to use styling products anymore (I used murray’s pomade because of its thickness), because the hair has so much more grip naturally, and it’s just „sticky” enough to style. a blowdryer with cool air function is just enough to fix the damp hair into place. I can only suggest everyone to try out for three weeks (yes, those weeks are annoying) and then see for yourself.
None of the hair examples were blonde. This makes a big difference. You probably not going to change or make another article, but none of what you said in this article helps. If you did a more inclusive article with other colors of hair included then it would have been worth something. The reason why this matters to these types of products is that they affect the volume and color of the hair. As an example, blonde hair like mine is thin, it is easy to look flat, and the more serious issue is it looks dirty very quickly. Brown and black color hair are super easy to style with any product but what about red, blonde, or colored hair like blue and green ( I can’t imagine why, but some do color their hair these colors….)?
Pretty good article. as LEO of 20 years who has taken tons of stolen trailer reports, this is all pretty good stuff. I have saw all of it defeated though. if pros, they will bring a chain, wrap it around the tongue, wrap it around their ball, and off they go. I had a report on a cargo trailer full of tools one time with a full yellow boot on it and tongue lock, where they did the chain trick dragged it 2 miles down a rural country road in the middle of the night, gouging the asphalt, taking back into the trees where they could take their time cutting the door locks and cleaned out the tools. it wasnt hard for me to find it… as I just followed the gouge trail left by the boot… 3 things I will add: 1. get a few stickers made up “GPS Tracked” and put them where they are visible. whether you have it tracked or not. That will make them think twice and the thought of them searching tip to tail for a tracker that isnt there frantically is funny to me. they dont know if its really tracked or not. 2. The BEST deterrent I have ever saw was a farmer who got tired of his trailer being stolen, so he welded a ball on top of a 3 inch piece of pipe, concreted it in the ground, leaving it sticking up about 18 or so inches so he could unhook his trailer, pull it over to the concreted ball and hook it up. Coupled with a hitch lever lock that covers the shackle and doesnt allow them to cut it off, that renders the trailer near impossible to steal unless they have the hour it would take and a cordless grinder to cut the ball off the pipe.
A couple of more tips in regards to car trailers or boat trailers- if you have an electric winch- either peen one of the bolts over so it can’t be removed without a grinder, or fit a decent quality padlock through a hole in the winch base and mount plate- I have seen waaay too many electric winches ‘disappeared’… it takes only seconds to undo four bolts and chuck it in the boot of a car… 😞 (I have seen a boat ramp where thieves made off with over a dozen electric winches without anyone noticing…) And if you have like mine an onboard battery in the battery box for the winch- I have a small 12w solar panel epoxied to the lid of the box to keep the battery topped up when not in use- you can find a ‘GPS tracker/locator’ for $20/$30 online- they look just like a normal ‘car spotlight relay’- wire this up to your winch battery, it looks like its part of the winch controls- and as soon as it moves out of its ‘geofence location’ it triggers an alarm to your phone- many also have an switchable output that you can turn on and off from the phone- connect it to the electric brakes if it has them and the battery- and then you can turn the brakes on from your phone- or trigger a siren or alarm from it… (rather than ‘ye old siren’ I used a ‘record-able message box’ $6 online lol) that has a recording of a siren sound and ‘this trailer has been stolen, please note the rego of the car towing it’ which loops over and over, and I can switch on from the phone… The phone also displays the trailers location via the GPS- so you can wait until they are stopped in town and then trigger it 🤣) or just track it and follow them.
Best lock we’ve found is a piece of black iron pipe with a steel eye welded in each end. Run it through the holes in the two rims (under the trailer) with a lock on either side. Tires will not roll and they are hard to cut off having to climb under with cordless grinder. You can thwart the grinder a bit by putting pieces of roundbar that are loose enough inside the pipe so they roll when the grinder hits them. Then they have to cut all the way around the pipe with the grinder. You can kill the lock on one side of the deal with a head on the pipe (like a nail) but then you have to slide it all the way through from one side which is a pain in a carport or covered parking. If you use locks with no exposed hasp its a pretty bulletproof solution. Usually the theif wont even see the pipe through the wheels and will try to drag the trailer off and the wheels will lock up then they have to get free of it with all the racket theyve made.
