Drip edge is a crucial part of a properly installed roofing system, providing protection from water damage and extending over the eaves and into the roof. It is typically installed on the gable rake, aligning the leading edge of the first piece with the front edge of the drip edge installed on the eave. To install a drip edge, follow these steps:
- Align the leading (bottom) edge of the first piece on the gable rake with the front edge of the drip edge installed on the eave.
- Slightly open the hemmed edge to slide this piece over top of the installed piece on the eave. No cutting is needed for this piece.
- Follow the step-by-step instructions, tips, and videos for eaves, rakes, corners, and joints.
- Learn from a general contractor how to properly install drip edge and step flashing to protect your roof from water damage and ice dams.
- Follow the steps and tips for using ice and water membrane, drip.
Installing a drip edge on your roof is essential for preventing water damage and protecting your shingles. Different types of drip edges, clean cuts and bends, and retrofitting to an existing roof are discussed.
For existing water flow problems, apply directly over the existing drip edge. Standard drip-edge profiles include a turned-out bottom lip that directs water away from the fascia. The distance from the end of this lip to the face of the drip edge should be about 12 inches apart.
Soil moisture conditions need to be confirmed by the soil scientist of record before beginning clearing and system installation. Secure the drip edge by nailing it down using roofing nails, spaced about 12 inches apart.
📹 Installing Drip Edge On Your Roof!
How far down should drip edge go?
Silva suggests installing a drip edge 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches away from the fascia board on your roof to prevent water from seeping back into the fascia. This will prevent surface tension and allow water to drop freely. The shingles should extend far enough over the drip edge, ideally a finger’s width or 3/8 to 1/2 inch, to direct water directly into the gutter system. Without the overhang, water can draw back under the shingles and into the roof decking, causing extensive damage over time. Additionally, incorrect fastening, such as not spacing the nails securing the drip edge, can compromise the water barrier over time.
How to correctly install drip edge?
To install a drip edge on a roof, start at the eaves and align it with the roof’s edge. Secure the edge using roofing nails or screws, spaced according to manufacturer’s recommendations. Overlap the sections with a two or three-inch overlap to prevent water seeping and provide a continuous barrier. If needed, cut and shape the drip edge to fit around the corners and angles of the roof using tin snips or a suitable cutting tool. This process ensures a continuous barrier and prevents water seepage.
Should there be a gap between drip edge and fascia?
A small gap between the drip edge and fascia is ideal for proper water drainage and ventilation, but it should be minimal to prevent water infiltration and damage. Gutters should be securely attached to the fascia board for stability and functionality. Loose or sagging gutters can lead to water overflow, fascia damage, and structural issues. Regular inspection and maintenance of gutter attachment points are essential to prevent these issues.
Do you put fascia on before drip edge?
Drip edges are crucial for roofs to prevent water damage and maintain their appearance. They create a drainage gap between the drip edge and the fascia board, improving water flow and protecting the roof from potential water damage. Drip edges also deter pests from accessing the space between the fascia board and a deck, protecting shingles from water damage, pushing water away from the fascia, helping gutters move water away from the house, shielding exposed areas from insect and pest infestation, and protecting the edge of a deck from water during rainstorms.
They also protect the underlying roofline from winter damage, strong winds, and wind-blown rain. Drip edges also shield the wood and promote water-shedding, preventing shifts between a deck and fascia boards. In summary, proper placement of drip edges not only preserves the appearance of the roof but also enhances the lifespan and effectiveness of roofing materials and the roof.
Do you overlap drip edge?
To install a Type C drip edge, install a furring strip on the vertical surface of the house just beneath the roof’s edge. This strip keeps the lower flange further from the home’s siding, keeping water away from the home. Install drip edges on the eaves first, aligning them so water will drip into the gutters. Secure the drip edge on the roof using roofing nails, nailing high up on the edge so shingles cover the nails. Ideally, nail about every 12 inches, and avoid 16 inches or more between nails.
When reaching a corner where an eave and rake edge meet, make a cut to ensure a proper fit. Place the drip edge on the rake edge, mark where the drip edge begins to overhang, and cut the entire drip edge by the second mark. Cut out the topmost portion of the drip edge by the first mark, then make a perpendicular cut to remove a square of the drip edge.
Install the drip edge as normal, then bend in the flap of the drip edge to form a corner. Complete this corner when installing the drip edges on the rakes. Once the eaves are covered with a drip edge, install the underlayment, which should be over the drip edge on the eaves but under the rakes.