Had a 16″ tandem axle stolen. The trailer hitch coupler had a lock on it and the trailer was parked 150′ off the road deep into my property. Three years later I found it, sitting in the front yard of the property located directly behind my property. They had repainted it blue and ground off the VIN tag. I had gotten into the habit of looking at every trailer built like my stolen trailer. Years before I had taken detailed photos of construction to build another trailer for work and still had the photos to identify it. I also had photos showing it with tie downs bolted on that were now missing but the holes for them were still visible including 2 pilot holes I drilled in the wrong location. The trailer had a stolen license plate on it, the property owner claimed they bought the trailer for $500 at a gas station and the bill in sale wasn’t immediately available because it was “in storage”. The thief had no valid registration or plate and no bill of sale to prove ownership so the local police impounded it so a Texas State Trooper could attempt to identify it. I did have to pay for towing and impound but still got my trailer back.
To all of that (which was good), for long term storage (especially outdoors) I would add periodically checking, releasing, and lubricating your locks and then re-locking them. Left untouched out in the elements for long periods, locks can seize. I regularly and liberally apply silicone spray to my trailer locks.
Adding a SPOT Trace or other such GPS tracker is super useful. The breadcrumb feature and time stamps can be pretty handy in a recovery. Place it in a hard-to-find/access spot, if you can. I put heavy-duty black tape over the blinking LEDs so as not to attract attention to the unit in case the worst should happen.
A license plate is required by some States – such as Az on all trailers, which is a good idea & helps prevent stolen trailers. In Utah – no license plate is required on single axle trailers and thefts are much more prevalent. (Most manufactured trailers have a serial # stamped on them that will be on the registration with the plate.) However, I fully agree that using coupler & pin locks will help deter and protect your valuables. Very good article – thanks for sharing !!
Well put, locks only keep away the honest criminals. When our boat is laid up for winter I prefer the wheel removal and let it sit on a block so the crims have to bring a jack and they have to try and guess the lug pattern properly. It’s up against a fence so on the fence side I put a chain around the frame and around a metal fence post. All you can do is try. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
I have found that replacing the hubs with seized hubs, removing the tires and cutting the entire hitch off, then removing the floor decking and cutting the frame into about 16 pieces and putting all the pieces in your cellar will usually slow down a thief. The only downside is the 29 hours you need to reassemble your trailer every time you need it. Thank me later…
Thank you for posting this article, I can tell you from experience, that I have used several of these lock mechanisms to no avail, either professionals or amateurs stole my utility trailer, first they cut through cable around my 2 – 10’ foot farm gates, it had a heavy duty lock on it, they found it easier to cut the cable with a cut off wheel, next they cut through the receiver ball lock the yellow one with the “U” that you showed, and then they cut through the receiver release mechanism lock. So now I have to come up with a new method for securing the replacement trailer that I’m about to purchase. My father-in-law recommended digging two holes 3 foot deep 6 to 8 inches in diameter filling them with concrete and two eyebolts that will go directly under the axle chain the axle to the two eyebolts in an inconspicuous place where you can’t see it when you’re in a hurry to get out of somebody’s property. Hopefully they’ll pull the bumper off of the truck trying to remove my trailer and yes I will hide in a more secure location directly behind a house which makes it inconvenient for mowing I will have to move it every time but I won’t have to worry hopefully about someone stealing it again and I say that hopefully
the Company I work with has genius management, we got one time stolen $60,000 worth trailer ( that is used to haul special heavy duty equipment and sometimes conex boxes for big projects ) we have tracking GPS devices, every truck and van and trailer and conex is equiped with one and linked Nation wide to security company we hired to monitor them all, the 4 guys who stole it ? all now serving 5 years in prison . 🙂 great educational article, thanks for sharing
We had a neighbor ( 65 yr old) that mowed commercially he had 2 huge expensive zero turn mowers. He had mowed a huge account arrived home supper on the table, went to sleep in his recliner. He had his other big account to mow early the next morning so he left his mowers on the trailer in his driveway with 2 vehicles in front of the trailer. Now we live out in country with 20 or so neighbors . When he went out around 6:30 am his thousands of $$$ was gone!!! It was so madding!!!! Our neighbor died from a heart attack about 3 months later. Yes the equipment was insured but someone drove into their driveway and drove off with his property while he and his wife were sleeping! Evil is all around us! Thank you for the tips. God bless you.
To help identify your trailer drill a small hole somewhere it wouldn’t normally be. Example, on the frame exactly 14 inches from a marker light screw then 15 inches on the other side. The hole can be 1/16 inch. Note the locations on the police report and if recovered you can prove it’s yours. You can also go under the trailer and make a very distinct mark with a grinder and take a picture of it. Just make sure it can’t be buffed out.
Here is by far the best way to avoid having your trailer stolen, I welded 1/2 of a chain link to the inside of the rim on each side, then using a pad lock, lock a short chain to the 1/2 link and then wrap the chain around the axle. If the chain is short enough it won’t be seen and as the thief pulls away both tires are locked solid and won’t roll making a very loud screeching noise as soon as the trailer is moved. OR RUN A CHAIN THRU THE RIM OVER THE AXLE ACROSS TO THE OTHER RIM AND LOCK IT. The key is having the chain hidden so the thief don’t see it. It’s going to make a lot of noise and hop/bounce down the road, Either the tire will pop because of the flat spot from being dragged or the noise will make them release the trailer.
I can vouch for the proven industry coupler lock. Very heavy duty. Had my tool trailer stolen about 3 years ago with about 18k worth of tools and it was never recovered. For my new trailer I have the coupler lock, gps locator, a couple scissor tire locks and put on an electric tongue jack that has a kill switch in the trailer. I figured redundancies would be better.
I had a trailer stolen years ago, it was chained to a light post. I was thinking of a tie down, like a screw-into-the ground, a doggie tie out. Lock that hitch real close to the ground, and possibly another one or two for the tires. That would be too time consuming to get it loose. Great ideas in your article!
All great suggestions. I’m using several of them to keep my trailer secure, but I recently added a tilt/vibration sensor tied to my smart home hub. Even a slight bump will notify me and trigger a series of actions, including all the yard lights coming on. I’m using one from Aquara, but there are several brands out there.
Great article & awesome tips, sir! I got a fairly heavy duty bumper pull that I park in the back of my 125 foot driveway, which extends far back enough so it is blocked by one side of the house. Me and my wife’s cars are parked directly in front of it, so it is pretty boxed in & hard to see. They’d have to come from the back or the other side which is close to impossible without being detected, because the neighbors have too many sheds/obstacles in their back yards, as well as driveway barriers that I have that were there when I bought the house, so they’d have to tear everything down, and when you factor that in with a GPS tracking system, dome security camera on the house, some of the deterrents that you mentioned (which probably aren’t necessary in my case, thanks to the residential layout) Plus, the fact that the neighbor is always up at night, it’d be almost impossible for them to get away with it!
#11 attach your safety chains to a grenade pin before locking them together, carefully hide grenade under the coupler and wrap in a pool noodle. This hides the grenade and protects your shins while walking past. The grenade acts as an alarm system and helps police identify the would-be thief via DNA and lets them search for a one legged suspect not far from your property. There is a special place in my heart for thieves. Hope this helps!
I had my trailer stolen about 3 years ago. I started looking on Craigs list and there it was for sale, in my own driveway! The nerve! Marketed my trailer before they even stole it. Bastards! Kept looking on Craig’s list and found it again for sale in someone else’s driveway. Called the police and they went out there with us and we got it back. Sure wish I had one of there locks on it to begin with…
I had a family member that had their cargo trailer full of tools stolen while they were asleep in the house. Never recovered. I have 3 others that had their campers stolen out of their yards while they were away. Never recovered. When I had to leave my flatbed trailer in a small one owner motel parking lot for a week while pulling another person’s trailer I was worried about it being stolen. I took off one tire and took it with me, I put a chain and padlocked it through the other tire and around the axle, I put a padlock on the coupler lock and I took the jack handle off. Luckily it was still there when I got back. Everything I did could have been defeated but it would have slowed the thiefs down and maybe enough to get caught. Excellent article and I’ll recommend it to my friends and camping family
Excellent advice and presentation. I like all 10 but can I add number 11. Remove crank handle off trailer jack, replace (weld on) odd size nut. This will deter most and also speed up the process of connecting and disconnecting trailer if used often. I keep my Dewault impact handy with the odd size socket so I can remove and attach quickly. Sure someone could use a crescent or vice grips but that would be a lot turns. I lower my trailer down low after disconnecting as another deterrent.
I’ve done all those things in So. Cal and they still tried to steal it. But failed. 👍 I think removing one wheel and putting locking lug nuts deterred them the most. One more thing that you didn’t mention is to put the hitch area on mason blocks chained to the frame and raise the jack all the way, then remove the handle. And I even put a lock thru the bolt hole to make it hard to turn, which was the first thing they cut off but didn’t get thru the ball or wheel locks.
Great article and lots of really useful tips. For chaining my trailer to something immovable I dug a big hole in the yard where I park the trailer, put a couple bags of concrete in the hole then dropped the center of a 20’ heavy duty “cut proof” chain in and covered with the remainder of the concrete in the hole and covered it back up. I wrap each end around a different section of the tongue and frame and locked them with the hardest lock I could find. It’s obviously still possible to get my trailer but they’re gonna make enough noise and spend enough time they won’t get away. I forgot to take the chains off one morning and my duramax wouldn’t pull it out of the yard. Just spun all 4 tires LOL. So you’d definitely have to cut the chains to get anywhere.