Should drip edge be nailed down?
To install a Type C drip edge, install a furring strip on the vertical surface of the house just beneath the roof’s edge. This strip keeps the lower flange further from the home’s siding, keeping water away from the home. Install drip edges on the eaves first, aligning them so water will drip into the gutters. Secure the drip edge on the roof using roofing nails, nailing high up on the edge so shingles cover the nails. Ideally, nail about every 12 inches, and avoid 16 inches or more between nails.
When reaching a corner where an eave and rake edge meet, make a cut to ensure a proper fit. Place the drip edge on the rake edge, mark where the drip edge begins to overhang, and cut the entire drip edge by the second mark. Cut out the topmost portion of the drip edge by the first mark, then make a perpendicular cut to remove a square of the drip edge.
Install the drip edge as normal, then bend in the flap of the drip edge to form a corner. Complete this corner when installing the drip edges on the rakes. Once the eaves are covered with a drip edge, install the underlayment, which should be over the drip edge on the eaves but under the rakes.
Does roofing felt go over or under the drip edge?
To install a drip edge in a eave, follow these steps:
- Place the drip edge on the rake edge and mark where it begins to overhang.
- Cut the entire drip edge by the second mark, ensuring it only hangs past the edge by an inch.
- Cut out the topmost portion of the drip edge by the first mark and make a perpendicular cut to remove a square.
- Install the drip edge as normal, then bend in the flap of the drip edge to form a corner.
- Once the eaves are covered with a drip edge, install the underlayment, which should be over the eaves but under the rakes.
- Install the drip edge as normal, then proceed to install the underlayment.
Does drip edge need sealant?
In order to affix a drip edge, it is necessary to secure it at intervals of between 12 and 18 inches along the eaves and gable ends. It is then necessary to apply a roofing sealant along the top edge in order to create a watertight seal. The selected roofing material should be installed over the drip edge, in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is important to avoid common mistakes such as inadequate overhang and improper alignment, as these can lead to water seepage.
What is the nailing pattern for drip edge?
In order to install a drip edge on a roof deck, it is necessary to use 12-gage roofing nails, with a spacing of 8-10 inches on center and a distance of 1-½ to 3 inches from the sheathing edge. It is recommended that adjacent drip edge pieces be lapped by a distance of two inches, and that asphalt shingles be allowed to overhang the edge by a distance of between one-quarter and three-quarters of an inch.
Do you use screws or nails for drip edge?
To install a Type C drip edge, install a furring strip on the vertical surface of the house just beneath the roof’s edge. This strip keeps the lower flange further from the home’s siding, keeping water away from the home. Install drip edges on the eaves first, aligning them so water will drip into the gutters. Secure the drip edge on the roof using roofing nails, nailing high up on the edge so shingles cover the nails. Ideally, nail about every 12 inches, and avoid 16 inches or more between nails.
When reaching a corner where an eave and rake edge meet, make a cut to ensure a proper fit. Place the drip edge on the rake edge, mark where the drip edge begins to overhang, and cut the entire drip edge by the second mark. Cut out the topmost portion of the drip edge by the first mark, then make a perpendicular cut to remove a square of the drip edge.
Install the drip edge as normal, then bend in the flap of the drip edge to form a corner. Complete this corner when installing the drip edges on the rakes. Once the eaves are covered with a drip edge, install the underlayment, which should be over the drip edge on the eaves but under the rakes.
📹 Drip Edge and Membrane
Install drip edge metal to the eaves beginning at the back of the house, working toward the most visible section of roof, to avoid …
Great article with clear instructions and articletaping! For small repair jobs, my husband likes to think he is handy. With your help, now I fix things myself before he gets his hands on them (and before he messes it up more). If only other youtubers would watch your articles to see how to create an excellent presentation. (No, I’m not Paul Ricalde’s mom.)
thank you so much, Paul for all the awesome articles and taking time to create such articles to assist folks with doing their own home repairs. I’ve always done the plumbing and electrical work on my house but roofing repair is a new adventure. will definitely use your tips to assist me. I subbed your wonderful website. Peace.
I thought the whole point of a drip edge was to website the rain down INTO a gutter, not behind the gutter down the flat side of the fascia boards. The way you are installing the drip edge is exactly how it was installed on my house, lying flat against the fascia boards BEHIND the gutter, which caused major rotting of all of the fascia boards. I just removed the old gutter and all of the damaged fascia boards on the back of my house entirely by myself and just finished installing the new fascia boards. You can bet my new drip edge will not be installed like the old one was.