Chad…I’m sorry to inform you that all those measures even though is good advice are only slow downs for a determined trailer thief… my car hauler was stolen twice. The second time it was behind a locked gate… chained to a 4 bag of concrete anchor that was dug under the edge of a concrete slab with a 1/2″ high tensil frame machine chain and a HUGE padlock, and one of those worthless yellow coupler locks. Cordless cut off wheel defeated all that. Now all my trailers have a removable hitch…think 3″ receiver on the tongue….can’t steal a trailer with no hitch. So far so good… I also have removable jacks so thieves can’t lift the tongue… I usually don’t bother with that but if I had a breakdown in a bad neighborhood overnight I’d take the jack with me too…I also own a big bumper pull dump trailer with a coupler that adjusts up and down with 2 bolts.. takes too long to remove and a thief could bring his own coupler so I welded together an iron “muzzle” that fits over the whole coupler assembly it has two 5/8 × 4″ plates that go back behind the VEE of the frame at the top and bottom. Then I drop a 1 3/8″ pin down through the plates and strong padlock with ” grinder shields on both sides. So far so good with that… it’s regularly parked in shady neighborhoods for many days in a row at job sites… not criticizing your tips but thought your viewers might like more extreme measures… the removal of tires is probably the best thing, but time consuming, and thieves could bring their own.
I’ve had a 3/4 ton truck with a flat bed trailer both stolen while stopping at a truck stop in Texas. They both were stolen in the time to walk in, grab a soda, check out and walk out. 3-4 minutes tops. They found the frame of the trailer in Oregon and the bed of the truck in Utah. I had the keys with me the entire time with the truck locked.
Another good way to keep them from driving off with your trailer is to just remove the lug nuts. Trailer will just sit there fine without them but when the bad guys hook up nd try to leave the wheels fall off their plan. It is a win win. You keep your trailer and more than likely you will either get their truck or recover someone’s stolen one. Most important thing to remember though is to remember to put them on when you go to move it.
Years ago after several nice trailers were stolen, I modified the replacements with a removable and collapsible A-frame. No way that it can be stolen. Haven’t lost a trailer since incorporating that feature. If parked for a time or overnight hooked to the tow vehicle, I have a 1-1/4″ hardened rod that inserts through the wheels from side to side and padlocked under the trailer making it very difficult to remove by cutting or grinding. The bane of all locking situations is the cordless grinder so any theft prevention strategy has to consider the employment of the grinder, so add a heavy website cover of some sort over the locks to prevent access by a grinder or bolt cutter
Get some pewag security chains, they are very hard to cut. Run the chain through the wheels and around a welded on anchor point on both sides of the trailer- or around the axle / leafs. Use a Abloy shielded lock. Also use a fort knox coupler lock along with a mul t lock hardened puck lock. Locking the chains is also a good idea. After we had a few stolen we started using this method, given you spend a few grand on all of the locks- its hard for people to steal it. We caught a group of several guys trying to steal one of the trailers with this set up and they gave up and left.
Excellent article. Minutes count so every extra layer of security will cause the thief to take longer to take it. I also put an AirTag on mine; It’s cheap and you don’t have to pay a membership for it. If you have a drive way you can put a hook with a chain that’s not visible when someone hooks it up so when they are taking it they won’t notice it and will make a lot of noise. I have a ring camera also aimed at it. Additionally, if you’re leaving the trailer parked for a long time; it’s a good idea to put up on wood or stands to keep the tires off the ground to save your tires.
In addition to the locks and other physical security measures I take to protect our travel trailer ( caravan ) stored at home on our drive in the UK I take other measures too. The trailer has it’s OEM fitted alarm but I have also added a tracker. THE MOST UNUSUAL ADDITION I have added though is I have extended a spare zone from my house alarm to a box on the house outside wall near where the caravan is stored and I wired a 13 pin caravan connector socket on the box where I plug in the caravan to form a normally closed alarm loop through the brake light circuit in the caravan. When that alarm zone is activated the house alarm will sound as well as the caravan alarm if someone unplugs the caravan from the house. When away in the caravan I OMIT the zone that the caravan would be on. When at home during the day I OMIT all zones except the caravan zone – occasionally caravans have been stolen off drives when occupants have been home during hours of darkness. If you show your friendly alarm engineer the brake light circuit of your caravan and provide a caravan socket and box for him ( or her ) I’m sure they would be able to do this for you – I did my own as I’m a retired electronics engineer.
i was at a sams club with my trailer, when i came out, the trailer was gone. i was not in the store very long, so i decided i would get in the truck and drive in what i thought was the most likely direction that the trailer may be heading. when i got in the truck, i noticed a baby seat in the rear seat (we had no baby) it was then i realized, my rig was a few spots further out. (yes it was an identical truck, same color, and model) anyway, that taught me a lesson, as silly as i felt, i now take great care to secure my trailer. good article, great suggestions!