The drip edge with the extended flange is known in the business as “F” style drip edge, and typically they come in common sizes such as 4 1/2″ and 5 1/2″ . You”l need this style if you want your leading edge to protrude far enough to drip into say, an eave gutter without leaving a shingle overhang so long that it droops down. Typically, this kind is only used on eaves. Using them on rakes is also acceptable, but more difficult to make look good as the eave drip meets the rake drip at the corner. The other, simpler L-shaped drip edge is known as “C” style, and they can come in common sizes ranging from 3 1/2″ to 5 1/2″, as well as some other sizes. These are perfectly acceptable to use on rake edges, and even on eave edges where you require a larger exposure to flash off a gutter. Be mindful that it is VERY important to make sure your drip edge covers the top lip(the one that touches the fascia board) of the gutter as much as is possible. This will direct all flowing water right into the gutter and give it little opportunity to get into the fascia board or soffit. There is also another drip edge known as gravel stop that is commonly used on flat roofs to keep water contained, disallowing it to flow over the rake edge. I don’t like this guy’s “inside cut”. Doing that will leave open a square that remains unflashed in the corner at a place like the base of the valley, a place where you really want that flashing to be. On that cut, I also disapprove of leaving the edges square. They are sharp and might eventually poke in to the shingles or underlayment beneath as the years progress and fasteners may or may not loosen themselves.
Thank you for your article, I just had my roof done by Olympic Roofing in kisssimme fl, and after all the inspection was done, i know something is not right, the drip edge is not flush to the fascia, we had some wind the other day and you could hear some noise coming from the drip edge. i could take some pictues if you like and you could give me your opinion. Anyway thank you great article
Can you please help? We just had a CertainTeed roof installed and the roofer did not properly install the drip guard. Instead of going under a decorative piece on the gable, they just cut it off! Some areas do not lay flat against the siding. We called them repeated and they promised to come out and repair or replace it – but yesterday they finally called and said the two owners have parted ways and they have no one t repair it. The good news is that we have never paid them – the bad news is we do not know who to call to get this work done! We live in St. Charles, Mo. Thank you for any information you can provide!
My drip edge was done incorrectly. Whomever installed it last didnt bend the corners like you did… as a matter of fact they didn’t bend corners at all… just two sheets of drip edge that meet in the corner… Whats happened over time is that the corners have begun to separate a bit… and I constantly have wasps that make their nests in the gaps between the shingles and wood… So needless to say… i have the next few weekends booked repairing corners on a two story home… =(
Thanks for the article. I’m getting ready to replace the drip edge on my flat patio roof. Just that part. My patio is curved so knowing how to make those cuts you showed will allow me to get that drip edge nice and snug against the facia. I wasn’t clear about the tape you mentioned though. I guess I’ll have to ask about that. It’s some kind of silver tape because they previously put that on the existing drip edge.
I got here looking to confirm it wouldn’t be entirely crazy to run self-adhesive membrane underlayment on eaves either fully over fascia, to the bottom/narrow edge, or at least to the elevation where the gutter will terminate. The only other (forum) link, c. 2011, that I’ve gone through is about evenly split between drip-edge-first and drip-edge-after membrane, but they’re arguing over ice-damming which isn’t a concern so far in Honolulu, where I am. We get crappy lumber shipped here, so in part I’d do this to cover knots and avoid ongoing paint-related maintenance for any exposed wood. I like the idea that the membrane would seal against the fasteners used by the gutter-hanger when that time comes, too. So – any big reasons NOT to fully wrap the fascia? (I don’t honestly have a plan to cover it against UV damage, but that could be just paint, maybe factory-coated flashing that would run behind the gutter…)
Thanks for this! Like others, am going with a full membrane on my roof to protect from Hurricanes. It will simply never, ever leak, but of course the cost will be a bit higher. Only concern is re-roofing 25 years from now, as the membrane will be one with the decking, but will cross that bridge when I get there =)
Would you mind doing a little article treatise on the rake edge of a hot roof (hot roof includes ventilation strategy above deepest roof deck layer)? So to clarify the detail from interior to exterior would be: closed cell spray foam, roof decking, peel and stick membrane (or zip w/ liquid flash), 2-3 layers of XPS foam seams staggered, furring strips, 2nd roof deck layer, 2 layers of tar paper, shingles, sky. How do you cover the rake edge of a hot roof is basically my question. Thanks