All my trailer are tandem axel so I weave a 3/8 braided cable through the wheel holes back and forth in a figure 8 to tie two tires together on the passenger side so maybe they won’t see it (Hide the lock behind a tire). I also do all the locking suggestion that you have made. Note the cable can be found at Home Depot 18′ with the end made up
Great article Chad. What I do on the boat trailer is to remove the safety chains, all but one link, when we go to use it I attach the safety chains using a chain quick link…no chains to hang over the thieves hitch to haul away. You can have the best tongue lock in the world, but if you have loose chains, they can be looped over the thief’s hitch and driven away. Additionally, I jack it up, use safety stands and remove the wheels, it can’t be towed and the rubber keeps better without UV rays. My utility trailer, I recessed a 3′ deep belled concrete footer with a hardened D ring where a cut-resistant chain goes through it, the axle as well as a wheel, of course, safety chains are removed with tongue locks as well. I build all my trailers, utility, goosenecks and horse trailers (except the boat trailer), I put a lot of work into them and, I want to keep them all.
Thank you Chad. We took your advice and put in place security measures you recommended on our 5×8 box trailer. Secured the chains,the ball lock and the handle,also bought a 2 boots for the tires,and the pin lock for the tow hitch on the car as well. We are on the process to stamp the serial number on it as well as per your other article. We have lots of camping equipment on our trailer and definitely want to protect our investment. Thank you once again for your knowledge of it We are very grateful to you.
Trailer theft is a big problem where I live. I have locked down my utility trailer as much as I can. I have tongue locked, wheel locks on each wheel, and a square link hardened chain with a hardened padlock going through one of the wheels and the frame. The chain or padlock can’t be cut with an average bolt cutter so a thief would need a cutting torch or cutting wheel of some sort to get them off. Remember thieves want fast and easy when stealing a trailer. My trailer is anything but fast and easy so I believe that’s why nobody has taken it yet. One other thing, professional trailer thieves will put a hook on their receiver so even if the tongue is locked down, all they have to do is drop the trailer on the hook behind the tongue and off they go so don’t assume your trailer is safe if you only have the tongue locked. Make it as difficult to take as you can make it.
One more layer is to add a removable tongue jack, especially if you have a cargo trailer or RV as they usually have enough tongue weight to cause a hernia to the would be thief. By nature thieves are lazy and you want them to move along to the next target. The one I used is the “Ultimate Trailer Jack”, there is a short wordless article demonstrating it on my website.
The proven industries unit you mentioned is what we secure our camper RV with. Secures the hitch and latch and chains in a quarter inch thick steel ‘box’ that’s going nowhere unless the crooks bring serious cutting tools with them. Expensive? Yep, but is one percent the cost of replacing a $28,000 RV.
Do a VIN verification with your local law enforcement agency. It’s required in Ga for a tag. So while you’re at it, record your VIN. Take a picture. And put your own markings on your trailer so you can easily identify it later. Also. Maybe try those GPS tracking devices. Might help get your trailer back if it does get stolen.
I had a neighbor who was a fire fighter and he had a lawn business on his off days. One day he dropped his trailer in front of his house and went to take his wife some lunch. As I road by his house I saw two guys hooking up to his trailer. I called 911 and pulled my truck up front bumper to their front bumper. They didn’t see me pull up, so I got out to talk. They looked panicked and told the bought it from “the guy at this house.” Of course they didn’t know his name. The police pulled up at the same time as my neighbor. They went to jail and my neighbor bought me several steaks and a case of beer. He learned a big lesson that day. He was only a few seconds away from loosing a trailer, a ZTR mower, and all the other goodies.
a guy I know had his trailer w/ATV stolen from his driveway. The trailer used a 2″ tongue, but the thieves had a 1 7/8″ ball. Making their getaway (in broad daylight) the trailer tongue bounced off the ball and brought everything to a halt. A kindly neighbor noticed and offered to help no realizing he was witnessing a crime in progress. The thieves declined his offer and continued down the street (probably avoiding bumps). The lesson here is if you observe something like that call the fuzz. Get to know your neighbors and install security cameras.
I set up my boat trailers so I could remove the front 18″ of my trailers. Set up for sliding back in place with hardened thru bolts rated for this duty. My cargo trailers are set up for the front triangle to unbolt and store inside. No longer have issues with my equipment taking a runner over night at the hotel/motel. Oh Yeah, alarms with GPS on all the vehicles. Less expensive than you’ld think.
I have an 8′ piece of rebar. It has a T welded on one end. It passes through the holes in the wheels and secures with a padlock. The wheels can’t turn and can’t be removed. I use it when the trailer isn’t going to be used for awhile. It can also be taken with me if I need it. Another piece of advice: Paint your trailer a different color. Almost every trailer out there is black. It’s a lot easier for the cops to spot if you tell them it’s a red trailer.
You forgot one of the most important details. Crank your landing gear all the way up when you unhook and then remove the crank handle . It will be too high to hook up to another vehicle and they can’t crank it down with no handle. They would hafta stick a small screwdriver through the handle hole and that would take a long time.
Great article with many useful tips on preventing trailer theft. I suggest that a trailer owner takes out a replacement insurance policy. For me, it’s around $50 per year. In the event of theft or damage, it replaces my trailer, job box and accessories attached to it. Having locks and other deterrents are great preventatives, but if a thief wants it bad enough, they’ll get it. There are plenty of YT articles on how to bypass locks.
Thanks for the ideas, and additional ideas from viewers. I have had two trailers stolen from under my bedroom window. Both were commercially made with serial numbers, “uncuttable” chain and lock, with another “uncuttable” cable running through the rims, around the axels to a telephone pole. One with the trailer jack all the way on the ground, the other with the jack all the way up. Haven’t bought another trailer yet, waiting to mount the gate fence with a 6″ steel pole in the ground, add the GPS tracker, will weld the half-link and chain around the axel idea, and all the other ideas that were given. It is sickening to find the trailer stolen, have also added the security camera, motion detection to a monitored alarm station, and to my cell phone, the added idea is the tripwire connected to a bear warning system, such as the “Fith Ops Shotgun Perimeter Alarms”, I have told the neighbors if they should happen to hear a noise just what it might be. The city police have politely taken my information and provided me with a case number to give to the insurance company. I have not collected the insurance money because they raise the rates when you make a claim, as well as the deductible, etc. I will be perusal for additional ideas. I believe they take orders for trailers, drive around find one, take pictures of the trailer, then send the crew out to pick it up. Nothing is being done to stop the sale of stolen trailers. The only thing I have heard that works are to hold the criminals at gunpoint and call the cops saying your life is being threatened.
your right about Locks they only keep honest people honest. I generally use the biggest chain I can find, with a corresponding lock. I chain it to a tree, or to the bumper of my truck that i back up to the front of the trailer. When my three German shepherds bark at night I investigate right away with 1-2 of the dogs…. So far nothing has been stolen.
I’d like to add 1 more trailer theft deterrent by completely removing the roll up and down jack on a heavy or loaded trailer. Use a farm jack or hi-lift jack to raise and lower your trailer. Keep it locked up in the bed of your pick up truck with a synch cable through a whole or loop connected to the bed. Hope this will help someone out.
My buddy got a new trailer sweet rig. Spent a few weeks artistically repainting it to look rusted out. Replaced the plywood with older plywood. He also cut portions of the rails and made it look decrepit but with quick connectors to make it serviceable when needed. It looks 75 years old especially with 1 tire missing. During drivebys thieves keep driving.
Yep, Had my car trailer stolen from my unit compound on post just before we deployed back in 2004. Thought a lock on the coupler was enough, along with some chock blocks. Turned out the idits just pulled up and used a small ball and my safety chains to try and drive a way quick. They didn’t know about the chock blocks, as evidence of the drag marks and where the pole from my front wheel (removed) dug in the ground. Ultimately they got away though and I am out my car trailer….whish I had seen this before that!
Great article and advice. I back my trailer up against a brick wall, backed up to the house so two sides are tight to blockage. Drilled a hole in the concrete and installed a 1/2″ x 5″ eye bolt with heavy duty construction adhesive in the hole, pushing the eye bolt thru the adhesive. Chain my trailer frame to that, have the yellow hitch lock you showed, chain the safety chains to the frame and chain the outside, exposed wheel, to the frame and leaf spring both. And it sits I plain site of my neighbors. When using the trailer, I take the lock for the safety chains and lock the safety chains to my frame mounted hitch assembly where the safety chains clip on. Leave enough slack for turns! Not 100% but bad guys want quick, unseen and easy. This makes it take time and leaves bad guys visible. And it takes just about 1 minute extra to unlock all and hook up to use. Total of 4 locks using 2 keys – 3 pad locks and the hitch lock. Again, great advice. Lock it or lose it.
One step I’ve taken with my camper, the electronic brakes on it work by disengaging the brakes when vehicle power is applied. And my pigtail can be removed from the camper, i chuck the pigtail into the toolbox in my vehicle. When I rewired the camper a few years ago I changed the pinout to the camper side of the pigtail, even if they have a spare pigtail it most likely will not match my pinout at the camper frame, and color coding is useless to figure out what is what as I used all black cables wrapped in butyl tape. Another step I’ve taken on my camper (and any trailer with access hatch), especially on older trailers use a standard key for the hatches which is extremely easy to obtain. I bought barrel key style locks and made sure they didn’t have the key number stamped on them. These locks aren’t totally fool proof but as stated in the article, just trying to make mine less appealing than the next.
I like the log chain idea, sure they could cut through it but it’d make them think twice before stealing it. I was going to suggest, if you have more than one trailer you can tie them up together with the log chain ensuring you use a hefty lock to secure it. You can also lock your trailer to other heavy equipment which doesn’t have wheels. The key is to deter them from taking yours, because it would likely mean a headache to steal or they could get caught in the act. Thankfully our dogs tell us when anything screwy is happening around our place.
Trailer theft where I live in Oklahoma is rampant because the state doesn’t require tags or registration. Generally it’s a crime of opportunity, just don’t make it easy for them. Whenever mine is parked outside it’s near the house with a motion light nearby and the tongue is locked. I’ve caught two possible thieves on camera scoping out my trailer in the middle of the night but they left when the motion light came on.
A couple more tips… Setup a camera to capture their license plate! It’s not a bad idea is to have a simple inexpensive game camera attached to a tree where it’s not easy to spot, and point it at the front of the trailer where the truck would have to back into clear sight when hitching up. That way you can get the license plate # and have something valuable to turn over to the police. Some security cameras (not sure about game cameras though) have cloud uploading which means they can send the article over the internet where it’s impossible for the thief to go grab the camera after taking the trailer and walk away with the evidence. It’s important in my opinion to not only secure your stuff in multiple ways (make it miserably difficult to steal) but also catch the criminal on camera and make sure he gets caught. Any way to get the license plate of his truck is incredibly valuable information if you can somehow manage to capture it. Don’t just chain it to a tree or chain your axles to the wheels… be sure to loop your chains so the lock doesn’t snap when they drive off!! If you wrap chains in/through your wheel rims and chain them to the axles (which is a great idea!), or if you simply chain it to a tree, be sure to loop the ends of the chain so that if they should try to drive away, the stress won’t be on the lock to hold things together. Let your chain (preferably a grade 70 or better) take the pressure and abuse and your lock simply keeps your chain in place. I discovered the importance of this when I accidentally drove off with my own trailer not realizing I forgot to unlock it from the tree.
You can also run a chain through your wheels to the axle… This is a constant problem for ATVers as we often have to leave our Truck and trailer in a secluded area… Stick a trail camera in overlooking your vehicle… gives me peace of mind… The harder we make it for a thief the more likely they will move on to low hanging fruit… Thanks for the ideas….
Good advice. Unfortunate I had two trailers stolen from me. Both were duel axes. One was a 16’ drop gate and the other was an enclosed cargo trailer. They took my gate off the hinges. The sheriff office was basically useless. I gave them pictures and registration information and about a month later someone from the sheriff office called me to tell me they are still looking. I ask if the pictures were helpful. He said what pictures. I’m sure I will never see either one of them again.. Of course I would love to get them back but that’s just wishful thinking.
I have owned a bunch of trailers over the past 40 years. I have found one of the best ways to keep them from getting stolen is an unusual paint job, or with enclosed trailers, painting your name and contact info on the outside. Sure, they can easily paint over it, but most thieves do not want to go through that trouble.
One of the funniest things to watch is thieves trying to steal trailers not realizing that the owner has removed all of the Lugnuts, and as soon as they pull away the tires fall off and they’re left struggling to unhitch the trailer with no tires I have welded my initials onto my trailers Also since I have the privilege of owning a CNC machine for my business, I engrave my name into the bottom of the deck boards I’ve also engraved customer names for free when I have redecked trailers
I had that Masterlock, it broke off sooo easy when I rolled back a little when I put my truck in park. I now use a Proven Lock on my boat trailer, it was an investment but it’s a beast. However, my confidence in padlocks was forever lost when a thief stole my 24′ enclosed trailer in seconds with a cordless grinder and cutoff wheel in broad daylight.
A guy I knew got caught stealing, trying to steal the battery out of a pick up truck back in the 1970s..The men twith the truck caught him under the hood in that mall parking lot. They took him about 150 miles away, apparently that’s where they were headed all along, they took all of his clothes and one shoe,and put him out in the middle of nowhere down a dirt road at night in West Virginia.. at least it was summertime…
That yellow Reese hitch lock is pure garbage! I went camping one time and I had locked my trailer up when I went to go down to the lake and when I got back I couldn’t find the key anywhere so I took a sledgehammer and whacked it one time, not very hard and the thing fell apart, I was blown away! I’ll never buy another one of those again
I laugh when I see these so called anti-theft devices like hitch locks. All a thief has to do is hook the safety chains to their bumper and drive away. The number one theft deterrent in my opinion is to remove a couple tires on one side. I have a number of trailers. One since 1985. It stays hooked to my dually truck and is never accessible from any side unless a would be thief starts and moves my truck. I have a 24ft enclosed Haulmark 2 race car trailer full of things. It is stored in my back forty behind a 7 foot tall block wall and iron gate. The dually sits in front of that gate. Advice I give folks who have an enclosed trailer they cannot store out of sight is to remove a couple tires on one side but also be sure to use a 3 inch roller and black house paint to permanently mark the roof of the trailer with whatever information you want to be seen from above. Mine has the license number and VIN of the trailer painted on the white top from end to end. I did this in year 2005, It is still as visible now as it was in 05.
All locks are vulnerable (some are next to useless). Check out the Lock Picking Lawyer website to see just how easy it can be to quietly defeat most any lock (including tongue locks and wheel boots) with tools readily available online. Sure, most thieves are too lazy to learn how to do this and resort to brute force methods, but with a high value asset you just never know.
Good suggestions, I have always used a hitch pin lock, even more important now as I bought an expensive GenY hitch and I can prove I own the camper serial number but that hitch would be gone. Good idea on locking the propane tanks, those would be vulnerable on mine. Having a camera or 2 pointed at the driveway also helps. Also my camper sits at a bit of an angle on the driveway so I chalk all 4 wheels, to the point I have to back up a few inches to get them off when we go to leave. Hopefully all that deters someone from taking the entire trailer.
A few years ago I lost the keys to my 2 pin locks. I got on YouTube and learned how to steal my own trailer. Pin locks are super easy to snap open with a long steel tube. I bought a tube about 2″ internal diameter, approximately 3 feet long. Put tube over the locking part of the pin lock and “wedge push”. It snaps right off. I have a back injury and it was easy as pie. Ever since then, I’ve added extra strong chains and they are locked underneath each side of my rv. I’m not sure if it’s legal since “tow chains” are designed to break away but I don’t want my trailer or it’s contents Stollen so I’ve added the extra chains and padlocked them.
Great ideas but a few more. Apple air tag. $30 and can be tracked when any iphone nearby. While not a full blown gps it’s a high value $30 option. I also put quick chain link connects on end of my safety chain so when parked I can fully remove safety chains from trailer when not in use. I use three proven industries puck locks on my doors. I got them because one key, quality and key style. I use a removable jack. I rest the tongue of trailer on blocks of wood so the thief would have to pick up the 500lbs of tongue weight just to move. I’ve placed various identifications in areas of trailer to prove ownership with a glance of an eye as well as digging deeper if VIN removed
Run a chain through the holes in the rim and around the axle -> means the trailer can’t roll! Relatively a lot cheaper vs the coupler lock and pretty darn hard to defeat. Make sure to add at least one security lug nut to the wheel otherwise thieves could just remove the wheel and use your spare or one they bring – but even that requires a lot more time and planning.
I have the Proven Lock for my travel trailer and after three years, no issues. Even when at an RV park, I use it. My travel trailer is in a completely fenced-in area on the side of my house, Even my everyday utility trailer has a good lock system and as with the travel trailer, it is also in a locked fenced area behind my house.
Also the hitch receiver locks- most of those cam be broken off by sliding a piece of pipe over the end and prying, nearly all of them will snap right off. Theres a brand that uses your factory car key- i forget the brand- those are stronger. We did defeat one by drilling the lock, though it wasnt super fast. You can also use a grade 8 bolt and bolt the hitch on and then tac weld the nut to the bolt- prob the best bet, but harder to remove
Very timely article. I logging chain my little utility trailer to a power pole in my backyard. If you go to buy a trailer and the “owner” doesn’t have any proof of ownership, it’s probably stolen. Some states allow purchasers to get a new serial number and thereby register a trailer if they claim they can’t find the original serial number. This is done because there are so many older trailers where the serial number has either rusted away or was heavily painted over. Also there are many homemade rigs out there that never were registered. Be smart and listen to this guy.
I did all this at my trucking company and car dealership and they were still getting our trailers so we went ahead and put Samsungs smart tag on each trailer and a GPS tracker it worked soo much better and put people in jail. and the reason we did both is the gps batteries died within 3 weeks but the smart tags were good for up to 500 days. You would think with some much traffic at our businesses they would try it but they sure did